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    Thread: Sound Deadening

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Elk Grove, CA
      Posts
      213

      Sound Deadening

      I’ve used sound deadening mats in my trunk, interior and doors, the only area left is my roof, would sound deadening mats be recommended? I have a 69 Camaro



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jacksonville, FL
      Posts
      1,651
      Country Flag: United States
      I used Restomod Air’s membrane when I put my new headliner in. I don’t know how it might compare to the others out there but it seems to do a great job.

      https://www.restomodair.com/shopprod...mal-insulator/
      Chris
      1968 Chevy Camaro SS
      LS3/T56 DSE suspension


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,495
      Country Flag: United States
      I use Dynamat followed by a layer of Thermozite.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Milwaukee, WI USA
      Posts
      439
      Country Flag: United States
      I used Dynamat Extreme under the headliner... it works great!
      (it's also a 69 Camaro- not that it matters what vehicle you have).
      1969 Camaro SS, 350(NOM), M21, 12 Bolt Posi, 01B (Jan 69) LOS Build

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Nashville/ Tampa
      Posts
      724
      Country Flag: United States
      I used membrane as well. Good stuff, but I think I'd probably use something lighter since it's hanging from something hit by the sun all day. Not that I think membrane would fall, but a dense foam of some sort might stay better (and not disrupt the headliner much if it didn't). Guess it depends on if you have a solid headliner as well.
      https://www.instagram.com/gen_v_lt1_chevelle/


      Do not buy anything from Frankie's Used Auto Parts. Ever.
      Chevelle ̶a̶l̶m̶o̶s̶t̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶i̶s̶h̶e̶d̶ L92/200-4r now Gen V LT1 and T56- https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...nvertible.html

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      Chicago burbs
      Posts
      247
      Country Flag: United States
      Depends on the goal for the roof. Adding CLD tiles to 25% of the area will eliminate the resonance and make the roof essentially accoustaically dead. Tapping on it with your finger becomes a thud, instead of the tinny, vibrate-y noise we usually get. I added these to my G8GT because you couldn't hold a conversation when it was raining.

      If you're looking to control wind noise and other stuff, the melamine foam is designed exactly to absorb medium to high frequencies. High temp Velcro can be found on McMasterCar or Grainger, I use it in my rides and it has had no issues for about 4 years. The "Heavy Duty" stuff I got from Home Deeps came off after a month of summer.

      If you want to get nerdy and take data, you could use a spectrum analyzer app and see what frequencies remain that bother you and then choose a product to eliminate that frequency.

      Although this guy is no longer in business, he's left his page up for a while and it is full of actual information, and not just hyped up marketing for the latest dynamat type product.
      https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

      Hope this is helpful.
      edit:grammer cause I can't type

      1969 442 6.0L LQ9 T56
      Fab9 w/ custom 3 Link conversion
      FAYS2 Watts link
      Thanks to Mark at SC&C for his honesty and passion for the sport, and Ron Sutton for the wealth of knowledge that has helped shape so many of the cars on this site.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Elk Grove, CA
      Posts
      213
      Quote Originally Posted by jetmech442 View Post
      Depends on the goal for the roof. Adding CLD tiles to 25% of the area will eliminate the resonance and make the roof essentially accoustaically dead. Tapping on it with your finger becomes a thud, instead of the tinny, vibrate-y noise we usually get. I added these to my G8GT because you couldn't hold a conversation when it was raining.

      If you're looking to control wind noise and other stuff, the melamine foam is designed exactly to absorb medium to high frequencies. High temp Velcro can be found on McMasterCar or Grainger, I use it in my rides and it has had no issues for about 4 years. The "Heavy Duty" stuff I got from Home Deeps came off after a month of summer.

      If you want to get nerdy and take data, you could use a spectrum analyzer app and see what frequencies remain that bother you and then choose a product to eliminate that frequency.

      Although this guy is no longer in business, he's left his page up for a while and it is full of actual information, and not just hyped up marketing for the latest dynamat type product.
      https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

      Hope this is helpful.
      edit:grammer cause I can't type
      Now this really good information for everyone. I’m more interested in quitting down the interior so I can hear my radio.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      645
      Country Flag: United States
      The two products not mentioned here that I'm looking into are aerogel and thinsulate. I'm looking for both sound deadening and thermal insulation, and these two are supposed to do really well for both. Will definitely be doing the CLD tiles as well. Aerogel was developed for the space program to keep satellites and probes warm inside, and has the highest R factor you can get where insulation is concerned with 10mm being in the R7 range. Not sure on the weight. Thinsulate is supposed to be very good at eliminating sound, and is very lightweight to boot so would do well over the headliner. Both are also hydrophobic, very important for automotive insulation. Melamine foam treated to be hydrophobic is supposed to be better than thinsulate, but not sure on the weight factor which is pretty important for insulation over the headliner. You don't want something that will cause the headliner to fall if it comes loose from the roof.

      And, you should also be looking into thermal insulation if you want to have good sound. On a hot day, you don't want to have to keep the AC on max recirc because that will drown out the radio. A thermally insulated cabin, once it reaches a comfy temp, won't require as much to keep it there. The fan speed can be turned down and the radio will sound better.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jun 2013
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      102
      Country Flag: United States
      Everyone was recommending to stay away from dynamat because it was overpriced, but when I went looking a month ago the biggest competitor (damplifier pro) was 50% more expensive... I threw some dynamat xtreme in the back seat area, on the rear fender wells, trunk floor pan, and the doors. I only have one short drive since then but all of a sudden it's like the exhaust noise is coming through the windows instead of the whole car echoing it.

      One thing I didn't realize is dynamat xtreme's primary purpose is not really sound/heat proofing, just resonance/vibration control. I don't have AC so I can't comment how well it insulates, but I will vouch that it made a big difference for sound. I bought 72 sq ft off amazon for $300. I think I've used 3 out of 8 sheets, you don't need 100% coverage, the instructions and sounddeadenershowdown recommend 30-50% is fine. I should be able to do the firewall, floors, roof, and trunk lid no problem with what I have left.
      James
      1969 Mustang Fastback

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Location
      GA
      Posts
      47
      Country Flag: United States
      I used Dynamat on the roof also, and I'm very pleased with the result.





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