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    Results 21 to 26 of 26
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Feb 2020
      Posts
      76
      Quote Originally Posted by pitts64 View Post
      The 70 up came from the factory with a decent suspension and its front steer. I think you're crazy to rip all that out of there for a rack. I would go with a Lee 12 to 1, adjustable upper control arms. I've driven over 12 different cars that were converted to the rack and not one of them handled worth a damn. My 69 el Camino with up dated SC&C front, Lee 14:1 @ 30 pounds and Spohn delsphere rears would walk all over every one of them.. The Lee 800 series steering box is lightyears better than any one of those racks. I don't get it?? I'm thinking you guys sell them and are trying to hook suckers on here..



      Dude dont fall for this nonsense, after market racks are 100% crap..
      I probably wasn't going to get it anyways, I just wanted people's thoughts on it, and if anyone had it. I'll most likely get a 9:1 or 12:1 box from lee. I'm not ready to buy it yet though, my car is currently on the side, I just finished painting the bedliner.


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Nov 2020
      Location
      Boston
      Posts
      13
      Hmm, thought this forum would be more progressive. I'm enjoying my new hobby of ripping out the antiquated crap and replacing with modern tech, -AN lines and all!
      Plenty of forums out there for numbers matching blah, blah, blah...

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 69r View Post
      Hmm, thought this forum would be more progressive. I'm enjoying my new hobby of ripping out the antiquated crap and replacing with modern tech, -AN lines and all!
      Plenty of forums out there for numbers matching blah, blah, blah...
      Some would argue that the rack conversion is regressive. A Turn One box would be progressive….

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      IL/TN
      Posts
      909
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 69r View Post
      Hmm, thought this forum would be more progressive. I'm enjoying my new hobby of ripping out the antiquated crap and replacing with modern tech, -AN lines and all!
      Plenty of forums out there for numbers matching blah, blah, blah...
      one must understand applications VS marketing when seeking knowledge, Forums aren't like Fakebook, and looking for validation of a belief will not help improve one's ride
      https://www.protouringf-body.com "doing what they say can't be done"

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Sep 2021
      Location
      Portland, OR
      Posts
      34
      Country Flag: United States
      I found this interesting because I found much of the same "use your old box" type of info when searching for how to fix this crap steering of my 67.

      When I took it for an alignment the guy took me under the rack and pointed at one of my tie rod ends that has obviously hit something. He said we'll align it, it's stable but overall there isn't any slop in anything here.
      Just looks old, greasy and dirty. He also said maybe the pitman arm might be worn a little but nothing he'd be worried about.

      Still the car is all over the place at high speeds. I too looked into R&P to possibly make it steer more like a modern car instead of pinky steer darting BS that was on this car.

      After reading many threads on it, I went deeper into finding the right box & new steering rebuild components. That might result in even more $ but I'm trying to listen to the experts here.
      I used to work at a hot rod shop that sold MII front ends for everything. They used thunderbird R&P both manual and power.

      So I ordered $551 in AGR variable rate steering box, $283 in ProForged steering rebuild links/pitman arm. Only to find it still has bump steer and then off for another $700+ for tru turn and hope that fixes the issue.

      As one poster said above, there is a ton of moving parts. You just have to find the right one that's causing what you don't like. Simplifying the system, setting your own geometry to insure you're links are level to the spindle connections is by no means the right way to go. I don't understand why anyone would want to update the geometry after lowering their car, changing wheel/tire package. The old stuff that was never designed to be used with huge wheels, lowered stance has to be better.

      Personally, I don't know, I drank the kool-aid and went with a box and links. But I do have some common sense and could understand why a R&P might be better after changing so much geometry in the suspension from what the original system was designed for. For now I just hope the route I went will actually make it drive right.

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Des Moines, IA
      Posts
      586
      Country Flag: United States
      Look at it this way. . .

      I'm going to use ridetech parts as an example as I used to run the engineering department there, so I know the parts well.

      First and foremost. . .the wheels don't care what turns them. . .box, R&P, two sticks, whatever.
      In it's most simplistic explanation (this is really only looking at the steering link positions in one plane at a time), but works for now. We can get deeper if we need
      The goal for the inner tie rods is to maintain steering angle throughout suspension compression and extension. If the steering links are in the wrong place in space the wheel will change angle while going through travel (bumpsteer).
      The outer steering pivots are for ackerman. . .the difference in steering angle between the inside and outside wheels. The inside tire must have more angle, thereby turning a smaller circle, than the outside tire.


      Let's assume the ridetech TruTurn has the ideal locations for all steering pivots in space.
      Here's the issue you have with a rack. . .
      The inner tie rods on the TruTurn are next to the oil pan. In some cases the tie rods hit the oil pan and cause issues.
      so it looks like this. the "0-----0" represents the inner/outer tie rods; "|______|" represents the oil pan. The drag link goes under the pan, and reaches up the sides to hold the inner tie rods (not drawn):
      *****the forum does not like the formating, so I had to add periods in front of everything to get it to line up. Hope this doesn't make it too hard to see.****
      .....................|....oil.......|
      ..........0-----0 |...............| 0-----0
      .....................|__pan___|

      Now you want to use a rack; "0========0". That's cool. But the pivot points must remain in the same location.
      If you were to install the rack it would look like this:
      .....................|....oil.......|
      ..........0-----0========0-----0
      .....................|__pan___|

      No bueno as it would have to travel through the middle of the pan.
      So most kits mount the rack below the pan and run the steering links uphill:
      .....................|....oil.......|
      .....................|..............|
      ...........0--......|__pan___|......--0
      ................\........................./
      ..................-0========0-
      Also no bueno as the pivot points are no longer in the correct location.

      This is not the case in every vehicle. . .only some. C5+ covettes use a rack. Its located ahead of the engine, just below the centerline of the harmonic balancer.

      Study steering geometry a bit and come up with your own conclusions. Or ask the manufacturer of the steering system pointed questions as to why this is in this place, or technical questions marketing cannot slip around.
      Last edited by marolf101x; 01-31-2022 at 05:32 PM.

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