1970 GTO Version 3.0

[andrewb70]

Eventually all of this crap will make it on the car...LOL

In addition to purchasing the turbo from Work, I also ordered the necessary other bits. I chose the Turbosmart 45mm wastewater and their Raceport BOV.











Also, the Hooker cast single turbo manifold kit finally showed up after being on backorder for months. Not much to see here...



Andrew

[redmanf1]

A lot of nice items..



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[CarlC]

However, I did receive another important part of the puzzle. I still plan to use the Rick's RestoMod tank, but with the extra fueling demands of the turbo engine, a single ZL1 Camaro pump module was not going to cut it. I was on the Deatchworks website, and I saw their new dual pump drop-in module for the 5th gen Camaro.

Lots of mods to make this setup work right in Pro-Touring applications. The lower reservoir as supplied by DW is a non-GM knockoff with jet pumps that are woefully inadequate. With a liquid level below the top of the reservoir, hence only the jet pumps can fill it, at 60psi max output the reservoir runs dry in 10.7 seconds. It was swapped for a Gen5 ZL1 reservoir/jet pump setup, and all is well under all reasonable conditions.

[andrewb70]

Lots of mods to make this setup work right in Pro-Touring applications. The lower reservoir as supplied by DW is a non-GM knockoff with jet pumps that are woefully inadequate. With a liquid level below the top of the reservoir, hence only the jet pumps can fill it, at 60psi max output the reservoir runs dry in 10.7 seconds. It was swapped for a Gen5 ZL1 reservoir/jet pump setup, and all is well under all reasonable conditions.

Carl,

I can't thank you enough for doing all the work on this! If anyone reading this is at a point where decisions have to be made about fuel system components, I highly recommend getting in touch with Carl and discussing your needs.

Andrew

[Josh@Ridetech]

Very cool, Andrew!

[andrewb70]

Very cool, Andrew!

Thanks Josh! Glad you're doing well.

Since it is winter and most vendors seem to be back ordered on so many parts, all I can do is plan ahead as much as possible and order parts as early as I can. That said, yesterday I was making a list of all the fittings and hoses that I will need for not only the fuel system, but also plumbing the turbo for oil. Since I am using a journal bearing turbo, having a steady supply of clean oil is mandatory, but the oil drain is just as important.

Here is a picture that my buddy TJ sent me. He has a 67 Chevelle and he is also doing a turbo build, using the Holley engine mounts and the 302-3 oil pan.



While Holley was nice enough to include two ports in the oil pan for oil drain back, it seems that the placement of these ports is not optimal when the pan is being used in a GM A-body. It looks like there is room in the picture, but TJ said there is barely 3/4" clearance between the oil drain port and the front crossmember. Also, access to the port is limited. The engine mounts are right there and all of it will be buried deep under the passenger side exhaust manifold.

The turbo will be a pretty good ways away, and the path of the oil drain would be quite torturous. TJ turned me on to this modified front cover that is being sold by ICT billet.








I ordered it yesterday and might install it this weekend. Of course, this means that the balancer hub has to come off...again...

Andrew

[andrewb70]

The ICT modded front cover arrived and it looks as advertised.






Andrew

[Rick Dorion]

It's so great to have these choices available. Jumping back to your coilover install (I'm in the midst of the same on my Bel Air) did you apply any anti-seize on the shock body threads? The directions are excellent but of the 'thread everything together' mode. Only want to do this once. Thanks for the documentation of your projects, Andrew!

[andrewb70]

It's so great to have these choices available. Jumping back to your coilover install (I'm in the midst of the same on my Bel Air) did you apply any anti-seize on the shock body threads? The directions are excellent but of the 'thread everything together' mode. Only want to do this once. Thanks for the documentation of your projects, Andrew!

Yes, I applied antisieze liberally to the threads of the coil overs.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

As mentioned a while back, I am using the Holley Hooker cast turbo manifold kit. The main reason is for the simplicity of the layout and the durability that the cast iron parts offer. The kit is also relatively inexpensive, but it does have some drawbacks.

The main one is that the "as cast" manifolds are pretty ugly, and I can only imagine what they will look like after a short time of driving. So I made the decision to use Cerakote to coat them at home. Cerakote offers their "C" coating which is an air dry product and many colors are rated to 1800 degrees. While I wait for my starter kit from Cerakote, I decided to begin the prep work on the manifolds.

I watched a bunch of videos on applying Cerakote, and as always, the end result depends highly on the prep work (if anyone has any pointer, please chime in). The general consensus is that parts need to be degreased, baked, blasted, baked again.

So today I got the process rolling because It was 65 degrees here in Kansas City. The manifolds come from Holley well bagged but were covered in oil. I get why this is done, but they were soaked. First thing was to see how they fit in my 6 burner Weber. No issues!



The second step was to get them hosed down with acetone to get as much of the oil off at possible.



They actually looked a lot better after the de-greasing process.



Then I fired up the Weber and put the manifolds inside.



With all 6 burners going the temperature came up fast and eventually hit 600 degrees. I kept them in there for about 45 minutes when I ran out of propane.



I let it all cool down for a couple of hours and this was the result.



They look 100 times better already. I was careful not to touch them with my bare hands to keep hand oils off of them. On Saturday I am visiting a local customer who was gracious enough to let me use his blast cabinet.

Andrew

[Motown 454]

They do look a lot better already. I'm looking forward to seeing t he process.

[andrewb70]

One of my local customers, Vic, is quite the fabricator. So I knew he was the man to ask for help with installing the Volt fans to my old radiator. I went to visit him and before I knew it he was whittling out new stand offs to mount the fans.



This is one of them. More details will be forthcoming once he makes some more progress.



Vic also has a media blaster and he was kind enough to let me use his cabinet. I proceeded to blast the Hooker turbo manifolds with some course media. We used Black Diamond from Northern Tools.



I also took my front and valley covers with me, and after de-burring the edges of both, I blasted them as well.



This is the surface prep that Cerakote recommends for their coatings.



We had another 65 degree day (after it snowed 8" 5 days ago), so I fired up the Weber again for another 500 degree bake. The manifolds took on a really cool bronze color, so I am definitely going to coat them with the burnt bronze color.



The aluminum castings cool clean and ready for coating.



And just because...



Andrew

[wfo guy]

Andrew, just so you know, Tractor supply sells 50 lb. bags of black beauty (coal slag) for around $9. My local store stocks coarse and medium. I would prefer fine but it's not available. I still have a Hooker Header belt buckle from the 70's or 60's. I don't remember when I purchased it.

[andrewb70]

Andrew, just so you know, Tractor supply sells 50 lb. bags of black beauty (coal slag) for around $9. My local store stocks coarse and medium. I would prefer fine but it's not available. I still have a Hooker Header belt buckle from the 70's or 60's. I don't remember when I purchased it.

Thanks for the tip. The Black Diamond from Northern Tool was $11 for. 50 pound bag. It worked great. I'm using course because that's what Cerakote to use.

Andrew

[Motown 454]

They look good for coating, I'm looking forward to see them and what you think of the process.

[andrewb70]

With the power levels that I hope to be making, I no longer felt that my 12 bolt was adequate. I shopped around and settled on Quick Performance from Aimes, Iowa. Their sales person was great on the phone and went over every detail. So I placed my order for one of their custom 9" rear ends.

I just received the housing with the rest to follow. I got mine with the small GM ends so I can retain my 4th Gen Camaro brakes. It is also 1" narrower overall, which will allow me to retain my wheels and run the 305/40-18 drag radials that I want to run.



The housing is built out of extra thick material, has a back brace (this might mess up the ridetech sway bar mounts...deal with that later), has a fill and drain port, etc...



The rubber bushings will be replaced with the R-joints that I already installed in the 12 bolt.



If anyone is interested in my 12 bolt, please feel free to reach out.

Andrew

[Motown 454]

That looks really stout, with those R joints it should kick up the handling a notch.

[andrewb70]

Not sure why these images are rotated, but you get the idea.
Got a Mighty Mouse catch can, set up for boost.



I love global trade. This is a Pierburg CWA150 pump that I got from Tecomotive in Germany. Four days to my door. Amazing!



The CWA150 is a high pressure version of the CWA100 and outflows many of the available pumps on the market. It is also said to be very quiet and will be pwm controlled through the Holley Dominator.



It should fit perfectly on the Volt fan shroud. The little cradle at the bottom, between the fans used to house a similar water pump on the Volt.



Andrew

[Way2qwk4u]

Yup that should fit good there. Hope it warms up soon so we can get back to driving and working on the cars.

[qnitro]

Looks great, thanks for hooking my TA up