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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2020
      Posts
      37
      Country Flag: Canada

      1972 Buick Turbo LS Pro Touring - Garage Made

      ***Posted this in the "New Member" section too but thought I would put it here to incase it can help anyone else looking to do similar things!***

      I just joined the forum. Truth be told it was just to check out some shocks that someone was selling but i see there is a ton of useful info on here! I'm up in Canada land and the snow is flying right now so not a bad time to make some progress on my project! Just a financial advisor with a car hobby...


      Picked it up in Calgary, AB about 4 years ago. Got it from stinky Roger. Literally the guy was gag worthy. Paid 2000$ for the car. just a standard 350/350 car. Drove it for 2 weeks then it sat for about a year on my garage pad. Built the garage and then started to tear it down. For the most part the body is in decent shape from what I can see except the roof skin has holes in it. The car originally had a 1/4 vinyl top that stopped working and rust ate its way through the spots it was attached to the roof skin. Some patches to be done (drivers door, passenger fender, quarter panel patches, small spot on the trunk floor) the hoods in good shape though!

      Nothing to special about the car to start with but I completely tore it down to the frame. Didn't really do a tone to it for about 3 years until this year i have made a ton of progress.

      I always wanted it to go fast, stop and handle well. Got the body off the frame a, had the frame sand blasted and then installed a Hellwig Frame FX kit. Essentially turns the coupe frame into a convertible frame with an extra body mount. Wasn't terribly hard to install this, just some grinding, cutting and welding. Welding is slow with this. Had to do about an inch at a time in 4 different spots then wait for the frame to cool to the touch and repeat. I think it took me about a 5 days of off and on to full weld in the kit. If you put to much heat through the frame when you weld it it will bow out the middle frame rail sections and then you have to go get it straightened. Mine bowed out a little bit but nothing that wasn't manageable, everything still lined up. Went this route cause it made clear space under the car for exhaust and anything else. (see pics of the old frame (just oily and had a coating on it really, then sand blasted, then with the kit installed).

      Once the frame was welded i just finished it up with poly body bushings from energy suspension and put the body back on. obviously i haven't driven it with the frame kit yet, but just moving the car around with a jack there is a noticeable difference in the stiffness of it.



      I have always wanted to do an ls swap. Super tough and reliable and cheap to buy. I got my engine for 250$. 5.3l lm7. Doesn't get more generic than that. Supposedly it has 170,000kms (105,000miles) on it and ran fine when pulled. Guess we will see! Needed some sensors, a coil and what not but nothing major so far. I used UMI lsx mounts for the install. Put on an f-body oil pan so the oil pan wasn't hanging 3" below the k-member. Also got a 4l60 trans built that a mated to the 5.3l. think i might be the only person in the world that had to cut their trans tunnel to make this fit (my car seems to be different when it comes to the measurement and fitting of things, same thing with the steering box) going to end up running a turbo. Not sure how to fix the picture orientation.


      Added a JGC steering box too, had to beat the frame a little to get it to fit which is odd cause i haven't heard of anyone else having to do that ()you will notice a trend here). Car stayed like that for a real long time. like 2-2.5 years. Then I made a ton of progress this year.

      Put together the whole fuel system. Tank, pump, filter, fittings, lines you name it. used PTFE fittings and hose. Fixed the core support cause one side was totally rotted out. Installed a Buick big block radiator along with some ford windstar fans, plumped the steering box (fittings too) with a cooler and the water pump hoses.




      Then i fabbed up a log manifold, sch 40 pipe that is all 2.5" with 1.5" runners. got a flange that is a 2.5" pipe to t4 that made this easy to install the turbo. This is a 78mm i used for mock. Will end up using a 72mm most likely. going the vs racing route with this!


      Also got some front suspension goodness installed. Had to drill new upper shock mount holes, which i don't think anyone else has ever had to do. 1" back on the drivers side and 3/4" back on the pass. side. Like I said trend with my car that its tolerances must have been after some afternoon scotch on the assembly floor. Got the suspension and brake parts from a friend. 6 piston wilwoods with 12.19" rotors too! Adjustable upper control arms, tubular lower arms, 2"drop spindles, and the brakes.






      Picked up a 12 bolt about a month ago. Its a 373 posi unit. Running poly bushings in the axle. Got rear suspension control arms coming from a buddy (rod ends in all the joints except the upper arms that bolt to the axle, 2" lowering springs in the mail (125#-200# progressive springs). Just need some single or double adjustable shocks to complete the package (anyone got some for sale?). Also picking up some wilwood brakes from a guy that couldn't use them for his project. 4 piston with 11" low profile rotors and calipers. 500$! Steal of a deal, they are new in the box.

      Pretty sure i am going to be running these wheels (Below). Either 18 or 19 inch x 10.5 wide and the 295's on all four corners. they would be about 10 lbs lighter than the corvette reproduction rims i was looking to buy and i can source them in Alberta and avoid paying the conversion, shipping and duty across the border (such a killer these days).

      Name:  superspeed-rf05rr-mb-01_101.jpg
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      Also just picked up some Cobalt ss seats that I will swap into the car. Going to have to make brackets to get them to fit but nothing crazy. (Paid 300$ for them). will post pics when they are set in place and what the brackets look like.

      Name:  cobalt saeats.jpg
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      Really trying to do this car with as many decent components as possible but without spending a ton of cash. Getting lots of stuff used from other people that is making a huge difference. Saved about $3000 on suspension, $1750 on brakes and $800 on seats doing it that way compared to buying the new stuff i was looking at.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,720
      Country Flag: United States
      Great build!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
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      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2020
      Posts
      37
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Great build!

      Andrew
      Thanks! Coming together slowly.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      426
      Country Flag: United States
      Tell me, was that car primer grey, and if so were the tail lights painted black around the outer ring? And did it have a Gen 1 Chevy engine in it? Been trying to track down my first car on and off for years, to either buy back or at least know it has a good home.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2020
      Posts
      37
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by Vimes View Post
      Tell me, was that car primer grey, and if so were the tail lights painted black around the outer ring? And did it have a Gen 1 Chevy engine in it?
      It wasn't primer grey when I got it. There is a shot of the back drivers quarter in the first picture of the thread, it is a light blue.

      Around the tail lights on the rear bumper it is not painted black there is a rubber piece that basically seals the tail light to the bumper (the rubber is black). The outside housing of the tail lights themselves are black plastic.

      It had a Buick 350 in it. I looked up the casting numbers. (they were a thin wall casting which made them lighter than a standard chevy 350)

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Location
      Lake Charles, LA
      Posts
      101
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking good so far! Subscribing to this one, should be exciting to see it come along.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2020
      Posts
      37
      Country Flag: Canada
      got some rear end poly bushings installed today.

      Really wasn't to hard to be honest. Most difficult part was getting the OEM metal thrust washer (i think that is what its called) out. did the old heat and beat treatment on it, seemed to work fine.

      First started with drilling out as much of the rubber around the steel pin as possible. Tried to stay as close to the dowel as possible.

      Name:  drill out rubber.jpg
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      Once i had drilled out as much as i could i knocked the dowel out with a 2.5# mini sledge and socket that sit the size of the dowel.

      Name:  hammer and socket.jpg
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      Next i hammered in a long flat blade screw driver and just pried the rubber out. It was all pretty easy up to this point!

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      Then came the heat and beat treatment on the thrust washers. I used a blow torch on the housing eye's/ears and the metal thrust washer. then i had a hitch laying around and butted it up to the thrust washer and beat away until one full side was knocked out. Once it was that far out i took the same mini sledge and screw driver and hammered against the inside of the lip of the thrust washer until they came out. Drivers side was pretty easy. passenger side started to smash the outside lip so it wouldn't come through so i had to bend it back in towards the middle to get it knocked out.

      Name:  screw driver knock out washer.jpg
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      Disassembly all done!


      Putting in the new poly bushings was essentially the reverse of everything above. I used the hitch and mini sledge technique to put the new thrust washers in (sprayed in a little wd-40 on the OD of the washers to provide a little ease into place.

      Next i just lubed up any parts of the poly bushings that contacted metal. OD of the poly bushing and OD of the new metal dowel. on the other side i lubed the ID of the end cap bushing. *** I would recommend wearing gloves for this, it is super thick and tacky (i was in a cold garage which doesn't help), took me a good 3 goes of degreaser soap to get everything off.***

      Name:  pass side bushing.jpg
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      Only difference in the assembly is to trim enough off the end cap bushing leaving only 1/8 of the poly bushing material as the space between the housing is really tight.

      Name:  drivers side bushing material removed.jpg
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      Overall not a hard job. Now just to get the gear oil (accidentally bought synthetic and need conventional) and the limited slip additive in and a gasket to seal it all up.

      Rear springs came today. BMR progressive rate springs (125lbs-200lbs). Got these as a scratch and dent item. Only issue i can see with them is in the pics below so I am more than happy. I think it saved me about 40$ USD compared to buying them new. I was originally going to go with UMI rear springs which are 130lbs (linear rate). So i figured these should ride like those when cruising and then when i get into corners (plan to do some cone course racing with this car and some very spirited street driving) they will end up being stiffer and perform better under load. I was playing around with them and putting my own weight on them the first inch is a plush and then they stiffen up real quick.

      Name:  BMR rear springs.jpg
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      Name:  springs damage.jpg
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      Just waiting on control arms from a friend off his car, he might have them off this weekend and then I can put the rear end together minus shocks. Looking for some single or double adjustable ones that would work with the 2" lower springs. Stay tuned!

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      426
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by lwilliams View Post
      It wasn't primer grey when I got it. There is a shot of the back drivers quarter in the first picture of the thread, it is a light blue.

      Around the tail lights on the rear bumper it is not painted black there is a rubber piece that basically seals the tail light to the bumper (the rubber is black). The outside housing of the tail lights themselves are black plastic.

      It had a Buick 350 in it. I looked up the casting numbers. (they were a thin wall casting which made them lighter than a standard chevy 350)
      Bummer. Oh well. Those are great cars, hope to have another one day. I know they're basically the same car but I'd much rather have a Skylark than the Chevelle I have.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2020
      Posts
      37
      Country Flag: Canada
      Picked up my seats. They are from the cobalt ss. Totally bought them hoping they would be good, my cousin picked them up for me. Got to sit in them and they are fantastic, bolstering is really good on them and i fit in them really well. Not sure how you could ever go wrong with them, considering that I only paid 300$ for the set. What is really nice about these is that the drivers side seat is height adjustable (had no idea when i bought these that was the case). I originally just set them on the floor of the car and was a little disappointed how high i sat but then viola, height lever. i can adjust them so i fit perfect in it and still have a few clicks (2-3 of even lower adjustment. I am 6'2" so i was happy they have adjustment.

      That being said there was a bunch of work to get the original brackets off the rails. I didn't count but i wouldn't be surprised if there was about 20 or so 1/2" to 3/4" rivets holding the brackets to the rails. I used an angle grinder to cut the rivets off then a pin punch to knock them out of the rails. Had to wack it with some pretty decent force but i was careful to check the rails to make sure i wasn't bending them or anything like that. This probably took me 2hrs at least, there was a lot of rivets. As an added bonus i wasn't paying attention to the spark show i was sending from cutting off the rivets and melted tons of metal dust into my garage windows.

      not the nest pic but this is what the rivets were like.
      Name: rivets on seat brackets.jpg
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      then what they look like cut off. you can see it in the picture, there is a faint outline of the rivet and bracket that i could see and use the pin punch to push them out.
      Name: rivets cut 1.jpg
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      I will need to do some floor modification to the driver side. The body mount sheet metal that contacts the seat at the front and rear of the rail doesn't allow the sit to sit centered with the steering wheel. I will have to cut out enough to get the seat to move about 1-2" to the left I figure. Won't be hard just some added work. I will put in a 90 degree angle of sheet metal to fill the hole i cut out and weld it in.

      essentially the angle piece here from the top of the mount to the bottom of the floor defiantly has to go then maybe some more. ill slowly cut out portions and mock the seat up until it fits right or i just get to close to the mount itself.

      This spot hits the front of the seat rail on the drivers side by the door
      Name: body mount hitting seat front.jpg
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      this spot hits the rear side of the seat rail on the same side


      There is also a hump of sorts on my passenger side that sits in the middle of the rail (on the side closest to the drive shaft tunnel) and doesn't let the front and back ends of the seat rail sit on the floor. Really hard to get a picture of this with the seat in and you can't really notice it just with the passenger side area on its own. I might cut this down to as it will allow the passenger seat to sit a little lower. I'll post pics of it and you can see where the hump was. They way that the seat sits on the pass. side, it is a little high for me (and i have some tall friends) so likely getting it to sit lower is a good idea.

      you might not be able to seeName: seats passenger side.jpg
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      Size: 112.5 KB it in this picture but the pass seat has a slight lean to it from that hump.

      Once i get the floor all sorted out, I'll make up some brackets that bolt to the under side of the rails and then to the to body braces that run underneath the body of the car. The funny thing is that the seat rails are almost perfect to set in the factory holes as bare rails about an inch or so short on each end. Probably use 1-1.5" flat stock for the brackets.

      Got my rear control arms. The uppers are adjustable Edelbrock arms (i don't even know if Edelbrock makes them anymore) i have the poly bushing on the axle side and then it is a rod bolt/bearing on the other end. Will just have to locate the axle to center once everything is bolted up. The lowers are adjustable from TRZ motor sports i believe. My friend that i got the lowers from said they are set to factory length already so i will just keep them that way. they are both rod bolt ends. I heard a lot of things like the rod bolt/bearing style ends are super harsh on the street and noisy etc. In talking to my buddy he said they are a little louder but ultimately fine for the street and not a harsh ride. Plus you can torque the rod style ends to spec without the car being on its own weight like you have to do with the poly bushings.

      uppers
      Name: upper control arms edelbrock.jpg
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      lowers
      Name: lower control arms trz.jpg
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      I also went a different route with my rims! I am picking up a set of C5 corvette Z06 rims on Friday. My buddy had the same rims on his Chevelle and i really like the look of them. they are 18x10.5 (rear) and 17x9.5 (front). currently they have michellen pilot sport tires on them 295/35/18 and 265/40/17 which are supposedly at 75% tread left. I will work them off at some point (likely as burnout victims)and then maybe throw on 305's in the rear (would definitely have to trim the fender lip )and 275's up front. Was really thinking that having the car set up to be square (295's all four corners) would be cool but it would be about $3000 or more to get all of that sorted out, so for $1700 for this set i am happy. The corvette rims are only about 1 lbs or so heavier that the super speed wheels i was looking at from what i have read. After getting the wheels i will just have to do some measuring and get some wheel adapters likely 2" (might have to cut the fender lip) or 1.75" if i can avoid the fender lip issue and they still look right on the car. here is a pic of the rims/tires.
      Name: corvette z06 rims.jpg
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      here is a pic of a buddies chevelle that had the same rims on his car
      Name: matts chevelle z06 rims.jpg
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      Should hopefully have my rear brakes this weekend, 11" low profile wilwoods. They are 6hrs away and a friend may be heading that direction and could pick them up. They are brand new in the box so pretty excited about those!

      NOW FOR THE BAD NEWS

      Holy fack fack fack fack.

      When i had taken the axles out of the rear end (72 chevelle 12 bolt posi) i must have spun the posi unit and the thrust washers that sit between the smaller top and bottom spider gears slipped out and are now trapped behind the spring and plates. this freaking sucks. I tried for about an hour and a whole bunch of options to get them out. Magnet, pick, tried pulling them through the springs, tried pulling the springs/plate out enough to see if they would come out, tried wedging the spring and plates either up or down to create some space between the housing and the spider gears but no such luck, it is just too tight and there is not enough space. oh and did i mention that by the time i noticed this i had already sprayed a bottle of anti-slip additive and a liter of rear end gear oil in the housing.

      you can see the washers behind the springs all the way at the back.
      Name: thrust washer in diff.jpg
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      I really don't see any other option other to remove the spring pack and plates. could be kind of sketch because i am pretty sure that they are the 400lbs springs. i talked to the guy that built the rear end and he was really trying to get me to avoid taking the spring pack out. It is also really tight because the plates hit the ring gear when i pull them out so hopefully I can compress them enough to get them out. Going to wrap a whole shwack of welding wire around the plates and twist it super tight, probably zip ties, a clamp or ten and hopefully be able to get it out safely and not lose an eye or two (safety glasses first). If i can get it out it will be easy to grab the thrust washers and put them back in.

      Open to any other suggestions of getting them out without removing the spring pack. Other option is to take it to a shop and have them take it apart but it would essentially mean taking the entire posi out of the rear end removing the ring gear, removing the spring pack and then get the thrust bearings. I'd like to avoid it if i can. Besides i have two eyes anyways.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2020
      Posts
      37
      Country Flag: Canada
      oops posted this in my new member post by accident here is the one with the pics.

      Picked up my seats. They are from the cobalt ss. Totally bought them hoping they would be good, my cousin picked them up for me. Got to sit in them and they are fantastic, bolstering is really good on them and i fit in them really well. Not sure how you could ever go wrong with them, considering that I only paid 300$ for the set. What is really nice about these is that the drivers side seat is height adjustable (had no idea when i bought these that was the case). I originally just set them on the floor of the car and was a little disappointed how high i sat but then viola, height lever. i can adjust them so i fit perfect in it and still have a few clicks (2-3 of even lower adjustment. I am 6'2" so i was happy they have adjustment.

      That being said there was a bunch of work to get the original brackets off the rails. I didn't count but i wouldn't be surprised if there was about 20 or so 1/2" to 3/4" rivets holding the brackets to the rails. I used an angle grinder to cut the rivets off then a pin punch to knock them out of the rails. Had to wack it with some pretty decent force but i was careful to check the rails to make sure i wasn't bending them or anything like that. This probably took me 2hrs at least, there was a lot of rivets. As an added bonus i wasn't paying attention to the spark show i was sending from cutting off the rivets and melted tons of metal dust into my garage windows.

      not the nest pic but this is what the rivets were like.
      Name:  rivets on seat brackets.jpg
Views: 1330
Size:  200.3 KB

      then what they look like cut off. you can see it in the picture, there is a faint outline of the rivet and bracket that i could see and use the pin punch to push them out.
      Name:  rivets cut 1.jpg
Views: 1329
Size:  202.6 KB

      I will need to do some floor modification to the driver side. The body mount sheet metal that contacts the seat at the front and rear of the rail doesn't allow the sit to sit centered with the steering wheel. I will have to cut out enough to get the seat to move about 1-2" to the left I figure. Won't be hard just some added work. I will put in a 90 degree angle of sheet metal to fill the hole i cut out and weld it in.

      essentially the angle piece here from the top of the mount to the bottom of the floor defiantly has to go then maybe some more. ill slowly cut out portions and mock the seat up until it fits right or i just get to close to the mount itself.

      This spot hits the front of the seat rail on the drivers side by the door
      Name:  body mount hitting seat front.jpg
Views: 1322
Size:  279.9 KB

      this spot hits the rear side of the seat rail on the same side
      Name:  body mount hitting seat rear.jpg
Views: 1316
Size:  282.2 KB

      There is also a hump of sorts on my passenger side that sits in the middle of the rail (on the side closest to the drive shaft tunnel) and doesn't let the front and back ends of the seat rail sit on the floor. Really hard to get a picture of this with the seat in and you can't really notice it just with the passenger side area on its own. I might cut this down to as it will allow the passenger seat to sit a little lower. I'll post pics of it and you can see where the hump was. They way that the seat sits on the pass. side, it is a little high for me (and i have some tall friends) so likely getting it to sit lower is a good idea.

      you might not be bale to see it but the pass side seat has a slight lean to it from that hump.
      Name:  seats passenger side.jpg
Views: 1333
Size:  112.5 KB


      Once i get the floor all sorted out, I'll make up some brackets that bolt to the under side of the rails and then to the to body braces that run underneath the body of the car. The funny thing is that the seat rails are almost perfect to set in the factory holes as bare rails about an inch or so short on each end. Probably use 1-1.5" flat stock for the brackets.

      Got my rear control arms. The uppers are adjustable Edelbrock arms (i don't even know if Edelbrock makes them anymore) i have the poly bushing on the axle side and then it is a rod bolt/bearing on the other end. Will just have to locate the axle to center once everything is bolted up. The lowers are adjustable from TRZ motor sports i believe. My friend that i got the lowers from said they are set to factory length already so i will just keep them that way. they are both rod bolt ends. I heard a lot of things like the rod bolt/bearing style ends are super harsh on the street and noisy etc. In talking to my buddy he said they are a little louder but ultimately fine for the street and not a harsh ride. Plus you can torque the rod style ends to spec without the car being on its own weight like you have to do with the poly bushings.

      uppers
      Name:  upper control arms edelbrock.jpg
Views: 1335
Size:  110.7 KB

      lowers
      Name:  lower control arms trz.jpg
Views: 1329
Size:  155.9 KB

      I also went a different route with my rims! I am picking up a set of C5 corvette Z06 rims on Friday. My buddy had the same rims on his Chevelle and i really like the look of them. they are 18x10.5 (rear) and 17x9.5 (front). currently they have michellen pilot sport tires on them 295/35/18 and 265/40/17 which are supposedly at 75% tread left. I will work them off at some point (likely as burnout victims)and then maybe throw on 305's in the rear (would definitely have to trim the fender lip )and 275's up front. Was really thinking that having the car set up to be square (295's all four corners) would be cool but it would be about $3000 or more to get all of that sorted out, so for $1700 for this set i am happy. The corvette rims are only about 1 lbs or so heavier that the super speed wheels i was looking at from what i have read. After getting the wheels i will just have to do some measuring and get some wheel adapters likely 2" (might have to cut the fender lip) or 1.75" if i can avoid the fender lip issue and they still look right on the car. here is a pic of the rims/tires.
      Name:  corvette z06 rims.jpg
Views: 1328
Size:  131.1 KB

      here is a pic of a buddies chevelle that had the same rims on his car
      Name:  matts chevelle z06 rims.jpg
Views: 1327
Size:  85.9 KB

      Should hopefully have my rear brakes this weekend, 11" low profile wilwoods. They are 6hrs away and a friend may be heading that direction and could pick them up. They are brand new in the box so pretty excited about those!

      NOW FOR THE BAD NEWS

      Holy fack fack fack fack.

      When i had taken the axles out of the rear end (72 chevelle 12 bolt posi) i must have spun the posi unit and the thrust washers that sit between the smaller top and bottom spider gears slipped out and are now trapped behind the spring and plates. this freaking sucks. I tried for about an hour and a whole bunch of options to get them out. Magnet, pick, tried pulling them through the springs, tried pulling the springs/plate out enough to see if they would come out, tried wedging the spring and plates either up or down to create some space between the housing and the spider gears but no such luck, it is just too tight and there is not enough space. oh and did i mention that by the time i noticed this i had already sprayed a bottle of anti-slip additive and a liter of rear end gear oil in the housing.

      you can see the washers behind the springs all the way at the back.
      Name:  thrust washer in diff.jpg
Views: 1329
Size:  130.3 KB

      I really don't see any other option other to remove the spring pack and plates. could be kind of sketch because i am pretty sure that they are the 400lbs springs. i talked to the guy that built the rear end and he was really trying to get me to avoid taking the spring pack out. It is also really tight because the plates hit the ring gear when i pull them out so hopefully I can compress them enough to get them out. Going to wrap a whole shwack of welding wire around the plates and twist it super tight, probably zip ties, a clamp or ten and hopefully be able to get it out safely and not lose an eye or two (safety glasses first). If i can get it out it will be easy to grab the thrust washers and put them back in.

      Open to any other suggestions of getting them out without removing the spring pack. Other option is to take it to a shop and have them take it apart but it would essentially mean taking the entire posi out of the rear end removing the ring gear, removing the spring pack and then get the thrust bearings. I'd like to avoid it if i can. Besides i have two eyes anyways.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      426
      Country Flag: United States
      On the sears, would it be possible to use the seat brackets from the Skylark seats? They were made for the hump on the floor. If the new seats can bolt to those brackets they'd probably fit.

      For the gear, if rotating it caused the problem, what about rotating it back? If you dropped the driveshaft you'd be able to spin the reat diff by hand using the yoke. Repositioning the diff that way might give you the room needed to work the washers out. A coat hanger might help here as well seeing as it's really stiff but bendable wire.

    12. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by Vimes View Post
      On the sears, would it be possible to use the seat brackets from the Skylark seats? They were made for the hump on the floor. If the new seats can bolt to those brackets they'd probably fit.

      For the gear, if rotating it caused the problem, what about rotating it back? If you dropped the driveshaft you'd be able to spin the reat diff by hand using the yoke. Repositioning the diff that way might give you the room needed to work the washers out. A coat hanger might help here as well seeing as it's really stiff but bendable wire.
      the original seat in the car was a bench seat and i sold it along with the brackets. there isn't actually and mounting holes in the floow for the rails on the inner most side of the car, so that is where i am going to drill some holes to mount the seat brackets i make to the existing body supports that run through the middle of the car.

      The axle is completely out of the car so i can spin it freely already. I have tried rotating it back and that is what the guy who built the diff said to do (it was super clean when i got it from him with no oil in it). however now that i put the gear oil in it, it is just way to sticky to allow the thrust bearings to really move around freely. Coat hanger is a good idea! I will give that try, plus i can snake it through some of the areas fairly easy i would imagine. thanks for the idea!

    13. #13
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      Well more progress! And success getting those thrust washers out. I did end up taking out the spring pack and plates.

      so essentially i pulled out the spring pack far enough that i could use a long screw driver and compress the springs enough to get it passed the ring gear.

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      then i gently pulled the pack up past the ring gear
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      once it was past the ring gear i pulled it out enough that the lower spring were still in the diff but the upper plate and springs were out enough that i could get a clamp on it. I basically wedged a smaller style c-clamp in through the grooves of the ring gear and was able to clamp the upper springs. I was originally using two clamps but for future reference for anyone else 1 clamp works better. i don't have a pic of this cause my phone died.

      this is a picture when i was re-installing the pack but you can get the idea how it comes out too and how the clamps are oriented.
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      once the spring pack was out i put another clamp on it to keep everything together.
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      Washers were easy to take out at this point i just used a magnet to grab them.

      Now for re-assembly.
      i took the lower clamp off the springs (black clamp). Then I placed the pack against the passenger side spider gear and used the same long screw driver to compress the other side of the lower springs and then pushed it back into the posi unit.
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      Finally got it all in! only to realize the washers fell out again while i was installing it. AHHHHHHHHHH! repeat process again. but only 4 times with choice words directed at my differential. What i did realize that renistalling them with one clamp was far easier than two. i did at one point have the pin in the upper spider gear holding the thrust washer in palce so it would stop falling back. but this was more cumbersome and things in the way. instead i just put the magnet back in that same spot and that helped to stop it from falling down.

      Pin in place to hold washer, but it just kept sliding through and getting in the way.
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      Essentially once i had the magnet in there and stopped the washers from falling back i got everything in and buttoned up. Sorry i wish i had some more pictures but my phone kind of died half way through and i was just getting frustrated and wanted it done. all in all not a hard job just one of those tideous you have to do it 4 times until it all goes together. after 4 times you start to get pretty good at it. The spring pack did come apart a few times. nothing dangerous or anything like i thought it could be, granted i think i9 have the 200# springs in my rear end. this definitely makes re-install easier. the other sets of springs are either 400 or 800# springs!

      But like i said, all put together and loaded the carrier up with some anti slip additive and 2L of gear oil 80-90w. I spoke directly to Eaton. they said the original units need conventional oil (which mine is) and the new units can use either.

      In the end this was a nice relief finally!. i probably spent like 2 hours or so screwing around with all of this to get it put together. Diff cover on and torqued to 20 ft/lbs, crissy crossy style.
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      I got the rear brakes at this point to and started assembly on them. I wanted to wait to install the diff once the brakes were in so i didn't have to work under the car.
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      first step in the install is to remove the axles to install the rear caliper bracket and drum e-brake assembly. the drum/bracket bolts to the housing.
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      then reinstall the axle. did you know that when you take the axle out and don't touch anything rear end related the thrust washers still fall out again! KILL ME! (repeat all spring pack pull-out and reinstall)

      reinstalled the axles and the next step is to put on this collar that will wood supplied to make sure the rotor is centered and mated to teh axle flange properly. the drivers side went on perfect. However the passenger side broke.
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      On the passenger side there was a very small shoulder on the axle. it was quite small so i thought i could just tappity tap the collar on (hammer and screw driver style, probably shouldn't have used a flat blade screw driver). But i broke it. Choice words for rear end again.

      I will likely get another collar but wanted to continue the install. got out the mini dremel wheel and slowly took some material down until the collar fit.
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      was still having some trouble getting the collar seated on to the rotor so i installed the collar into the rotor first and then on to the axle. i will likely get another collar just to be safe and install it when it shows. seeing how the car ain't moving anytime soon it will do for now.
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      next was to install the calipers. pretty simple you just add or reduce shims on either side of the bracket/caliper to make it so the rotor is in the middle and equi-distant from either side of the caliper. (don't mind the rusty rotor pic the guy i bought these from had some water get on this rotor he didn't know about and it has some surface rust, i will get some brake clean to clean it up and then the first time i use the brakes it should basically come off)
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      once the calipers were set i just had to remove the pad retainer, insert the pads and re-install the retainer. rear end is ready to get put together and in the car!
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      I put the rear end on a combo of jack stands and on a floor jack to maneuver it into place to get all the control arms put in. was a little bit of a battle at first but was a got a couple of them bolted in it was fairly easy. for future reference i think install the lowers first and then the uppers could make things a little easier. i also installed one of the ride tech coil over mounts (upper and lower) so that was the spring was in and the car is sitting on its own weight i can get a ride height measurement for shocks.

      I haven't adjusted the uppers to center the rear end as i want to get both rear wheel adapters (on order should be here before Christmas) and both rear wheels in and see how everything lines up. It is defiantly pretty close already (the uppers were already installed on a Chevelle with a 12bolt).

      pics of everything under the rear of the car!
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      Also got my wheels and snagged a 2" adapter to borrow from a buddy.
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      I did measure for the shock length but can't remember now what it was. i wanna say something like 13.5" or around there. My plan right now is to likely buy the JEGS single adjustable coil over shock and put them in without a spring. then if i ever want to adjust ride height or change springs i can just buy springs for the coil over and go that route, will likely just have to get some spacers to install the shocks. The wheel and tire tuck really nice in the rear! might change a little once i get it on all four but happy how it looks with that 2" BMR lowering spring. I can easily fit all four finger between the tire and the fender lip. Might not have to trim anything which would be nice too. I getting sick of grinding and the metal dust and stuff on the car and in the garage all the time. the rear brakes look a little small but they are the low profile ones meant to fit in a 15" wheel haha.
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      Also started to install my seat will post some pics soon!

    14. #14
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      That's a pretty low stance in the rear. You will definitely have to do some transmission tunnel (maybe even driveshaft tunnel) surgery in order to raise the back of the transmission high enough to achieve good driveline operating angles.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
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    15. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      That's a pretty low stance in the rear. You will definitely have to do some transmission tunnel (maybe even driveshaft tunnel) surgery in order to raise the back of the transmission high enough to achieve good driveline operating angles.

      Andrew

      Your probably right. friend had his car at about the same ride height and the drive shaft hit the tunnel on big bumps. going to check out the angles for the rear end this week/weekend. The trans is set at 3 degrees already. I do have to close up the tunnel around the upper 2/3's of the bell housing as it hits in 2 spots right now and is reallllly tight to the trans cooler fittings/hoses. Going to get the angels right and then install a driveshaft and see how everything looks first, if it all looks ok i will probably drive it around some and get an idea on if anything needs to be done too.

    16. #16
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      Saying that the trans is at 3 degrees is meaningless. Three degrees relative to what? The frame? That measurement doesn't really matter because we are concerned with the front and rear operating angles on the u joints.
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
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      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2020
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      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Saying that the trans is at 3 degrees is meaningless. Three degrees relative to what? The frame? That measurement doesn't really matter because we are concerned with the front and rear operating angles on the u joints.
      spoke to a few people and they said to set an angle finder on the valley plate with the intake off. Set the angle to 3 degrees (pointing downward). this was with the engine and trans installed and the frame level. front to back and side to side.

      - - - Updated - - -

      i'll check the angle at the back of the trans and the rear end to but i am pretty sure that i check it before and it was at the same 3 degrees.

    18. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by lwilliams View Post
      spoke to a few people and they said to set an angle finder on the valley plate with the intake off. Set the angle to 3 degrees (pointing downward). this was with the engine and trans installed and the frame level. front to back and side to side.

      - - - Updated - - -

      i'll check the angle at the back of the trans and the rear end to but i am pretty sure that i check it before and it was at the same 3 degrees.
      Ok, but you have no idea what the angle of the installed driveshaft is, and without that information you can't determine the operating angles of the u-joints. Again, for the purpose of operating angles, the angle of the engine (and thus the trans) relative to the frame are meaningless.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    19. #19
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      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Ok, but you have no idea what the angle of the installed driveshaft is, and without that information you can't determine the operating angles of the u-joints. Again, for the purpose of operating angles, the angle of the engine (and thus the trans) relative to the frame are meaningless.

      Andrew
      good to know! thanks. i will check out these angles once the drive shaft is in. i'll wait to close up the trans tunnel at this point then. cheers.

    20. #20
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      Nice build!! Subscribed!!

      Where are you located?

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