1971 Cutlass S Pro-Touring car for sale

[SparkyRnD]

I’ve decided to sell my 1971 Cutlass S pro-touring style car. The concept of this build was to create a car that could handle most any racetrack, autocross course, curvy mountain road, and also be fun driving around town or taking trips in. It took about 6 years to build and has been on the road for just shy of 3 years since being roadworthy (about 2500 miles total).

The project started with a bone-stock 1971 Olds Cutlass ‘S’ I bought from North Georgia. I bought it from the nephew of the original owner, and it was in great shape (I looked at about 3 dozen cars over 18 months that were anything BUT decent). We stripped the car down to bare metal and separated the body from the chassis. We were very lucky to have found only 3 or so small coin-sized spots of rust which were removed and replaced with new metal. The chassis was sent to ProCryo in Cumming to be media blasted and then powder coated black.

The original drivetrain, suspension and interior were removed and sold off. We replaced the engine with an LS from a 2003 Chevy Express Van and a T-56 6-speed manual transmission from a 2002 Camaro, and an 8.8 rear axle from a 1995 Ford Explorer (yes, you read that right, a GM car with a Ford rear axle!).

The 6.0L LS engine was built by a friend at the Napa Machine Shop on Peachtree Industrial Blvd, whom we’ve had dozens of racing engines built through. We used a Comp Cams camshaft and upgraded springs, pushrods, etc. The cam is an XFI RPM High Lift Camshafts p/n 54-428-11, which is a Hydraulic roller tappet style. Here are the cam specs:
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:228
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:230
Duration at 050 inch Lift:228 int./230 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:281
Advertised Exhaust Duration:283
Advertised Duration:281 int./283 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.571 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.573 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.571 int./0.573 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):112
Camshaft Gear Attachment:3-bolt
Computer-Controlled Compatible:Yes
Grind Number:XR281HR

We ditched the factory truck intake in favor of an LS1 intake, to which we added a 90mm ported throttle body and throttle body cap billet plate. This is a drive by cable set-up, as I was never a fan of the delay with the drive by wire style set-up. The oil pan was changed to a Holley low profile conversion oil pan, and we used BMR motor mounts, crossmember and their LS conversion ceramic coated headers. That was rounded out with Borla’s stainless 3” dual exhaust kit all the way back and features Stainless Steel rectangle tips that exit through cut-outs in the bumper (similar to 442 style exits). Rather than going under the frame after passing the rear axle, we cut and sleeved the chassis so that the exhaust would stay tucked up and hidden, for a much cleaner look.

The transmission is a 2002 Chevrolet Camaro T-56 6-speed that was rebuilt and utilizes a Diamond Stage-3 clutch kit. This clutch is amazing! You can daily drive it or really hit it hard and its smooth as silk all the time. It is the perfect combo.

The rear axle is an 8.8 model from a 1995 Ford Explorer. The width is within ¼” of the factory 10-bolt, and comes stock with rear discs, 4.10 gears, 3” tubes and a track-lok posi. For what it would have cost to build the 10-bolt to the same standards would have been around $2,000. This one cost us around $100 plus the welding time to create the brackets to make it a bolt-in swap. We also added a custom billet rear differential cover with reinforcing caps that strengthen the already-strong set-up. These axles in stock form can handle upwards of 800hp! Aside from the different lug pattern for the wheels, this is a PERFECT swap / upgrade. Plus, almost no one has picked up on the differences unless I tell them. Makes for great conversation and really piques people’s interest when you tell them.

For the suspension, the stock stuff had to go. I wanted this car to handle curves as well or better than a newer Corvette, while still providing a super low ride height and to be as comfortable as could be. We went with ridetech’s coil over suspension and StrongArm front sway bar. This is a tried and tested suspension system that works flawlessly. It bolts on, has easily replaceable parts if needed, and can handle anything I can throw at it. I didn’t want to replace one or two parts to just get a lower stance, or replace a few items to make it handle only on the track. I wanted it all: looks / stance, street comfort, and track performance. I couldn’t be happier with this set-up and WILL use it again on future builds. To get it low, we used F-body spindles as they drop it super low, while keeping the ball-joint geometry aligned properly (we used Moog ball joints). We have the car as low as possible, but it still easily clears speed bumps, etc! Nothing worse than seeing a high-end build that can’t go over speed bumps, or scrapes when turning into a driveway. You can also raise or lower the coilovers if you prefer a different ride height.

A MAIN requirement I had for this car is that everything needed to be easily replaceable in most any town. That way if I was autocrossing somewhere 3 or 5 states away and something broke, I could hit up any local auto parts store or pull-a-part yard and get replacements quickly and easily. I wanted to be able to buy any replacement quickly and easily, and not have a 3-10 day wait period while something was made and shipped. That gave me the ultimate in flexibility and ensured I could drive the car the way I wanted, without sacrificing anything (least of which, my wallet). If I break a rear axle shaft, I can get a replacement at every single bone yard for $25-50. Try doing that with a custom Moser rear axle.

Body modifications:
Front fender trim welded on
Marker lens holes welded closed
Hood louvers (decorative) removed, openings cut through hood and made functional (inserts not made yet)
Media blasted and Powder coated frame
Front bumper modified to relocate turn signals to headlights, and old housings modified to be fresh air ducts for brakes
Rear bumper modified to have exhaust cut outs come through bumper. Exhaust routed through frame (sleeved / welded) behind axle to tuck up tight, instead of going under frame
Smoothed firewall
Hidden wires and ac lines (as much as possible)
2016 Ford Brown with metal flake (factory color) and Toyota Venza Gold (factory color)
Raptor liner spray-on bedliner under entire vehicle for sound / temp control
Exterior was cut / buffed by Scott Dargis


Electrical modifications:
Spaghetti Engineering LED Taillight conversion kit
Wipers changed to caddy northstar style, with low, medium, high, intermittent, etc.
New wiring harness bumper to bumper
battery relocated to passenger side in trunk for aesthetics and weight distribution, new heavy cables
Redline lumtronix led front headlights with integral turn signals, and LED city lights
Harness bulkhead fuseblock relocated to glovebox
Pcm mounted passenger floor behind kick panel
Custom tuned PCM by LSxperts and Rome Performance


Brakes / suspension modifications:
C6 Z51 front brakes with fresh air ducts. Rotors were cryo-treated.
Astro van hydroboost with Talon adapter mount (stops faster than you could believe)
Jeep Cherokee steering box and collapsible steering shaft
Kwik power steering pump and bracketry
Rushforth Forged Six-Shooter wheels 19’s front / 20’s rear (gm front / ford rear bolt pattern)
Anti-Theft locking lug nuts
Hawk performance pads
DOT 4 fluid
TIC hydraulic clutch master / slave cylinder
Braided stainless flex lines
New brake hardlines
Kumho Ventus V12 tires
Relocated clutch hydraulic bleeding hose mounted to firewall at master cylinder base


Engine related modifications:
New fuel lines
RnD Fabrication aluminum Heavy Duty LS conversion radiator with steam port
Dual 12” SPAL extreme duty fans (good to 1k hp)
Matching aluminum overflow catch can
Matching aluminum power steering reservoir
Custom metal cooling hoses for radiator
Custom air intake tube with K&N filter
Custom made 25 gallon aluminum fuel cell with truck-mounted fill with in-tank pump
Finch Performance fuel and axle vent canister, mounted behind rear seat in factory location


Interior modifications:
2003 Chevrolet Monte Carlo front bucket seats, manual style
Momo racing steering wheel
Rebuilt gm tilt column
New pedals with Modo pads for racing (raised metal nubs for no-slip)
MB Short throw shifter
Custom billet knob engraved with pattern and car name, Sabre
New glass all around (factory style tint)
New weatherstrip all around
New door locks, ignition cylinder, trunk lock
Custom battery mount
Power Cut off switch
Vintage Air a/c-heat conversion with Gen IV, using stock controls (modified to work with kit)
New Vintage Gauges
Kenwood head unit (bluetooth) with high-end speakers
Leather door panels, and seats (Reupholstered 2003 monte carlo manual seats in front / factory seat in rear)
Morris 3pt seat belts
Schroth Racing harnesses (removable) available, not installed
New headliner and carpet kit
New abs kick panels with speaker pods
Scorpion sound deadening throughout car
New rear view mirror
New door handles (interior and exterior) and gaskets
New window wipes / sweeps / channels
New door seals
New scuff plates
New sun visors and cups
Custom modified trans tunnel

There are probably things I’ve forgotten, as this was a frame off, every nut-and-bolt type of build. If I remember additional items, I’ll provide an update.

We had the car dyno tuned, and it puts down 380hp at the tires (dyno sheet will be included). That means the engine, factoring in a 20% drivetrain loss) is putting out around 475hp. If you want more power, a simple cam change and tune will get you over the 500hp mark (or add turbos, supercharger, etc).

Before, during and after pictures will be included in a leather photo album.

This is a very unique car, from the color to the stance to the wheels and tires, to the performance. In a sea of Chevelles, Camaros and Mustangs, you don’t have to worry about disappearing. You WILL be noticed. For performance, I wanted it to be very streetable, allow me to use all the power on the autocross course, and not overpower it or have it be a smokeshow that couldn’t put power down to the tires. This car is every bit of what I wanted. It gets lots of attention and is an absolute blast to drive in any weather, any condition, on any road.

There are a few things I haven’t gotten to that I planned on doing.

1. Bumpers. The front and rear bumpers are the originals and could be rechromed. After such a long build, I was more concerned with driving and enjoying the car, so I haven’t gotten around to that yet.
2. Hood heat extractors. I planned on designing an extractor that would be machined out of a billet block of aluminum, or possible something fabricated and welded, but never settled on what I wanted, so the openings are just that, open. I reinstalled the factory fake louvers for now.
3. Interior. There are a few items here that I planned on but haven’t gotten to.
   
   1. Trim around the dash. The factory had a cheap plastic trim that surrounded the dash and used plastic push-pins to hold it in place. I wanted to make something out of stainless or aluminum and install it as an accent piece. Should be something that could be done with little fab.
   2. Schroth Rallye 4 ASM Harness System. I have a set of Schroth Rallye 4-pt racing harnesses that connect to the factory rear seatbelts and are removable. This is in case you want to race on a track that requires harnesses. I didn’t like the idea of a permanent harness and wanted something I could remove easily. These are new in the box.
   
   
4. Side mirrors. I haven’t installed any side mirrors, as I keep going back and forth on several styles but never was able to select one that I felt was perfect or fit the body lines to my liking. The rear view mirror is large enough that it hasn’t been an issue, but someone may want that.
5. Grille. The factory grille looks good but could be refinished to be better. The renderings I had done by Jason Rushforth show a different style, but I stopped short of exploring the design and possibilities for the grille (one of those “I’ll eventually get to it” kind of things).

This car is meant to be driven and can easily be driven hard without fear of breaking. We didn’t use cheap parts or cut corners, as I insist my cars are reliable and can take a beating. It is everything I always dreamed I wanted in my ultimate car. It performs fantastically well, and with the hydroboost and C6 brakes, it stops faster than anything I’ve ever seen.

I love the car from front to back, top to bottom. But, with kids that will be in college in a few years, I’m letting my dream car move on to the next person who can love it and enjoy it as much as I have (and hopefully use it more than I have been able to). I can provide as many pictures, videos and details as are necessary. I am also willing to show the car in person (appointment only). It goes without saying that there are no joy rides, no trades, no tire kickers. I only accept cash, however you want to make that happen. I have full title to the car, and final exchange of funds and title will be done at a bank local to me.

The car is being sold as-is where-is, with no warranties either expressed or implied. Buyer is responsible for inspection, asking any questions and understanding what they are buying prior to purchase. There are no refunds, exchanges, do-over’s etc. I have described the car in as much detail as possible, and once you take ownership, it’s yours. I will keep stated value insurance on the car until the moment possession is taken by the new owner, at which point all insurance is the responsibility of the new owner. That way, it’s protected and covered while in my care. All of this is to say, do your homework before you buy. As for if I will sell the car internationally, if you are willing to pay for the vehicle and shipping it, I’ll sell to anyone that will pay for it.

The only thing I ask of the new buyer is to occasionally send me a picture or video of you using and enjoying the car. I would hope that the next owner will drive it and use it like it was intended, and not making it part of a collection that sits (but then again, once I sell it you can do whatever you want with it).

Price is $75k.



The car is located in 30101 (Acworth, GA), about 40 miles NW of the Atlanta Hartsfield Airport. You can PM me here, or email me at [email protected].

[SparkyRnD]

more pics

- - - Updated - - -

Note that on the interior pics, that was before the kick panel speakers were installed (those have since been installed and wiring cleaned up). Also it was recently gone over and fluids / filters changed, etc.

[SparkyRnD]

Here is a link to the original build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...age-Joe/page46

it is the 16th most viewed build thread on Pro-Touring.com with 912 replies and 237,354+ views.