Hydroboost brake line kit?

[anguilla1980]

Where can I buy a brake line kit to install my hydroboost into my 69 Firebird? I have a Wilwood master and Wilwood proportioning valve. The hydroboost moves it all forward so the existing hardlines won't reach.

I've never made brake lines and have zero of the tools needed to do so. I'm hoping I can buy a flex-line kit for adding hydroboost to go from the more forward location of the brake master to the junctions on the frame.



Thanks!

Alex

[icemanrd19]

Buy a flaring tool and I’m certain after 30min you could do your own.

[anguilla1980]

If I'm going to try that I have a few questions then...

What type of flair am I making? I presume SS lines, what size? What about the screw on ends that go behind the flair? How do I bend the lines to shape, what tool?

Are there any starter kits out there you would recommend that would have the right sizes included for my application?

Thanks

[icemanrd19]

You do not want to start making lines with stainless steel. What I do is buy the factory lines and modify them to work with my car.

[79 Camaro]

Couple ways to skin this cat.

1. Buy a good flare tool and use ni-copp lines from the local auto parts store. Not the steel line. Ni-copp flares like butter. It bends easy and if you mess up is pretty cheap.

2. Bend the lines as needed and then take them to a local repair shop and have them flare the lines.

[anguilla1980]

After some searching, I think I'm going to buy this flare tool from InlineTube: https://www.inlinetube.com/products/tlf02

It looks like my 69 Firebird has 3/16 lines from looking on Camaros.net, does that sound right?

Note taken on the ni-copp lines. Long as they don't expand under the higher pressure of the hydroboost long-term. I would have thought galvanized soft steel if not SS.

So what type of flare do I need to be making (single, double?) and I believe 45 degree is correct, right? Is that right for going from the proportioning valve to the frame?

What size are the screw in fitting I need to buy to use with the 3/16 lines? Does anyone have a link where I can just buy a pack of them?

Lastly, what tool should I buy to be bending the lines?

Thanks

UPDATE: So looking at the page for my Wilwood proportioning valve, it says all 5 inlets and outlets are 3/8-24 female thread inverted flare: https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...emno=260-11179

That means I'm looking at doing 3/8-24 fittings for my 3/16 lines then, right? Like these? https://www.inlinetube.com/products/stn01

Does that also mean I will be making all inverted flares for what I'm doing? InlineTube says that's what those fittings are for.

Sorry for all the questions, I have zero clue WTF I'm doing going into this lol....

Is this tube bender ok? https://www.inlinetube.com/products/...13862768902205


Does everything in my shopping cart look like what I need?

[vette427-sbc]

Yep... a few practice flares and bends and you’ll get the hang of it quick. All of the flares will be 45*, sometimes the junction blocks have a bigger fitting for the rear port, but still use 3/16 line.
And this sounds obvious but don’t forget to put the tube nuts on before you flare... I’ve done that a few times

[anguilla1980]

Awesome, thanks!

I realized I forgot a tubing cutter so I'll add that and place the order.

[79 Camaro]

So here's what has worked for me over the years. I don't know the burst strength of ni-copp line so you may have to look it up. Can't believe it would be problem but do your research. I have use hydro-boosts on a couple projects using regular steel lines. Steel lines aren't galvanized they are zinc coated so salt and oil on your hands can stain it and cause rust after awhile.
Tips on flaring.
1. I have used the flare tool like the one in the red case. For me it was kind of hit a miss. I you decide on SS lines it will not do the job easily. Got tired of this and bought a flare tool from Eastwood. Was about $200. Works great. Follow the instructions it's not rocket science.
2. Using a tubing cutter as it cuts the tube it squishes the tube a bit and the inside needs to be de-burred. I like using a #3 center drill or small counter sink to de-burr to clean up the inside. Now the outside needs to be chamfered. I've done this many times using my belt sander but a nice sharp hand file will work just as well. Just knock the sharp edge off the outside of the tube.
3. As said above put tube nuts on before flaring. You should only need to flare one end of the line after you cut it length.
4. As you are making the flare with the tool add a bit lube like WD40 to the end of the tube. I've plumbed all my projects from front to back using bulk brake lines because I'm too cheap to buy the pre-made kits and all my projects are far from stock and I kind of enjoy doing this kind of stuff.
Good luck with your project.

[anguilla1980]

Thanks for all the tips and advice. I may grab this flare tool instead: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-3...3337/202826744

[vette427-sbc]

The rigid one is nicer than the one from inline tube IMO. Once you get the hang of bending and flaring, you may want to build your own lines from now on... I’ll never use a pre bent line again. I actually enjoy bending up my own lines. This might be one of those buy once-cry-once times where it would be worth it to get a nice flare tool. A lot of people like the Eastwood tool. I have a portable hydraulic flare tool that I love. Some times it’s difficult to tighten down the die on the rigid-style tool in your link if you’re under a car flaring a line that’s already installed.

another thing to be aware of is how tight you clamp the line. Sometimes the nicopp lines are slightly thicker OD and the clamp crushes them if it’s too tight and makes the tube nut not spin freely when it’s seated against the flare. Then if you don’t clamp it tight enough, the line can slip and will give you a bad flare. I would put some tape or a mark on the line to make sure it’s not backing out until you find the sweet spot for how tight to clamp it down.

this is what I have
https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-71.../dp/B007TN15EG

The instructions from 79 Camaro are spot on... tube prep is important and will save frustration.
Nicely bent and routed hardlines are a detail often overlooked but I think it really sets cars apart from average builds

[anguilla1980]

Thanks. I ended up going with the RIDGID tool and all the other stuff from InlineTube. I went with steel instead of the ni-copp lines.

I do see this as an investment and plan on using it to learn and re-do all of my hardlines when I upgrade my brake system again.

It has since come to my attention watching some YouTube videos that not all connections may be 3/8-24, so that complicates things now too. If I run into that, I'll just re-use the connector from the old line.