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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2015
      Posts
      20
      Country Flag: United States

      Question on properly bracing your firewall for manual brake setup - 69 Camaro

      Hi Guys,

      I've been a member on this forum for a while. There is so much good information here I typically find the answers to my questions with a little searching and don't feel inclined to create redundant threads. But, I have not seen this question answered.

      SO, here goes! I'd like to know more about firewall flex and manual braking systems, IE how much force it takes to stop the car, and how much reinforcement is needed to make stable/consistent stopping. I've never used manual brakes but hear it's the way to go for superior pedal feel. This car is designed for the weekend drive as well as looking to get into autocross and some sort of amateur racing events.

      How do you brace your pedals and to what degree of reinforcement is needed for proper pedal feel? I'm torn on brake compounds as well.

      In my 69 Camaro I'm installing a Wilwood manual pedal setup with triple master cylinders and balance bar. I have cut out and replaced the driver side of the firewall with 16 gauge steel which looks to be quite a bit stiffer than what was cut out of the car. I will be running 12.88"x 1.1" rotors both front and rear with 6 piston and 4 piston calipers respectively speaking. I also have an 1/8th steel reinforcement plate I'm on the fence about installing to further stiffen the firewall. The brake lines will be 3/16" solid line on the body with steel braided flex line where softer line is required to allow suspension movement.

      So far from my research, this is what I've been able to spec out for a decent braking system:


      - Wilwood pedal setup part#340-11295 - pedal ratio 6.25
      -front brakes are custom - radial mount wilwood 6 piston calipers are part#120-12002/120-12003, piston area 3.46,pad area 8.2, pad volume 3.8
      -rear brake - wilwood kit part#140-9219 - 4 piston calipers, piston area 1.98, pad area 8.2, pad volume 3.8, with additional rear parking brake included
      - front master cylinder 3/4" wilwood part#260-10372
      - rear master cylinder 7/8" wilwood part#260-13074

      My main question is bracing the firewall, but I realize my brake setup will have alot to do that as well. I'm happy to include more info or photos as well.
      Please feel free to fire away with comments, questions, info.

      Thanks guys!



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2020
      Location
      Northern VA
      Posts
      60
      Country Flag: United States
      The 4 ears on the top of the pedal assembly are for mounting. It is up to you to build some sort of structure. Relying solely on the firewall will result in a cracked firewall. Doing it by yourself is a bit of a PITA. You need to get the pedals hung where they are comfortable for you, and than make sure they are level front to back and left to right. The flatter the master cylinders are the better, less likely to get an air bubble stuck in them. Also make sure that the brake pedal has full sing and that the balance bar does not hit anything, like the top of the steering column.

      Ideally you use the dash bar from your roll cage to mount everything to. BUT:

      In the past I've bolted the pedal assembly to some pieces of 1"x1" angle iron than welded some 1" square stock- 1/8" wall, from the area where the cowl meets the kick panel vents back to the 1" angle iron. Usually 2 pieces going from the kick panel area to the pedals and on the other side I've gone to the firewall, after welding a big doubler plate out of 1/8" steel to help spread the load, just be conscious of where your gas pedal needs to go.

      Wilwood makes this, which takes a lot of the guessing out of where to drill holes in the wirewall. https://wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch?q=250-13167

      Speedway motors makes a cheap, weld in version: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Brake...SABEgJ_B_D_BwE

      The TBM brakes website has a to-scale PDF you can print out and use, which is what I did.

      FYI Wilwood and Tilton use the same master cylinder spacing and hole sizes.

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