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    Results 61 to 80 of 123
    1. #61
      Join Date
      Jun 2020
      Location
      TX/MX
      Posts
      72
      Wow!!!
      You're gonna need bigger brakes...lol
      Super



    2. #62
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94
      It’s on the ground again. Good sign.

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      Tuning has begun.

    3. #63
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94

      1964 Corvette Coupe: Twin Turbo Build

      It’s been down the road for the first time. Street tuning continues. I’m headed to Alabama next weekend for a dyno session on Saturday and to finally bring it home. Very excited.


      [youtube]https://youtu.be/9bXqlx5wjz0[/youtube]


      [youtube]https://youtu.be/J6oU1Wx6fgU[/youtube]

    4. #64
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94
      We’re off to the dyno in the morning. Y’all keep your fingers crossed.

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    5. #65
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Good luck. I'm very excited to see the results!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    6. #66
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94
      Well the dyno results are a bit of a mixed bag. Ultimately, we ended up with 600hp and 700tq to the tire at about 9.5lbs of boost. It seems a bit strange to say we’re disappointed with the results, but we are.

      After we reached these numbers, the car just absolutely refused to improve any more, no matter what we changed. Timing is right at 25 degrees and we felt sure that the power numbers would come up as we added timing in, but they didn’t budge at all. Same with fuel...the mixture was rich at about 11.5-11.7, but it didn’t move a single number by leaning it out. No matter what we changed, the numbers didn’t move. At all. The only thing we didn’t do was move up to 12-13 pounds of boost...mainly because it’s at more power than the car can handle as it is.

      So I guess I would say that we’re actually not disappointed at all that the car made 600/700 on 9.5lbs...only that we’re disappointed that it stalled out at that point. There’s a lot of things we can point to, but none of them really matter right now. 600/700 is a stupid amount of power for this car in its current form and it’ll do just fine until I stick an aftermarket chassis under the car. Then we’ll reassess.

      We got driveability tuning to do today and tomorrow and it looks like I can finally bring the car home. Which I’m stoked about. Then I’ll get to the Viking coilovers and rear shocks and firm a few other things up before we go to Panama City Beach next month.
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    7. #67
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Just out of curiosity, what were you expecting at 9.5psi at the rear wheels?
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    8. #68
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Just out of curiosity, what were you expecting at 9.5psi at the rear wheels?
      I may not have said things as clearly as I intended...

      I’m happy with what the car did at 9.5psi. We hoped to push farther but weren’t comfortable given the way the car wasn’t responding to any inputs.

    9. #69
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by _BQ View Post
      I may not have said things as clearly as I intended...

      I’m happy with what the car did at 9.5psi. We hoped to push farther but weren’t comfortable given the way the car wasn’t responding to any inputs.
      If the fueling was good and the spark was optimized without knocking, the only thing to do is raise boost pressure to get more power.
      Last edited by andrewb70; 10-11-2020 at 07:26 AM.
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    10. #70
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      If the filing was good and the spark was optimized without knocking, the only thing to do is raise boost pressure to get more power.
      Yeah, the more we look at it, the more we realize that we’re really maxed out at the boost levels we’re at. It’s probably not responding to changes because it’s maximized at the current level. We’ve got plenty of fuel pump and plenty of injector left. There is no knock retard. I think we’re really in good shape until it’s time to turn the wick up some more.

      In hind sight...I wish we had taken a break and talked through a lot of this while we were there. We were just in a thrash because of a thousand reasons. If we could do it again, we’d dial it up to 12-13psi and see what the response was.

    11. #71
      Join Date
      Mar 2020
      Posts
      199
      Those are good numbers for only 9.5psi.

      You can expect about 20-25 more hp per lb. of boost if you turn it up more.

      600rwhp will easily chew up just about any tire you can fit under that car.

    12. #72
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94

      1964 Corvette Coupe: Twin Turbo Build

      ...

    13. #73
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94
      Ok I don’t know what’s up with getting the video to embed...

      Here’s the link:


      https://youtu.be/rffqmp-t64A

    14. #74
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Thats awesome! If you got 600/700 safely and reliably, I'd say you're doing well. That chassis can't handle that level of power any way. I think its easy to get caught up in chasing glamorous numbers on the dyne, when in reality, it doesn't matter if the car cant put that power to the ground.
      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    15. #75
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Posts
      13
      Very nice build... Great work you and your brother do...

    16. #76
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Glad that you were able to get a great safe tune on the car. Those are some great numbers by the way. It will be a handful haha


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    17. #77
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94
      Making progress on some of the smaller projects for the car now. The Viking front coilover conversion is installed and set up, as well as the Viking smooth body double adjustable rear shocks with fiberglass monospring. The stance looks good and the ride is great, although I’m still learning my way through the adjustments.

      I also finally got my Dakota Digital clock installed and working correctly. That wouldn’t seem like a big deal, but it’s been a bit of a saga. Looks fantastic with the other gauges...
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      I finally broke down and painted the brake booster. It was driving me absolutely crazy...looked so dingy and out of place. It’s a lot better now and doesn’t stick out any more.
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      We’re headed to Panama City Beach for Emerald Coast Cruisin’ this weekend. If any of you are going, stop by and say hello.

    18. #78
      Join Date
      Jun 2020
      Posts
      36
      Quote Originally Posted by _BQ View Post
      Well the dyno results are a bit of a mixed bag. Ultimately, we ended up with 600hp and 700tq to the tire at about 9.5lbs of boost. It seems a bit strange to say we’re disappointed with the results, but we are.

      After we reached these numbers, the car just absolutely refused to improve any more, no matter what we changed. Timing is right at 25 degrees and we felt sure that the power numbers would come up as we added timing in, but they didn’t budge at all. Same with fuel...the mixture was rich at about 11.5-11.7, but it didn’t move a single number by leaning it out. No matter what we changed, the numbers didn’t move. At all. The only thing we didn’t do was move up to 12-13 pounds of boost...mainly because it’s at more power than the car can handle as it is.
      I've read through the entire thread again, because I really like what you've done and also I was looking to see if you mentioned anything about the valve springs.

      If I had to guess about maxing out at 9.5 psi, I'd suspect the valve springs first. You most likely already know this, but unlike naturally aspirated engines, the boost pressure in the manifold, against the back of the valve, makes it difficult to close the valve, so boost with naturally aspirated springs will cause the valves to float. For example with a two inch valve at 10PSI will have over 31 pounds trying to keep it from closing and a 60# spring is now 29#.

      If you've already addressed the springs, the next thing would be a boost leak. You've got some large sealing surfaces and areas, although one would think they only get tighter as the intake manifold expands. Have you tried and static pressure testing? I once had a leak that took what seemed like it took forever to find.

    19. #79
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94
      Quote Originally Posted by DblTrbl View Post
      I've read through the entire thread again, because I really like what you've done and also I was looking to see if you mentioned anything about the valve springs.

      If I had to guess about maxing out at 9.5 psi, I'd suspect the valve springs first. You most likely already know this, but unlike naturally aspirated engines, the boost pressure in the manifold, against the back of the valve, makes it difficult to close the valve, so boost with naturally aspirated springs will cause the valves to float. For example with a two inch valve at 10PSI will have over 31 pounds trying to keep it from closing and a 60# spring is now 29#.

      If you've already addressed the springs, the next thing would be a boost leak. You've got some large sealing surfaces and areas, although one would think they only get tighter as the intake manifold expands. Have you tried and static pressure testing? I once had a leak that took what seemed like it took forever to find.
      Thanks for the suggestions. When I say we maxed out at 9.5psi, I just meant that we decided not to push any farther than that. In hindsight, I think both my brother and I wish we had put some more air to it to see what happens. But again...at 600/700, we were already so far beyond the capabilities of the stock frame and suspension that we decided to stop there.

      With that said...we definitely have a pretty significant restriction in the cylinder head. I mean, it’s an iron World Products Torquer with minimal port work. I feel like with a decent aluminum head and maybe a slightly larger cam, we would carry power a lot further than 6000rpm. So that’s what’s in store for the motor when I finally have a chassis under it that can absorb those power levels. Aluminum heads, maybe a slightly bigger cam, and about 5 more psi of boost.

    20. #80
      Join Date
      Apr 2020
      Posts
      94
      I have dreaded updating this thread, but it’s time.

      I hit a deer in the ‘64. There’s $22k worth of damage. Luckily, it’s completely cosmetic and none of the forced induction stuff or even the radiator or oil cooler setup was damaged. The car needs an entire front clip, which would also, obviously, need paint. But I don’t think I can stomach having the car with a half a new paint job...so this is the part of the story where I start to make the best of a bad situation...

      First off, the entire car is getting a new paint job. I’ll come out of pocket to finish the car, but this is the way. This is the only way.

      I’m also ordering the chassis that the car deserves. Still deciding on which one is right for me, but I think the Chassis Concepts and SRIII are the most likely options for me within my budget. I’ll get the new chassis under it before the car gets painted and finish up with some bigger wheels and big tires. Will have to glass in new oversized wheelwells to make something in the 315-345 range fit.

      I think we’ll finish off the rebirth with a set of aluminum heads and maybe a slightly larger cam that will carry power closer to upper 6000rpm range.

      Stay tuned for version 3.0.

      Happy New Year

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