Questions on swapping 68 Camaro from Auto to Manual trans.

[Pete68]

Hi everyone, Im thinking of converting my 68 Camaro to a manual, it currently has a TH350. I will do it when I swap in an LS (currently has a tired 327). I have a few questions:

1. How much clearancing will I need to do to get it to fit?
2. Does anyone know if anyone sells a kit to simplify the process? Pedals, clutch cylinder, etc.
3. Will I be able to retain my stock center console and the original shifter location?
4. What about the TR-6060, is it a different size than the T56?
5. Are there any other challenges with using a TR-6060 vs a T56?

Thanks. : )

[1985olds]

The challenge with the tr6060 vs t56 is the tr6060 has a companion flang and needs a driveshaft with a slip custom made whereas the t56 uses a conventional slip yoke. Nothing wrong with the slip driveshaft, but is expensive to have made and the companion flange is a weak link. I have a magnum converted tr6060 in my car and love it btw

[AU Doc]

The general consensus is you will need to raise the trans tunnel to get a T56 to fit. HOWEVER, I used the Holley LS swap kit along with new solid body mounts, and it would have fit fine without raising the tunnel. I raised mine because everyone said it would be necessary, but if I had it to do over again I wouldn't have.

Long story short, plan on raising the tunnel. But you'll have to mock it up to know for sure.

Bowler Transmission is one of the site sponsors. I bought a kit from them that included everything I needed. It was well worth the little extra cost to have them help me through the process and not have to waste time trying to mix and match parts.

[anguilla1980]

+1 on the tunnel. I was misled by a major Tremec reseller that it would fit in my 1st gen without cutting the tunnel. What they didn't tell me was that if the car was lowered from stock I would need to, so they basically lied. Who the hell doesn't have their car lowered who does this swap?!?! Then when I had a vibration a local driveline shop who was referred to me as the "best" ripped me off for $500 by setting my rear pinion angle up to the same 3.5 degrees my Magnum was down by re-welding my Ford 9" mounting brackets.

I ended up buying a Bowler tunnel to raise mine and yes the factory console still fits just fine. The fact is the rear pinion angle and the T56 must be at the same angle yes, BUT they MUST be parallel. See the diagram I attached for what I mean. You simply can't do the same with the T56 pointing down and the rear pointing up.

[Gmachine1911]

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Like Anguilla said...will a T56 physically fit under the stock trans tunnel of a 68 Camaro? Yes. Will your driveline angle be so severe that you'd be nuts to leave it that way? Yes.

Here’s a pic of when I did my 68 Camaro (before installing Bowler’s tunnel patch to raise it). This mock up consisted of the stock tunnel, a BBC mock up block sitting on big block frame stands with solid motor mounts, Quick Time bell housing, T56 and Bowler trans cross member. I also test fitted the engine on SBC frame stands and the engine itself seemed to fit better but either way, the moral of the story is that you'll need to raise the trans tunnel. Don’t underestimate the importance of driveline angle.

At the end of the day, I ended up using the Bowler Tunnel patch, stock height body bushings, LS3 engine, stock console modified to fit the shape of the new tunnel and the shifter is in the stock location.

[Pete68]

Great info everyone, thanks. I really want to keep the center console as my interior concept is "time machine", everything is 100% stock on my interior.

I really prefer the feel of the TR-6060, is the rear flange the only issue for using that transmission?

[Snowcatter]

I'm using the TR6060 in mine, it is a great transmission and cheaper to source. The remote mounted shifter on it may be a blessing or a curse in your application. For me it is necessary to reach the shifter location in a 5th gen console. I just had to lengthen it a couple inches. Sonnax makes a really nice 3-bolt yoke adapter for 1350 series u-joints. Just have to use a two piece slip drive shaft.

[Snowcatter]

+1 on the tunnel. I was misled by a major Tremec reseller that it would fit in my 1st gen without cutting the tunnel. What they didn't tell me was that if the car was lowered from stock I would need to, so they basically lied. Who the hell doesn't have their car lowered who does this swap?!?! Then when I had a vibration a local driveline shop who was referred to me as the "best" ripped me off for $500 by setting my rear pinion angle up to the same 3.5 degrees my Magnum was down by re-welding my Ford 9" mounting brackets.

I ended up buying a Bowler tunnel to raise mine and yes the factory console still fits just fine. The fact is the rear pinion angle and the T56 must be at the same angle yes, BUT they MUST be parallel. See the diagram I attached for what I mean. You simply can't do the same with the T56 pointing down and the rear pointing up.

You are correct in the fact that parallel must be achieved. Don't let that drawing mislead you into thinking that your output shaft and pinion have to be level. If the transmission is tilted down 6° then the pinion must be tilted up 6° to match which achieves the parallel relationship required. The joints also need to be oriented properly on the driveshaft. The reason for this is difficult to explain without a visual reference. There is an excellent video online somewhere that explains this concept in detail it is called driveline phasing. Typically when setting up proper driveline angle the transmission is shimmed up or down to match whatever angle the pinion is at. Usually somewhere in the neighborhood of 6° Best to use an angle finder and measure your pinion angle with the car suspension at ride height then set your transmission output shaft to the same angle pointing down. Get it to within 1/2 degree and you will be smooth sailing.

[Snowcatter]

I found it...this video will clear up all the confusion that surrounds driveline angle issues and phasing.
https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4