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    Page 13 of 15 FirstFirst ... 3 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 LastLast
    Results 241 to 260 of 289
    1. #241
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,673
      Country Flag: United States
      I have been making slow progress with the wiring. Mostly looking at things and planning things. The goal is to make the wiring as tidy as possible, while still being accessible for service. I also don't want any wires to be randomly hanging off the engine, so everything that goes to the engine must come through the EFI harness.

      This is the hexapus (if that is not a word, it should be) on the driver's side of the Terminator X harness. It extends forward and contains the CTS, cam sensor, TPS, IAC, fuel pressure, and MAT sensor plugs. CTS, MAT, and cam sensors are workable. The TPS and IAC need to be eliminated, and the fuel pressure needs to be stripped out and moved all the way to the rear of the engine. I also need to add the connector for the alternator for the L and S terminals, and route them all the way through into the passenger compartment.



      Recently, I was looking through the Delphi (Aptive) catalog and I spotted a few little items that I had never really paid much attention to.

      This is a typical Metripack 150 connector. This particular one is for the cam sensor. The white clip is called a TPA (terminal position assurance).



      The part pictured below is also a TPA, but it is called a conduit TPA. It serves the same function as a regular TPA, but it has an added enclosure to protect the exposed wires after they exit the connector. I am going to use 4:1 heat shrink tubing to completely seal off some of the more sensitive connectors.



      This is the MAP sensor, also with the conduit TPA.



      There is a lot happening on the passenger side in terms of wiring. There are the injectors and the coils, and also the shielded cable for the DBW throttle body and three wires for the MAP sensor. I am waiting on some supplies to arrive before I get things fully sorted here.



      I also mocked up the Holley mid-mount main casting. This is the bracket that holds all of the accessories in place. I wanted to see what kind of room I have for routing parts of the harness.



      There is a nice path and clearance for the cam sensor.



      I also mocked up the shaker scoop assembly. Of course with it in place, the wiring is barely visible, but I know it will be good, even if it is not clearly visible.



      The last area of concern is the clearance between the intake tube and the AC compressor. I think it will be a tight fit, based on the pictures of a fully assembled mid-mount. If there is interference, I will deal with that later.



      That's all for now.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    2. #242
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      Dallas, TX
      Posts
      24
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking good, Andrew

    3. #243
      Join Date
      Jul 2015
      Location
      KY
      Posts
      49
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking good.

    4. #244
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      222
      Great updates with lots of photos and detailed explanations. Well done!

    5. #245
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Norfolk, VA
      Posts
      530
      Country Flag: United States
      Is it relatively easy to swap out the conduit TPA without de-pinning the connector?
      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    6. #246
      Join Date
      Apr 2021
      Posts
      37
      Country Flag: Canada
      Looks great! I love the intake/air cleaner combination

    7. #247
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,673
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Larry R View Post
      Looking good, Andrew
      Quote Originally Posted by Way2qwk4u View Post
      Looking good.
      Quote Originally Posted by Peanut1959 View Post
      Great updates with lots of photos and detailed explanations. Well done!
      Quote Originally Posted by FLYNAVY53 View Post
      Is it relatively easy to swap out the conduit TPA without de-pinning the connector?
      Quote Originally Posted by lsx70 View Post
      Looks great! I love the intake/air cleaner combination
      Thanks everyone!

      The conduit TPA just slips in place just like a regular TPA. You don't have to take the terminals out.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    8. #248
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,673
      Country Flag: United States
      Before making any cuts to the harness, I needed to establish its best position relative to the engine. Since the hole for the harness is offset to the driver's side slightly, it made sense that the harness needs to come from that direction.



      The determining factor was also the crank sensor lead, which I really don't want to modify, because it is a shielded cable. I also used a bolt/stud that I had left over from doing the Cougar. I used a P clamp on it to keep the knock sensor out of the way of the headers.



      I unwrapped the driver's side hexapus. The TPS and the IAC are not needed, but I may repurpose two of them for the alternator L and S terminals.



      Summit Racing had some Deutsche connectors and terminals in stock. These are going to replace the coil harness connectors and the injector connector. There will be an ODD and EVEN injector connector and a ODD and EVEN coil connector.



      I also decided that I was going to build my own injector harness. The Holley one was OK, but I can make it better.





      I played around with different routing paths.



      Ultimately I decided that the injectors should run along with the coil sub harness.



      It's all a bit of a mess still, but this is the basic layout. The fuel rails have little tabs on them with holes, which are designed to hold harness clips. I bought an assortment of harness clips, which you can see on the rails.



      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    9. #249
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,673
      Country Flag: United States
      This is my current thinking to tuck away the coil and the injector connectors. There is enough room at the back of the heads to attach little brackets and hang the connectors there. This will tuck them out of sight, but also make them fairly accessible for service. I have more parts on the way from wirecare.com to make it all work.





      I mocked up the alternator, just to see how it fits and see how the wiring for it has to be routed. The alternator need two wires, and instead of adding wires to the harness, I will repurpose two of the unused IAC wires.



      I also mocked up the AC compressor, which needs to have a wire added for it. I am hesitant to use one of the other IAC wires, because they are 20 gauge and that may not be enough for the compressor.



      I also mocked up some P-clamps to hold the DBW and the MAP sensor wires. I am still debating if I like this or not. I also have some small nylon P-clamps which I might try in that location.



      I also picked up a 5th Gen Camaro starter. I like it because it has mounting tabs for a heat shield and uses a plug for the solenoid, instead of a ring terminal. The starter wire will run along with the crank sensor wire.



      I also got a couple of Rife sensors for the coolant and air temps. These are supposed to be faster reacting than regular sensors.





      Rife is owned by The Brake Man brakes, and I saw they have a very cleverly designed line lock solenoid. It accepts both SAE double flare connections or AN-3, and also comes with a tidy Deutsche connector.



      My buddy Tom is flying in from Alabama this weekend and our big project is to bolt on all of the ridetech components. Wish us luck!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her


    10. #250
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,027
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post


      I really like that, very slick design. I've been thinking about adding one to my car too.


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    11. #251
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Norfolk, VA
      Posts
      530
      Country Flag: United States
      Andrew, just curious as I review your thread....why did you chose to stick with the stock style intake and TB set up and then fabricate your shaker/airbox arrangement as you did as opposed to using one of the Holley carb style intakes and 4150 throttle bodies or even the Delmo Speed throttle body adapter that will allow you to mount the factory DBW throttle body to a carb style intake and then build your air box and shaker on top of that?

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      I'm just curious if you had a reason to stick with the stock style intake from a performance/tuning/drivability standpoint. Your tuning on the Suburban has me convinced to accelerate my plans to swap the '64 to an LS, and look and a multi port set up but Id really like to retain vintage intake/air cleaner look.
      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    12. #252
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,673
      Country Flag: United States
      Keep in mind that I did the LS swap 13 years ago and there was no Holley EFI solution at that time. I was using the OEM GMPP harness and ECU kit which uses a MAF sensor. It is nearly impossible to have a MAF sensor with a single plane intake set-up above.

      I also like the torque that a stock intake provides compared to the single plane.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    13. #253
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Norfolk, VA
      Posts
      530
      Country Flag: United States
      Fair enough, thanks!!
      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    14. #254
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,673
      Country Flag: United States
      Friday evening my friend Tom flew in from Alabama to help me with the installation of the complete ridetech suspension kit. Since the fuel tank was being replaced anyway, we figured it would be a good idea to get it out of the way to make working on the rear suspension easier. Of course, some knucklehead parked the car with about half a tank of gas in it still.

      Having the battery in the trunk and having an access panel to the top of the tank made this a lot easier. This allowed us to quickly hotwire the pump to the battery and start draining the tank.



      We followed all safety precautions and used an approved container to hold the fuel and then transferred it to other vehicles in the driveway, which thankfully had room in their tanks.



      With the tank removed, it was a lot easier to get at the rear suspension components and the first thing to be removed were the 20 year old Hal shocks (who remembers those?). Surprisingly they were still charged up well and not leaking at all.



      Next up was removing the springs and the adjustable lower spring mounts that I installed back in 2008.



      Next up was installing the upper coilover mount. ridetech provides a nice bracket that bolts to where the old upper shock mount used to be. The bracket needs to be oriented so the mount is offset towards the center of the car and the bolts should go in from the bottom, with the nuts on top. Obviously I had the bolts going the other way in this picture, but it was changed later on when I discovered that the bolts that holds the shock at the top will hit the bolts holding the top mount.



      More to come...

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    15. #255
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,673
      Country Flag: United States
      While I was working under the car, my helpers were encouraging me the whole time.



      After carefully reading the ridetech instructions, Tom and Ron helped with assembling the rear coilovers.





      Instead of using torrington thrust washers, ridetech uses these really slick delrin washers at both ends of the spring. I was a little skeptical at first, but they work awesome. Turning the adjustment collars was super easy.



      The lower coilover bracket uses the existing hole that used to hold the old shock mount, then it is also captured by the bolt that fastens the lower control arm, and there is a third bolt above the old shock mount location. This hole needs to be drilled. Everything went together as it should.



      More to come...

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    16. #256
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,673
      Country Flag: United States
      Please ignore those ugly fuel lines. I don't know what I was thinking when I did all that. I promise it all seemed like a good idea at the time. It's all going away...

      The focus is on replacing the upper rubber bushings on the axle housing, with new ridetech R-joint bushings.



      ridetech offers a tool that serves as both the bushing removal and installation tool. Having an impact gun for this is a must, as it made this job really simple and clean. Once the tool was lined up, the old bushings just popped out.



      Here is the Ridetech tool setup to install the new R-joints. There is very little room on the driver's side bushing as it is very close to the diff housing. Ridetech cleverly designed the tool with relief cuts to clear the diff housing, so the rod is aligned square.



      The bushing is installed about halfway in this picture. It needs to be driven in all the way to the little shoulder on the R-joint.



      The frame side joint of the new control arms was a bolt in deal. We adjusted the length of the upper control arms to match the length of the old control arms, to keep the pinion angle the same and locate the rear axle in the same location laterally.



      Finally, the arms were bolted to the new R-joints in the axle housing.



      More to come...

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    17. #257
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,673
      Country Flag: United States
      With the control arms bolted up (I didn't take any pictures of the lower arms being installed, because it was a remove and replace procedure), it was time to install the coilover shock in its place. The rebound adjustment knob is located at the top and I positioned it so it faced the center of the car. I should be able to reach it with the car on the ground. Some have suggested mounting the coilover so the adjuster is at the bottom, but then that makes adjusting the spring collars more challenging. Plus, I like the way it looks this way...



      The process was repeated on the passenger side, which wrapped up the installation in the rear.



      My helpers approved.



      That is all for now...

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    18. #258
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,410
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow that looks like a nice set up and easy to put in. Big difference from the Leaf spring cars. Very productive weekend.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    19. #259
      Join Date
      Sep 2017
      Posts
      423
      Country Flag: United States
      Your help looks exactly like mine lol.
      Keep it up killer car.
      Someday you'll tune mine lol
      Jason
      TANKMASTERJ

    20. #260
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Norfolk, VA
      Posts
      530
      Country Flag: United States
      Andrew, going back to your fuel system set up, is the ZL1 pump module you plan on using part #19303293?

      Additionally, am I correct that using that module, (along with the Vapor works #PWZL13B) completely eliminates the need for even an external in-line filter?

      Lastly, what size line are you planning on running to the front of the car?

      Thanks,
      Greg
      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

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