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    Results 21 to 40 of 112
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      2,838
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Because the only variable output that the Holley can provide is a pwm duty cycle. Carl can answer in more detail.



      Andrew
      Curious because two boxes between a Holley ECU and a brushed fan puts me in just buy a brushless fan mode.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
      Curious because two boxes between a Holley ECU and a brushed fan puts me in just buy a brushless fan mode.
      That's a very good point, as long as those brushless fans fit the radiator. It's a mix of functionality vs. cost.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Location
      Western Mass
      Posts
      227
      Country Flag: United States
      Just a Heads-Up... Northern Radiator is a wholesaler so you can't buy direct from them unless you are a dealer/distributor. I called and they referred me to Keystone Performance in Pennsylvania. Don't know if I'm allowed to post phone numbers, so I won't, but Keystone is a regional distributor. When I called Keystone, they told me the item is not in their system.

      Carl had originally told me this unit would be available through the normal speed parts retailers and Tony at Northern Radiator said they might not yet have it in their (Summit, Jegs, Speedway, etc.) system... he wasn't sure.
      '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
      Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition, CompCams Xtreme Energy XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads


    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,821
      Country Flag: United States
      My apologies that it's taking time to get these parts through the distribution system. CV-19 has not made it easy for companies like Northern to put new products in front of Keystone, Motorstate, Summit, etc., hence the delay. It's frustrating on our side as well.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,821
      Country Flag: United States
      These are available on-line now through Dillon Radiator. https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn...w=pwm&_sacat=0
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      40
      Country Flag: United States

      Anyone using this PWM controller?

      I'm thinking seriously of using this controller to run a 05-07 GM truck fan assembly in my 04 Tahoe.
      I would love to hear from anyone who is now using it in their vehicle.
      Thanks in advance!

    7. #27
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Colton Ca.
      Posts
      623
      Country Flag: United States
      I just installed one on a customers C10 truck recently. The few things I don't like but aren't a deal breaker are, the temp wire is short and the location they require you to mount it doesn't leave a lot of room to route the wire/ temp sender. The temp sender wires seem to delicate but might last. It requires a super tiny diode to be wired in to use ac fans. Seems like this should of been done by manufacturer ahead of time. Id like to be able to mount this box anywhere much like the vaporworks box but it requires you to mount it inside here fan surround between the fans. The box feels cheap but that doesn't say anything about the product because it works. This is all just my opinion so take it for what it is. Not trying to bash it. Id use it again because it works.

      The things I do like is, there's no power surge, the fans come on smoothly, the fans stay on momentarily when you shut the car/ truck off cooling the radiator down, this system worked right out of the box.

      Ahmad
      Ahmad B.

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      40
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Build-It-Break-It View Post
      I just installed one on a customers C10 truck recently. The few things I don't like but aren't a deal breaker are, the temp wire is short and the location they require you to mount it doesn't leave a lot of room to route the wire/ temp sender. The temp sender wires seem to delicate but might last. It requires a super tiny resistor to be wired in to use ac fans. Seems like this should of been done by manufacturer ahead of time. Id like to be able to mount this box anywhere much like the vaporworks box but it requires you to mount it inside here fan surround between the fans. The box feels cheap but that doesn't say anything about the product because it works. This is all just my opinion so take it for what it is. Not trying to bash it. Id use it again because it works.

      The things I do like is, there's no power surge, the fans come on smoothly, the fans stay on momentarily when you shut the car/ truck off cooling the radiator down, this system worked right out of the box.

      Ahmad
      It is not necessary to mount it inside the shroud. It should have come with a hat-shaped bracket to mount it on any flat surface that has some cooling airflow around it to keep the box cool. Also, I never read of any resistor needed in the A/C signal wire, but a diode(included) is needed for the key-on power wire if used.
      Where did you get yours?

    9. #29
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Colton Ca.
      Posts
      623
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
      It is not necessary to mount it inside the shroud. It should have come with a hat-shaped bracket to mount it on any flat surface that has some cooling airflow around it to keep the box cool. Also, I never read of any resistor needed in the A/C signal wire, but a diode(included) is needed for the key-on power wire if used.
      Where did you get yours?
      Oops i meant diode. I'll correct that.


      I got it from northstar i believe off Ebay where I was told to purchase it by Carl himself.
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/Z18350-NORT...EAAOSwLN5e48q-

      It clearly states the box is to mount inside the fan shroud. It didn't say outside was permitted or ok due to air flow.

      I do my installs based on instructions not assumptions, you run into problems down the road not following directions. Number 2 of the instructions is what I went off.

      Mounting it inside the shroud makes the temp sensor wiring to short. With a twin fan set up the mounting points are limited placing the box inside the shroud using the required bracket.

      Ahmad
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      Ahmad B.

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,821
      Country Flag: United States
      I'll discuss with Northern about changing the verbiage. It's no problem to mount the controller to the bracket supplied. Mainly the controller needs to be mounted to something to act as a heat sink. The Northern bracket does that just fine. From an overall cooling area standpoint the plate used in the Camaro is smaller than the Northern bracket. It doesn't take much airflow to keep the controller happy.

      The wiring for the sensor can be extended or, if you would prefer, I can make another sensor assembly with a longer wire. For some applications the wiring may be too long, others too short. It's hard to judge what will work for everyone.

      As for the the size and type of wiring, what dictates that becomes a decision tree based on many factors, primarily the temperature sensor. The sensor needs to be low-mass so that as the temperature on the return tank changes, the sensor changes with it. The higher the mass, the slower the reaction. Too much mass means the sensor is always a ways behind the actual temperature and will cause improper function of the fan speed.

      The wiring for the temp sensor is a duplex pair. There are very few small gauge duplex pair options that meet the UL94 ratings needed that we require. Too large of a wire means putting excess strain on connections and the sensor. Like any wiring job, being careful during installation and providing good support/strain relief goes a long way toward long-term reliability.

      The box is made of Noryl, a GE plastics material. It was chosen due to its excellent electrical resistance properties, high temperature threshold, and easy machinability. We have to have them custom made to meet a minimum order quantity since Noryl is not a normal offering.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      40
      Country Flag: United States
      Good stuff!
      Thank you Ahmad and Carl for replying and clarifying any misconception.
      I think we are mostly on the same page here.
      Ahmad- the diode is for the 12v key-off shutdown wire, not A/C

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      Bakersfield, CA
      Posts
      603
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
      Good stuff!
      Thank you Ahmad and Carl for replying and clarifying any misconception.
      I think we are mostly on the same page here.
      Ahmad- the diode is for the 12v key-off shutdown wire, not A/C
      Hey G, where in central Cali are you? I'm in Bakersfield.
      http://www.TheFOAT.com/92GTA
      1969 Pontiac Firebird
      w/535ci IAII aluminum block, Dailey dry sump, Holley EFI (full road race build). Primer black w/black interior.
      1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/SLP Performance Package. Dark Jade Grey Metallic, grey leather, T-Tops.

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      40
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm just about 6 miles east of Hanford.
      Are you in town or out in the country?

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      Bakersfield, CA
      Posts
      603
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
      I'm just about 6 miles east of Hanford.
      Are you in town or out in the country?
      Ah, so just West of the 99. I used to have a lot of friends who lived in Lemoore over the years. I'm at the very SW of town.
      http://www.TheFOAT.com/92GTA
      1969 Pontiac Firebird
      w/535ci IAII aluminum block, Dailey dry sump, Holley EFI (full road race build). Primer black w/black interior.
      1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA w/SLP Performance Package. Dark Jade Grey Metallic, grey leather, T-Tops.

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Newbury Park, CA
      Posts
      5,821
      Country Flag: United States
      Yep, the diode is to be used only on the green wire if the fans are to turned off at ignition-off. The way it works is that at IGN-OFF the green wire is then effectively attached to ground through various pathways (bulbs, etc) that forces the controller off. I've grown used to and expect the fan in the Camaro to be on, slowly, for a minute or so after key-off. Plus, it's one less thing to wire.

      The AC over-ride can be attached to the compressor clutch or the trinary switch. If connected to the trinary the switched input, which is normally ground, should be changed to IGN+.
      Last edited by CarlC; 10-07-2020 at 06:58 AM.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      40
      Country Flag: United States
      Thank you Carl! Yeah, the power-off thing springs from decades-old paranoia about things being on after shutdown. Dying batteries, etc....

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      40
      Country Flag: United States
      Another angle- any thoughts of putting a temp adjusting pot on these, similar to what DCC uses on his own branded units?

    18. #38
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Colton Ca.
      Posts
      623
      Country Flag: United States
      It looks like a comment was deleted by another member from this thread but he suggested that the option of the temp sensor would be given upon purchase.

      As of right now a sensor with a different temp rating is an add on which doesn't make sense.
      Ahmad B.

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Oct 2020
      Location
      Central Valley, Calif.
      Posts
      40
      Country Flag: United States
      That might have been me. I deleted two posts as I figured the one above more closely aligned with my thinking. I agree, having to buy ANOTHER sensor at additional cost if the 180 one isn't right for the application seems silly.
      DCC's controllers use an adjusting pot to vary temperature. I was wondering if that wasn't possible on this unit.

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Posts
      2
      Quote Originally Posted by CarlC View Post

      The wiring for the sensor can be extended or, if you would prefer, I can make another sensor assembly with a longer wire. For some applications the wiring may be too long, others too short. It's hard to judge what will work for everyone.
      Carl - when you say that the wiring for the sensor can be extended, are you talking about just cutting the terminal off and soldering on an extra length of wire between the sensor and the terminal? If I wanted to make a plug-n-play sensor wire extender, can you direct me to the proper terminal ends? If I know what they are, I might be able to find them from some source (online, NAPA, etc). My controller is in transit to me. Thanks!

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