1969 Camaro suspension upgrade...

[trakday]

New here with a newly purchased 69. car has welded 12pt cage...so cant do subframe swaps.
I would like to know if anyone can help...are the Leaf springs 2 or 3 inch drop? Im thinking 2" along with the front Hotchkiss springs.?
I want the car to handle on a road coarse...especially at Limerock. 15" minilites with Goodyear Blue streaks are on the way, i was planning on ridetech upper and lower arms along with ridetech/Fox triple front coilovers. Keep the Leaf springs? what can i do to tighten the rear without 4Link rear? or just bite it and go with the 4pt?

I have 13 years of track driving with BMW's, i too am a driving instructor. If i can get this Z28 handle somewhat as close to my bmw's then great...but i know its a fine line.

Thank you all.

[BMR Sales]

you can do a lot with the Suspension, but I would not expect it to be anywhere near close to a Track Prepped BMW

[Rod]

Leaf cars can track very well... a leaf car and a link car achieve the same results, but how they get there is the difference a leaf car is a more violent drive at the speeds you want to be competitive and adjustability is limited and harder to gain... a rear leaf setup with good shocks and a watts link system is very competitive but rough, a link car allows more ease in adjustability .....

roll center adjustment, link car....just turn the coilover collars up or down, moving the car up and down
roll center adjustment, leaf car....change out lowering blocks for different height ones
anti squat adjustment, link car....move arm link up or down
anti squat adjustment, leaf car....pull front leaf mounts off the car and drill holes to angle the springs more (limited by leaf spring box depth)
Lateral stabilization, link car........triangulated 4 link car does not require any. parallel 4 link, 3 link and torque arm use pan hard or watts and it assists in roll center location adding to traction
Lateral stabilization, leaf car......Most don't use it, I used a watts link in my leaf car to plant the rear and help a little with traction

it wont drive like a BMW with bolt on parts....the geometry in a camaro is awful and there are so many other factors, the biggest is weight balance, the cars are incredibly pig heavy in the front

[TANKMASTERJ]

Great suspension education for us newbies. Thanks. That's an easy to grasp explanation
Jason

[Rod]

Great suspension education for us newbies. Thanks. That's an easy to grasp explanation
Jason

thanks ...

[trakday]

True master of these 1st Gen's, thank you for the knowledge!

[Sleeper68]

Leaf cars can track very well... a leaf car and a link car achieve the same results, but how they get there is the difference a leaf car is a more violent drive at the speeds you want to be competitive and adjustability is limited and harder to gain... a rear leaf setup with good shocks and a watts link system is very competitive but rough, a link car allows more ease in adjustability .....

I agree, my car is also leaf sprung and does pretty decent. If only I could drive it to its potential...

roll center adjustment, link car....just turn the coilover collars up or down, moving the car up and down
roll center adjustment, leaf car....change out lowering blocks for different height ones

The roll center is defined by the Watts link or Panhard bar if you have one. For a Wattslink the RC is located at the propellor(AKA bellcrank) pivot position. A panhard bar defines the RC at the intersection of the line drawn between both panhard pivots and the vertical dividing plane of the car.

Since a triangulated 4 link centers itself and is overconstrained, you cannot use a panhard bar or watts link. Other link systems require a centering device such as a 3 link or a torque arm.



IMO a leaf sprung car should always be paired with a Watts link if you are serious about trackday/autocross performance.