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    Results 1 to 13 of 13
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      eden ga
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      Country Flag: United States

      Corvette painting

      What are the tricks and materials I need to paint my corvette. I got a 75 I am wanting to paint. It is partially stripped. What’s the process to a diy vette paint job.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
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      Answering this is like asking how to do surgery lol to get an answer maybe provide more info such as pics showing condition , budget ... etc etc
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
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      eden ga
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      Quote Originally Posted by raustinss View Post
      Answering this is like asking how to do surgery lol to get an answer maybe provide more info such as pics showing condition , budget ... etc etc
      I am painting it my self and want to know is there some special materials I need like sealer primer ect to paint this car. Pics is not gonna tell anyone what kind of materials I need to buy. I fly planes for a living and if you ask me how to fly it I won’t ask you what kind of plane or a pic of it.lol

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
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      Country Flag: Canada
      Well I do know a cessa is far different then a 777. The amount of questions is alot , condition of fiberglass, stripped to primer, stripped to gel coat, is the car apart is the car on a rotisserie, does the car need any body work , what color and type of paint do you want a basic black is way cheaper then a metallic white, is the car going to be a basic driver or race car . Im not trying to be rude or short but some more info would most certainly help any body and paint experts . As yes there would need to he different materials purchased obviously if the car needs fiberglass work, or new primer etc Hope this helps
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
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      eden ga
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      The car is a drive not keeping in in a garage or anything like that. It’s not stripped to gel just scuffed to paint. Needs a little floating to make it better. Not looking for a million dollar car it’s a 3500$ project that I am gonna daily drive to work

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
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      Ok perfect now were getting somewhere lol are you changing the color , has the car already been painted once or is it original paint . Also whats the condition of the bumpers is the paint flaking off ?
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      645
      I would go over to CorvetteForums.com and ask the same question. Bunch of really good Corvette guys over there.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,498
      Country Flag: United States
      Quality epoxy primer followed by a quality poly primer, block, 2k primer, block, sealer, basecoat, clear.

      I use all SPI products except Z-Chrome Rust Defender poly primer and PPG DBC basecoat.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      322
      Country Flag: United States
      Don's advice is the right way to do it for sure, but that's further than I'd want to go on a $3500 car. For low budget drivers, I like Summit's paint line. Depending on the condition of your scuffed paint, if you're doing a color change, etc, you may or may not need primer/sealer prior to color. I like their single stage urethanes for DIY jobs. Single stage = less coats (vs base/clear), so less opportunity for trash to get into your wet paint if you're painting outside or in a garage. If you pick a non-metallic color it's easy to color sand and buff. Make sure you wear a legit respirator any time you're spraying "real" car paint.

      Link to paint: https://www.summitracing.com/search?...single%20stage

      I painted this car in a garage with Summit paint. I had about $250 into the paint and primer. Even with a basic paint gun, water separator, respirator, body filler, sand paper, blocks, etc, I was into it for well under $500 total. I've had plenty of cars with nicer paint, but it gets to the point where you're afraid to drive them.

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      - Ryan

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      eden ga
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      672
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      Quote Originally Posted by stab6902 View Post
      Don's advice is the right way to do it for sure, but that's further than I'd want to go on a $3500 car. For low budget drivers, I like Summit's paint line. Depending on the condition of your scuffed paint, if you're doing a color change, etc, you may or may not need primer/sealer prior to color. I like their single stage urethanes for DIY jobs. Single stage = less coats (vs base/clear), so less opportunity for trash to get into your wet paint if you're painting outside or in a garage. If you pick a non-metallic color it's easy to color sand and buff. Make sure you wear a legit respirator any time you're spraying "real" car paint.

      Link to paint: https://www.summitracing.com/search?...single%20stage

      I painted this car in a garage with Summit paint. I had about $250 into the paint and primer. Even with a basic paint gun, water separator, respirator, body filler, sand paper, blocks, etc, I was into it for well under $500 total. I've had plenty of cars with nicer paint, but it gets to the point where you're afraid to drive them.

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      this is the info I am looking for I have a car that is top notch and scared to drive it. So want a driver quality paint but also want something that will hold up in the weather for a while.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      322
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 5spd540 View Post
      this is the info I am looking for I have a car that is top notch and scared to drive it. So want a driver quality paint but also want something that will hold up in the weather for a while.
      It's held up well for the past 4 years for me. It may chip slightly easier than the high dollar paint, or maybe I just notice more chips since it gets driven more frequently. As long as you stick with catalyzed (2 component) automotive grade paint (Summit, Kirker, Eastwood, etc) durability should be okay. I'm sure it gets a incrementally better as you move up in quality/price.
      - Ryan

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      Your car looks really good! I like the color too!

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      322
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the kind words. The paint and body work was a very time consuming but rewarding project. In retrospect, I kind of wish I would have taken the usual advice to pay more for a nicer car to start with.
      - Ryan





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