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    Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5
    Results 81 to 99 of 99
    1. #81
      Join Date
      Mar 2021
      Location
      California
      Posts
      7
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by CarlC View Post
      Sorry guys for the delay. Got hurt a while back and just now getting caught up.

      Erik, I believe you are the person that Northern called me about. Did the controller stay on after the blue wire was completely disconnected from the AC compressor/trinary switch?
      Hi Carl, sorry about you getting hurt! Hope you are ok now.
      Yes, that would be me. I disconnected everything from the unit except the three lugs. The fans come on as soon as power is applied. I tried connecting the blue to to power and ground as well, with no change. Is it possible the PWM circuit is stuck in the "on" phase?

      I am mailing back the unit to get a replacement.

    2. #82
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      If possible, find out what failed in the controller.
      Being that it shares most of its design with DCC controllers, and they are nearly bulletproof, I'm betting it is in the temp sensor since that component is different in operation than the normal DCC part.
      Stay in touch!

    3. #83
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Colton Ca.
      Posts
      613
      Country Flag: United States
      I just had this fan controller fail on a customer car. It's the 3rd one I've installed but only one I've had problems with. At first it wouldn't turn on. Then it would turn on only at 205 degrees or not at all. The car got to hot on the dyno so they had to hook the fans up to direct power to bring the temps down. I looked at everything again after the dyno session and it's still only coming on at 205 or not at all. I'm going to have to send it back......

      Ahmad
      Ahmad B.

    4. #84
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm starting to wonder if the stick-on temp sensor is acting up...

    5. #85
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Colton Ca.
      Posts
      613
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
      I'm starting to wonder if the stick-on temp sensor is acting up...
      You might be right I installed all of them on brand new radiators, sanded the mounted area and cleaned it with lint free rag and acetone.
      Ahmad B.

    6. #86
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Build-It-Break-It View Post
      You might be right I installed all of them on brand new radiators, sanded the mounted area and cleaned it with lint free rag and acetone.
      Sounds like you did it right! Actually I just had the sensor itself in mind, not so much any installation issues, though you can't excuse that altogether either. Can't wait to see what's going on.
      I'm on the fence between this unit and the DCC FK45, which I like for its temperature sensor adjustability

    7. #87
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by asicerik View Post
      Hi Carl, sorry about you getting hurt! Hope you are ok now.
      Yes, that would be me. I disconnected everything from the unit except the three lugs. The fans come on as soon as power is applied. I tried connecting the blue to to power and ground as well, with no change. Is it possible the PWM circuit is stuck in the "on" phase?

      I am mailing back the unit to get a replacement.
      I'm curious to see what happened with this unit. Nothing new?



    8. #88
      Join Date
      Mar 2021
      Location
      California
      Posts
      7
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
      I'm curious to see what happened with this unit. Nothing new?
      I sent the old unit back, and just received a new one today. I don't know if anyone will let me know what the issue was with the first one.

    9. #89
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      Well, let's hope this one is good. I would bet the old one makes its way back into Carl's possession to see what's what. OR to DCC/Brian Baskin, its designer.
      Keep us in the loop on any updates, if you don't mind.
      Thanks man!

    10. #90
      Join Date
      Mar 2021
      Location
      California
      Posts
      7
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
      Well, let's hope this one is good. I would bet the old one makes its way back into Carl's possession to see what's what. OR to DCC/Brian Baskin, its designer.
      Keep us in the loop on any updates, if you don't mind.
      Thanks man!
      I will for sure. I hope we get to find out what the issue was. All the specs on the unit make it sound like it should be pretty hard to use in "the wrong way".

    11. #91
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      Well, let's just hope it was a fluke, whatever it ends up being.

    12. #92
      Join Date
      Mar 2021
      Location
      California
      Posts
      7
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok, got my replacement controller today and it seems to work properly. I can see now that the soft start on the old controller was not working. Now I hear that high-pitched whine as the fans come on. I tested with the temp sensor (using a heat gun) and the aux input.

      Carl - if you are reading this, I do have a question on the ignition cutoff circuit. I will have mine connected to a relay vs. an actual ignition / powered circuit. I am guessing that will not work without a resistor to ground. If so, what is a good value to use? I have some 2W 200ohm guys laying around, or a ton of 1/4W guys if it is a higher resistance.

      Also, if you get your hands on the unit I sent back, I would love to know what the issue with it was.

      Thanks!

    13. #93
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      5,722
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Build-It-Break-It View Post
      I just had this fan controller fail on a customer car. It's the 3rd one I've installed but only one I've had problems with. At first it wouldn't turn on. Then it would turn on only at 205 degrees or not at all. The car got to hot on the dyno so they had to hook the fans up to direct power to bring the temps down. I looked at everything again after the dyno session and it's still only coming on at 205 or not at all. I'm going to have to send it back......

      Ahmad
      Sorry for the troubles Ahmad. It is for sure odd that it only turns on at 205*. When it does come on, does the controller soft-start and vary the fan speed to maintain temperature? Also, what temperature thermostat and what temperature sensor does the car have?

      I did get Mike's back and it had a blown input FET. We don't know why it failed. Getting the controller apart is very difficult since it is an epoxy assembly, and that stuff does not come off easy.

      - - - Updated - - -

      Quote Originally Posted by asicerik View Post
      Ok, got my replacement controller today and it seems to work properly. I can see now that the soft start on the old controller was not working. Now I hear that high-pitched whine as the fans come on. I tested with the temp sensor (using a heat gun) and the aux input.

      Carl - if you are reading this, I do have a question on the ignition cutoff circuit. I will have mine connected to a relay vs. an actual ignition / powered circuit. I am guessing that will not work without a resistor to ground. If so, what is a good value to use? I have some 2W 200ohm guys laying around, or a ton of 1/4W guys if it is a higher resistance.

      Also, if you get your hands on the unit I sent back, I would love to know what the issue with it was.

      Thanks!
      Besides the controller connection, what else is being powered by this circuit/relay?
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    14. #94
      Join Date
      Mar 2021
      Location
      California
      Posts
      7
      Country Flag: United States
      Hi Carl - nothing else is on this circuit. This is an unused fuel pump relay. I have a eRod LS3, and this is a circuit in the fuse relay box, so it was convenient to grab.
      Erik

    15. #95
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      5,722
      Country Flag: United States
      If you want to try a resistor, use something between 2.2k - 10k ohm, 1/4w. One end to ground, one end to the green wire that is attached to the controller/relay.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    16. #96
      Join Date
      Mar 2021
      Location
      California
      Posts
      7
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by CarlC View Post
      If you want to try a resistor, use something between 2.2k - 10k ohm, 1/4w. One end to ground, one end to the green wire that is attached to the controller/relay.
      Excellent. Thanks Carl, will do.

    17. #97
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Colton Ca.
      Posts
      613
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey Carl , the motor has a 185 thermostat. It does soft start. Sometimes it would only come on with the key turned off even tho the unit was wired to direct battery power. It did slowly change speed yes.

      I haven't got the vehicle back because I've been working on another car. I won't have the car back for a couple of months to look at the controller or send it back. It'll just be a headache to remove the box because of the rivets.
      Ahmad B.

    18. #98
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      189
      Country Flag: United States
      Carl...

      I've had some issues with a tiny weeping (a teaspoon) of coolant at the thermostat elbow, I suspect its O-Rings not seating but I'll get it sorted out eventually. Anyway, just a heads up... in the process of draining and refilling I've noticed that while I try to be careful, a few drops of coolant went down the side of the radiator and it immediately wreaks havoc on the sensor, fans go on even though engine is not running and ice cold. Should I smear a glob of clear silicone over the sensor and over to the aluminum? I think once it dries well it'll be functional again. If not I'll peel it off and switch sensors.

      Mike
      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads


    19. #99
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      189
      Country Flag: United States
      Just a heads up on my setup. I've taken a couple of "test rides" of about 30-40 minutes and the new controller does kick on the two fans at around 185-190 with the new 180 EMP/Stewart 301. I did about a two mile section of highway at 65 mph, ran the cloverleaf and double back. Car was at about 200 when I got off the city streets and onto the highway, fans were running, temp dropped to about 195 on the highway, fans continued to run. Local temp was 93 when I went out for the ride. For the past 5-6 years I had run the car with a 160 thermostat and at 65 mph on a hot day like that it would normally run 175-185 as long as I was moving. Get in traffic and it would jump to 210 and over, and that was with the stock fan and radiator. Wondering if I need a 195 sensor so the fans would kick off at 65 mph?

      I haven't covered the sensor with silicon yet because I may change it. But like I said previously, the stick on sensors are affected by any moisture that gets in there. I also installed high density foam all around the radiator to close the gaps between the core support and the radiator.

      Mike

      Mike
      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads


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