Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Results 1 to 15 of 15

    Thread: Tko600 csc

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Posts
      154
      Country Flag: Belgium

      Tko600 csc

      Hi All,

      Having issues with getting my CSC (throwout bearing) to engage properly.
      When bleeding the lines there is no air coming out anymore.
      Got pressure on the clutch pedal ( although i do not know what the correct pressure is)

      When pushing the clutch in i can put it in first gear, rough but can just do it.
      Going to second is a struggle.
      Reverse is no option, just cracking sounds.

      Took the the trans off 2 times already, measured everything and it is like the installation guide tells me.

      Anyone has an idea why i am not getting enough pressure for the csc to engage?

      Clutch not engaged



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Lawrenceville, IL
      Posts
      348
      Country Flag: United States
      In the first picture, are you saying the clutch isn't engaged? As in the pedal is down? It would be helpful for me if you can post a picture of the pedal down and up just to see the difference.
      visit us on the web at www.bowlertransmissions.com

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Posts
      154
      Country Flag: Belgium
      First picture is when the pedal is up, so no pressure applied..
      Will take a picture of the bearing when i push the pedal down tomorrow.

      From what i have seen earlier, it is a minimal difference...

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Lawrenceville, IL
      Posts
      348
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok, so what has me concerned is the distance between the clutch fingers and the clutch disc. see the arrow I drew on your pic. (if I'm mis-interpreting what I'm seeing there please let me know) There's no room for the clutch fingers to depress. I'm almost thinking your disc is in upside down. Check out the other pic attached. This is just a standard LS single disc clutch bolted down to the flywheel to mimic it being installed on an engine. Notice how much room is between the fingers and disc.

      Name:  Untitled-2.jpg
Views: 321
Size:  266.9 KB
      Name:  Untitled-3.jpg
Views: 336
Size:  254.5 KB
      visit us on the web at www.bowlertransmissions.com

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Posts
      154
      Country Flag: Belgium
      Will remove the tranmsission later this week, Will give you a shout when done and take more pictures.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Posts
      154
      Country Flag: Belgium
      Removed the transmission today, picture in a step by step fashion.

      Trans removed



      Clutch removed and this is how the clutch plate was installed



      Picture of the CSC fully extend, if i just look at the difference when compressed while the transmission was installed
      it seems that the CSC has enough travel both ways..


      And just a picture of the master cylinder, seems to be okay...
      (when bleeding fluid runs out without issues at the "'airscrew")

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Lawrenceville, IL
      Posts
      348
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm hoping the angles of the pics aren't throwing me off here, but the clutch was installed correctly, and it looks way better when the transmission is out. If you put the clutch and bellhousing back on, how much distance do you have from the bellhosing/ trans mounting surface to the clutch fingers? Then compare that to the how tall the bearing is fully collapsed. It seems to me that maybe some of that spacer needs to come out. Check this video out on setting up a hydraulic bearing, it should help clarify what I'm referring to.
      visit us on the web at www.bowlertransmissions.com

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Posts
      154
      Country Flag: Belgium
      Thanks for the video, done all that as per instructions...
      Measurement from belhousing to clutch fingers is +- 3.6inches ( +- because i measure it in cm, which is 9.3 cm)
      Distance from transmission to bearing is 2.79 inches ( 7.1 cm)
      So difference i am having without spaces is 0.87 inches.

      What they recommend on this one is a difference between 0.125 and 0.375.
      So i had to add spacers on mine to shorten the distance.

      When adding 2 spacers i get to a difference of 0.433.

      So maybe i need another spacer since i am still a little bit away from 0.375 ?
      (seems like such a small difference and the bearing is compressed halfway, but maybe that could be the issue?)

      Getting annoyed by this, last step before i can take it for a drive...

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Lawrenceville, IL
      Posts
      348
      Country Flag: United States
      There's definitely something that's not spaced correctly. I've got another tool attached that we use here when setting up an installation to help determine how to correctly set the spacing on everything. Maybe it will help you as well.

      Name:  set up sheet.jpg
Views: 312
Size:  241.3 KB
      visit us on the web at www.bowlertransmissions.com

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Posts
      154
      Country Flag: Belgium
      Thanks Sir,

      Will check it out soon!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      2,313
      Country Flag: Canada
      How much travel do you have at the master push rod?

      Ken
      If there is a hard way to do something, I'll find it!
      My other car is a Vega.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Posts
      154
      Country Flag: Belgium
      Quote Originally Posted by Kenova View Post
      How much travel do you have at the master push rod?

      Ken
      Hi Ken,

      Waiting for the clutch alignment tool to arrive so i can install everything again and then i can test the travel off the master push rod.
      Will most likely be next week so will keep you posted!

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Posts
      154
      Country Flag: Belgium
      Just got it all installed again,

      Travel from the pushrod is 1.2inch, ( recommended is 1.4 inch).
      I can push the pedal down with some force and can shift in all gears but only at the end of the pedal which takes some effort.

      I notice when i push the pedal down the pushrod goes straight in the cylinder for the first half of the distance,
      then it starts getting more pushed down, downward forward motion.

      Not really sure how to fix this, pushrod when not connected lines up perfectly next to the pedal opening...

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      The geometry of your pushrod is likely off. I am not sure what sort of arrangement you are using for the MC mount, but on my 67 Cougar I used a kit from Modern Driveline. It works great.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Posts
      154
      Country Flag: Belgium
      Hi Andrew,

      Yeah was thinking something like that, just need to adjust the angle i little i think,
      not really sure how to fix that withouth taking the MC off and making another bracket.

      Thinking about making an adjustment to the pedal somehow.

      Cougar's are lovely cars but ****ty to work around the engine bay...







    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com