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  1. #1
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    K member frame bolt hole repair

    So my tubular K member decided to take a crap and when it did, one of my bolt hole mounts got bent. I drop the member and the hole is now cocked and concaved and the nutsert broke loose. Is there a tool like a slide hammer that will go into a 1” hole, secure itself on the wall and then I can beat it out? The frame is boxed and is a unibody and I only have access through the 1” hole. Any help is appreciated.
    1968 Charger R/T, EFI,SC,6-speed

  2. #2
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    Pics would help , sorry not a big mopar guy to know what you're referring to
    Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

    Ryan Austin
    On twitter @raustinss
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  3. #3
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    Here’s a pic.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    1968 Charger R/T, EFI,SC,6-speed

  4. #4
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    Not sure if you want to but I'd cut a hole in the side to access it , reweld it then weld the access hole closed again
    Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

    Ryan Austin
    On twitter @raustinss
    On Instagram austinss70

  5. #5
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    Jun 2020
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    Do they make rivnuts that big. If they do it’s a pretty easy fix.

  6. #6
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    I've found some in that size but the 1" hole in my frame is too big for the rivet. Plus to compress a rivet of that size would require me to have Hulk strength so I was told.
    1968 Charger R/T, EFI,SC,6-speed

  7. #7
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    Also not sure youd want a subframe being held on by rivnut
    Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

    Ryan Austin
    On twitter @raustinss
    On Instagram austinss70

  8. #8
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    It’s a Dodge unibody so everything is tied in. Granted the nutsert would be the weakest link between the other 3 bolts, I don’t think it would be that bad. When the k member welds failed it did damage to that one area.
    1968 Charger R/T, EFI,SC,6-speed

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    395
    What's the story on the tubular K-frame crapping? What happened? What brand was it?

  10. #10
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    This was a complete setup from Magnumforce Racing. Came with tubular k frame, upper and lower a-arms, rack and pinion, spindles, 13” Wilwoods and coilover shocks. I was told this was good for the street and drag racing. I make a 3mph turn around in a parking lot and the weld snaps and the car drops the driver side. Since this design is 15 years old, they don’t have any replacement k members so I have to buy a whole new setup. And I mean nothing will bolt on to the newer stuff. 2020 can kiss my ass!!
    1968 Charger R/T, EFI,SC,6-speed

  11. #11
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    Jun 2020
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    What about through bolting all the way through the frame. I’m just thinking how to fix this without cutting a piece out of the frame to straighten it and weld a nut in there and then reweld the pieces back in.

  12. #12
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    Interesting. Didn’t think of that. Thanks for the input brother.
    1968 Charger R/T, EFI,SC,6-speed

  13. #13
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    If you go that route you're going to want to "sleeve" the hole by welding in a DOM piece of tubing so you could tighten the bolt without crushing aka collapsing the original rail

    Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

    Ryan Austin
    On twitter @raustinss
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  14. #14
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    Oh yeah definitely. Good thing I work in a machine shop.
    1968 Charger R/T, EFI,SC,6-speed

  15. #15
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    Lol ...love when you have the skills and the material , good luck
    Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

    Ryan Austin
    On twitter @raustinss
    On Instagram austinss70