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    Results 1 to 5 of 5
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2018
      Posts
      433

      What Speakers? 6x9's , mine suck

      Let me start by saying I know nothing a bout car audio. I thought I was doing the right thing by doing all matched Pioneer system. I went with their 6"x 9" 5-Way Coaxial Speakers in the rear and their 5-1/4" 3-Way Coaxial Speaker in the kick panels. The head unit is their XAV-AX3000.
      All I get is treble with minimal base, it sounds like crap. I was told it was because I went with 5 way speakers, IDK.
      What speakers would y'all recommend I switch to or what advice can you give?



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      322
      Country Flag: United States
      Are you just powering the speakers with the head unit, or do you have a separate amp? If you're using the head unit, that's probably the limiting factor. That said, don't ever expect much bass from 5.25" speakers, and 6x9's generally have marginal bass that some people find "good enough" depending on installation / how loud the car is inside due to exhaust, road noise, etc. If you don't want to add a sub, you could make sure your rear shelf (or where ever you have the 6x9's) is well sealed (so air and bass can't "leak") or add sound deadening.

      The fact that the speakers are 5-way shouldn't really matter. They're all tuned for a somewhat linear response regardless of how many tweeters they cram on there. I assume you've played with the head unit's equalizers, time delay, phase, loudness, bass boost, crossovers, etc already? You should be able to dial in the sound so it at least sounds good to you up to the limitations of your hardware.
      - Ryan

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2018
      Location
      Saint Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      87
      Get back to the basics with checking things like polarity and how well the speakers are sealed to the mounting surface/baffle.

      A speaker will have a polarity in that if you hook up the positive side of a small battery like a double A 1.5V or a 9 volt to the positive terminal of the speaker and then connect the negative side of the battery to the speakers negative post, you should hear a click or thump when that last connection is made and when that last connection is broken or removed the speaker will click or thump again. You will also notice the woofer cone moving one way or the other. If things are right with the battery positive to the speaker positive terminal and the battery negative to the speaker negative terminal, then when the circuit is completed with the last of these 4 connections, the speakers woofer should move outward into the listening area. On a 6x9 or small round speaker the magnet on the back the cone should move out and away from the magnet.

      If you have two speakers right next to each other in an area like a rear package shelf and both are properly wired and in phase/polarity, then both will move up and down at the same time which then increases bass response. If one speaker is hooked up backwards, then one speaker is going up while the other is going down which then cancels and reduces bass response.

      Never though test the speaker polarity with the wires also connected to the outputs of the radio or an amplifier. Alway just have the two wires from each speaker to test at.

      The next thing to check is how well the speaker seals against it's mounting surface or baffle. If you have a speaker laying loose like on a seat or on the floor it will be flapping in the breeze with hardly any bass response as the sound from the backside comes around quickly to the front side and basically cancels out any bass response. The more you can do to keep the sound from the backside of the speaker from quickly coming around to the front side the better the bass response.

      On a rear deck, if there are other holes in the deck then these light have to be blocked off or a material like sound deadener laid across those openings to seal them off.

      Jim

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jul 2018
      Posts
      433
      Today I installed Pineer's TS-WX130DA Compact active subwoofer.. and man what a difference

      Aluminum Cone Designed for Compact Body
      Built-In 160 Watts Output Class-D Amplifier
      Digital Bass Control (Selectable Bass Mode: Deep or Dynamic)
      Wired Remote Control (Gain, LPF, Phase, Bass Mode)

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Just 1 More View Post
      Today I installed Pineer's TS-WX130DA Compact active subwoofer.. and man what a difference

      Aluminum Cone Designed for Compact Body
      Built-In 160 Watts Output Class-D Amplifier
      Digital Bass Control (Selectable Bass Mode: Deep or Dynamic)
      Wired Remote Control (Gain, LPF, Phase, Bass Mode)
      In my Cougar I use quality 6.5" components in the front and a small JL audio MicroSub with its own dedicated amp. Even a small subwoofer makes a huge difference. I prefer two speakers in the from and a sub without any rear fill.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
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      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her





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