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    Results 61 to 80 of 98
    1. #61
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      5,722
      Country Flag: United States
      Vintage Air may have something universal that may work.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    2. #62
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      Thank you Carl, I'll check them out!

    3. #63
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      The binary switch with switching "on" pressures closest to 254psi specified above is Four Seasons #35761 with switching "on" pressure of 235psi, and cutout pressure of 325psi. Would that be acceptable?

    4. #64
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      188
      Country Flag: United States
      Carl (or anyone else using this PWM)... gonna fire it up for the first time today. Question: When the key is in the "ON" position, should I expect the fans to be turning at half speed or will they remain off until the engine warms to 180 degrees?

      Mike
      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads


    5. #65
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,806
      Country Flag: United States
      As far as I know they will be off unless commanded on by the coolant temperature or the AC.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    6. #66
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      As far as I know they will be off unless commanded on by the coolant temperature or the AC.

      Don
      From what I have read and what Carl has said, I believe this is correct.

    7. #67
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      188
      Country Flag: United States
      Everything went OK on the initial startup on Thursday afternoon. Fans were cycling and no leaks LOL. The engine was running a little warm 200-210 and I knew I had to burp the system because I had drained a lot of coolant and replaced all the hoses, the thermostat, the water pump, the radiator and of course the Vintage Air. After I shut the car down the fans ran fro a little while then shut down.

      So yesterday I used one of those funnel gadgets that locks into the filler neck and added about 3/4 gallon (all I had on hand), turned on the heat, and the air bubbles came up. Let it run for 15-20 minutes and temp was about 190 just sitting in the driveway. So then I shut it down, removed the funnel, fluid was about 1" below the top of the core. Put the cap back on and ran it a little more. Temp was hovering between 180-190 and the dual fans went from half speed at 180 to full speed at 190. Then the fans seemed stuck on high speed. I shut the engine down, and the fans continued to run (which I expected) but still at high speed. A while back I set up the upper plumbing and used a KillerGlass tube. I've had them on a couple of rides, love the idea of seeing the coolant actually flowing. Driven thousands of miles with them and never had an issue.

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      I figured I'd wait and see so I decided to move my snow blower out of the garage and back to my lawn shed. Thought it over and said leave it out on the patio bc its still March and up here in Western Mass we've had snow after Easter sometimes. Plus I would want to add stabilizer to whatever gas is in there.

      Got back to the garage and the fans were still running at high speed after 15+ minutes. Turned on the ignition and the temp gauge said 140. So I pulled the two plugs that connect the fans to the PWM. I used Delphi waterproof connectors.

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      The fans shut down, and I grabbed my probe test light, grounded one end, touched the PWM side contacts, they were live. This morning I pulled the plug for the radiator sensor, and checked again... no light. So I'm wondering if its a bad sensor or something is going on inside the PWM. I sent Carl an email with some pix and a video of it running, had to use Mail Drop, haven't heard from him yet.

      Anyone else experience anything weird like this?

      Mike
      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads


    8. #68
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      Is the sensor on the lower end of the tank, below the filler?
      I'm wondering if it's possible some coolant spilled, ran down the tank, and got in the sensor, shorting it.
      I'm not sure that is possible, but just thought of it.

    9. #69
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      188
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes... The sensor is at the bottom of the tank on the passenger's side and the filler cap is maybe 18" above it. Very possible some coolant dripped down, but wouldn't that sensor be waterproof? Its maybe 12" from the ground and although I don't drive in the rain, you'd think it wouldn't be affected by any liquids.

      Mike
      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads


    10. #70
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      My thought on that is that maybe the sensor might be defective in the sense that stray liquids might have shorted it when in fact that should not happen.
      Just shooting from the hip here. Hopefully Carl might chime in with some reality, lol.
      Do you have any pics of the module install? I'm bouncing between this unit and the DCC FK45. I like the temp adjustability on the FK45.

    11. #71
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      188
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
      My thought on that is that maybe the sensor might be defective in the sense that stray liquids might have shorted it when in fact that should not happen.
      Just shooting from the hip here. Hopefully Carl might chime in with some reality, lol.
      Do you have any pics of the module install? I'm bouncing between this unit and the DCC FK45. I like the temp adjustability on the FK45.
      Here's a couple of pix, nothing special. I covered the wires with split seam Tech-Flex braid, made the loom long enough to tuck under the battery tray and be able to pull out to access the connectors. Because I have a rats nest of wiring going on along side the battery, and a pretty big black box module that controls the RS headlight motors, I mounted the PWM on the fender well so I could access it without removing the battery.








      Thats the general layout, the Dual Contour fans seem to be working great, a lot of air is flowing. I think once I resolve what's going on with the PWM, I'm gonna be pretty happy with the setup. The fans are loud at full speed with the hood open and me walking around the car, but at low speed the engine makes more noise than the fans. Time will tell when I'm on the highway LOL. If you have any questions I'll do my best to answer them.

      Mike
      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads


    12. #72
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
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      Much appreciated! The pics also put the physical size in perspective. smaaaalll!
      You did a clean job putting it together. It's amazing how simple the wiring actually is. Much simpler than doing relays! PWM does cost more, but it is such an elegant solution to a simple situation.
      Mike, thanks again for putting up the pics!
      Gary

      Edit- I notice you have A/C. How did you wire that? Compressor+ or binary/trinary?
      I'm thinking of running switched 12v thru a binary to the A/C blue wire on the module.

    13. #73
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      nw phx
      Posts
      135
      is there a comparison between multiple PWM controllers?
      i have been using autocoolguy.com for a few years, and just wondering if there is a better system, or do they all do the same thing. ?
      ...life is too short, live for today, tomorrow isn't guaranteed

    14. #74
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      188
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
      Much appreciated! The pics also put the physical size in perspective. smaaaalll!
      You did a clean job putting it together. It's amazing how simple the wiring actually is. Much simpler than doing relays! PWM does cost more, but it is such an elegant solution to a simple situation.
      Mike, thanks again for putting up the pics!
      Gary

      Edit- I notice you have A/C. How did you wire that? Compressor+ or binary/trinary?
      I'm thinking of running switched 12v thru a binary to the A/C blue wire on the module.
      Gary... The PWM is very small, its less than 3" square and maybe 3/4" thick (I don't have it in front of me). If I didn't have a stainless cover for the area forward of the core support, I probably would've put it there. Here's a diagram of my wiring up front. The only thing missing in this drawing is I wired in a relay to bring 12v switched power to the upper post of the 2-Post Jegs Junction Block. I used a VA Trinary switch and the Blue wire coming from the PWM is connected to the Trinary as is the Compressor wire. The other Blue wire goes to the 12v Switched Post on the Junction Block. I'm sorting out a few minor things and the car isn't road-worthy yet plus this fan thing has to work correctly or Im not getting on the road.

      The Relay setup is fairly simple and it gives me good solid 12v Switched Power right at the junction Block because when the key is turned, current is coming right from the 12v "Hot" post via a 8 AWG 12" wire and its fused as well. I combined a couple of sketches, think this is what I have LOL. Relay and PWM are both mounted in close proximity to the battery, 2-post junction block, and the HD chassis ground.

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      If its puzzling, I apologize... ask any questions and I'll try to give you my best answer.

      Mike
      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads


    15. #75
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
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      Quote Originally Posted by BK2LIFE View Post
      is there a comparison between multiple PWM controllers?
      i have been using autocoolguy.com for a few years, and just wondering if there is a better system, or do they all do the same thing. ?
      Right now there aren't really very many, though it is known that Derale's PWM controller has durability issues, so should be avoided. There are a few others, but with very low amp draw capacity, and really don't apply to the caliber of setup prevalent here.
      Autocoolguy seems to do very well, along with DCC's units.
      DCC (Brian Baskin), along with Carl Casanova of Vaporworx fame co-engineered the unit featured in this thread. If it proves as good as the DCC proprietary units, there should be no issues.
      Hope this helps!

    16. #76
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
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      Thank you Mike! It took a bit of visual untangling, but I got it! LOL
      I see you went via the trinary. Once I figured out how they worked, I deduced that I needed only a binary to enable A/C actuation of the fans. My A/C system already had high/low pressure switch compressor protection, so I saw no reason to interfere with them. I only needed to actuate the fans, and a binary will work nicely, and elegantly.
      Thanks again, Mike!
      This is a great forum!

    17. #77
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      188
      Country Flag: United States
      I've had lotsa' help from this forum and Team Camaro as well. Not only did Carl do his best to explain the wiring to me, but guys like Larry DuBois and many others who are regulars in both forums make them a treasure trove of knowledge and experience. These guys are better than a Chilton's LOL.-Mike
      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads


    18. #78
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by OldTimer View Post
      I've had lotsa' help from this forum and Team Camaro as well. Not only did Carl do his best to explain the wiring to me, but guys like Larry DuBois and many others who are regulars in both forums make them a treasure trove of knowledge and experience. These guys are better than a Chilton's LOL.-Mike
      I have to agree. I'm also on LS1tech, and have learned so much there! Forums like these are great! And now here the education continues.
      I always liken forums to a row of garages where we can browse up and down the row, stopping off to check out projects and shoot a little BS, etc.
      It's a good thing....

    19. #79
      Join Date
      Mar 2021
      Location
      California
      Posts
      7
      Country Flag: United States
      Hi Mike - new user here, Erik. I have just installed one of these units and I am having the same problem. The fans turned on the first time I engaged the A/C input control wire, and have never shut off since. I have removed power a whole bunch of times, waited overnight, etc. I even removed all inputs to the unit except the power, gnd and fan connections. Same thing.
      I spoke with Northern and they said to return it. I am a little more concerned now as this does not seem to be a one-off.
      Did you get your issue resolved?
      Thanks a lot,
      Erik

    20. #80
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      5,722
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      Sorry guys for the delay. Got hurt a while back and just now getting caught up.

      Erik, I believe you are the person that Northern called me about. Did the controller stay on after the blue wire was completely disconnected from the AC compressor/trinary switch?

      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com


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