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    Results 1 to 10 of 10
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Posts
      17
      Country Flag: United States

      1969 Camaro brakes

      Hello,
      Since I always get good advice, let me get some good brake advice. I have upped the hp, getting ready to order the rear suspension, so now for the brakes. I have single piston front disc's and rear drums. This is a street car with 15" rims, but people drive crazy and I am looking for accident avoidance. What opinions are there on the following
      1. Upgrade the fronts to double piston calipers leave the drums
      2. Leave the fronts, upgrade the rears to ?????
      3. Just upgrade pads and brake shoes.
      4. Upgrade both the fronts and rears to discs. I think overkill but...

      What rears have people used with the 15" rims. LT1 93 to 97 camaro calipers are supposed to fit but i hear issues with parking brakes.
      Wilwood must make something that fits, but I know the 15" rims limit me.

      I always believed the fronts do 70 percent of the braking, so upgrading the fronts to the double piston really worth it and leave the drums?

      Help



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      322
      Country Flag: United States
      Are there any specific problems you're trying to fix (i.e. the car pulls to one side when braking, rears lock before fronts, can't lock the front wheels, etc)?

      The stock brake system should be capable of locking all 4 wheels if it's been properly maintained. You always want the fronts to lock up slightly before the rears to maintain stability when threshold braking. As long as this is the case, no brake upgrades will reduce stopping distance - only tires with more grip will. The rationale for upgrading to big brakes/wheels is for increased thermal capacity when tracking the car and/or looks. For normal street driving they usually aren't necessary.

      A good quality brake pad has no downsides if you're still running parts store cheapies. If you tell us what you're looking for we can make some suggestions. I'd caution you against going to "sticky" rear shoes because again, you don't want the rears to lock before the fronts.

      By the way, the quantity of brake pistons doesn't really matter unless you're trying to get equal clamping load on huge brake pads (which you don't have). It's the piston area that counts.
      - Ryan

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Posts
      17
      Country Flag: United States
      I am finishing my upgrades and with increase hp and better suspension, I am not going to go cheap on the brakes as I feel that is not the place to attempt to save money. While I don't need to fix what isn't broken, the original car has brakes for no more than 300hp and a 1969 standard, which I would think todays standard is much different. Since I am driving on somewhat contested roads (NJ), I need to at least match the vehicles in front of me so if they do a emergency stop, I dont need to plow into them as my braking distance is longer.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      322
      Country Flag: United States
      If you really want to match the braking performance of a new vehicle, you'll need modern tires (I don't know of any in the typical 15" muscle car sizes.... BFG Radial T/A's, Cooper Cobras, etc haven't really changed since the 80's) and ABS. On a flat, clean surface, a good driver can get within a few percent of ABS stopping distance by threshold braking all other things being equal. On a typical dusty, bumpy street, there's no way a muscle car on equal tire will stop as well as the Toyota RAV4 in front of you.

      The easiest way around this problem is to maintain a safe following distance and/or run better tires than the all-seasons the traffic around you is running, but that probably requires a bigger wheel size.

      If brake dust isn't a concern, I like the Hawk HPS pads on the street. If you're trying to minimize dust, I like Raybestos EHT. Both these pads have higher coefficients of friction and better fade resistance than what you get at the local parts store.
      - Ryan

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      El Paso, Texas
      Posts
      404
      What about S10's for the rear?

      https://nastyz28.com/threads/s10-bla...ersion.109454/

      Alex

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      453
      Country Flag: United States
      Upgrade pads/shoes, if not already done install new brake hoses to limit hose swelling/brake pedal effort.

      Take the car down the road and hit the brakes, does the ass end come up when you stop? Means your rear brakes are out of adjustment. Adjust your drums before you go out, find an empty backstreet or dead end. Put the car in reverse, get up to speed, then slam the brakes, let off, slam the brakes let off, etc until you come to a complete stop. This shocks the adjuster screws into rotating out and setting the shoes where they should be. Drive forward and hit the brakes. If the rear comes up again, go for another round. Car should come to a stop flat if brakes are adjusted properly.

      I just went from "factory" 70 style discs and drum rears to 2000 Camaro dual piston front with larger rotor and single piston rear disc (running 17" wheels). Pulled the brakes off a 00 V6 Camaro, same size as the Z28, running the pads/rotors that came off the car, was an easy upgrade, have about $550 in complete overhaul. Made a considerable different in pedal feel, but car doesn't stop any better than before, but I'm also running 500 treadwear tires which are hard. Brakes easily over power tire traction if I get on them hard, it is a little more controllable than before though. Did this to hopefully prevent brake fade when running the hills with my buddies. Had the brakes fade/grease before, it's not very fun.
      *Jeff*
      Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
      Cammed LQ4 / T56 Swap Project Thread <-click to read! 😁

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Location
      East Tennessee
      Posts
      163
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by stab6902 View Post
      The stock brake system should be capable of locking all 4 wheels if it's been properly maintained. You always want the fronts to lock up slightly before the rears to maintain stability when threshold braking. As long as this is the case, no brake upgrades will reduce stopping distance - only tires with more grip will. The rationale for upgrading to big brakes/wheels is for increased thermal capacity when tracking the car and/or looks. For normal street driving they usually aren't necessary.

      If you really want to match the braking performance of a new vehicle, you'll need modern tires (I don't know of any in the typical 15" muscle car sizes.... BFG Radial T/A's, Cooper Cobras, etc haven't really changed since the 80's) and ABS. On a flat, clean surface, a good driver can get within a few percent of ABS stopping distance by threshold braking all other things being equal. On a typical dusty, bumpy street, there's no way a muscle car on equal tire will stop as well as the Toyota RAV4 in front of you.

      The easiest way around this problem is to maintain a safe following distance and/or run better tires than the all-seasons the traffic around you is running, but that probably requires a bigger wheel size.
      Absolutely correct Ryan. If you can lock up the tires now, and the front and rear lock up at roughly the same time (fronts before rear), it's as good as it is going to get UNTIL YOU GET BETTER TIRES. This is assuming you can't reduce the weight of the car by 1000lbs or so.

      Think about it, the tires are the only thing touching the pavement. They are by far the most important part of cornering, braking, and accelerating besides weight.

      That being said, bigger rotors and calipers, as well as better pads can reduce pedal effort, which makes it easier to threshold brake. Threshold braking is very hard to do an requires a lot of practice, awareness of the ever-changing surface conditions, and a few guardian angels. Racecar drivers spend most of their early careers learning how to properly use the brakes. Almost all passing opportunities in road racing is related to braking ability and happens in the braking zones.

      That's why engineers blessed us with ABS. The best way to avoid a crash is get better tires, be aware, don't tailgate, and pray.

      I am happy to suggest to you what I did for brakes, but I race my car and frankly I'm not sure you need something like what I have if you're just cruising around; however, if you plan on doing any performance driving, bigger wheels are a necessity.

      Ryan
      Electrical/Mechanical Engineer
      1968 Camaro RS - Flat Black

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Posts
      17
      Country Flag: United States
      I am still finishing up the mechanicals on the car, like I said, engine upgrade is now done with 400ish hp, suspension front done double adjustable coil overs, rear suspension coming Dec and since the rear end will be out of the car, was going to do some brake upgrades as if i went to discs, the axles would need to be removed so I was doing a double for that one. I am looking for a nice ride, so I am understanding the 15" tires "should" give the best ride. Perhaps my thinking is old, I am not sure, just me believing less sidewall less cushion for the ride. If i decide to go 17" rims, then the ls brakes would be fine. Do you really think they only make the better tires in larger sizes?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Posts
      17
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by CapSS92 View Post
      What about S10's for the rear?

      https://nastyz28.com/threads/s10-bla...ersion.109454/

      Alex
      I was actually looking at this, not sure how the e brake would be, I am hearing nightmares about hooking that up..Although it is a automatic, but a ebrake is a good idea..

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Location
      East Tennessee
      Posts
      163
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by gchank View Post
      I am still finishing up the mechanicals on the car, like I said, engine upgrade is now done with 400ish hp, suspension front done double adjustable coil overs, rear suspension coming Dec and since the rear end will be out of the car, was going to do some brake upgrades as if i went to discs, the axles would need to be removed so I was doing a double for that one. I am looking for a nice ride, so I am understanding the 15" tires "should" give the best ride. Perhaps my thinking is old, I am not sure, just me believing less sidewall less cushion for the ride. If i decide to go 17" rims, then the ls brakes would be fine. Do you really think they only make the better tires in larger sizes?
      There are plenty of "good" street tires out there for 13", 14", 15" wheels, but they don't have much sidewall and are usually meant for small cars like Miatas.

      Personally, it is my belief that your thinking is old. Virtually every new car on the road (most of which are designed to ride nice and be comfortable) come with 16"+ wheels. A very large portion come with 17"+ wheels. Tire selection in the 17"+ range is far better. Even a modern all-season would be better than the tires you're on now.

      Ride quality and comfort are affected by tire sidewall compliance but I would argue your suspension has the largest effect on it.
      Electrical/Mechanical Engineer
      1968 Camaro RS - Flat Black





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