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Thread: LS offset?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
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    11

    LS offset?

    66 chevy 2. Doing a 6.0 ls swap. Ive realized the factory front clip w/shock towers 'offset's the engine to the pass side approx 3/4". Assume for steering gear box. No longer on factory front clip. Have an ifs w/rack& pinion,adj coilovers. With the custom ifs i have to tack& weld the motor mounts to the x-member. My question is do i need to maintain pass side offset for any reason. Has anyone with a chevy 2 had any issues (brake booster/steering clearances or driveline angle) 'centering' the motor on an ifs front. My rearend will be built to spec so i have room to choose my pinion offset.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Arizona
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    206
    You can put it where ever you want it. Just make stuff fit.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Southern IN
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    Country Flag: United States
    I’m building a 67 Chevy II with a DSE front clip and an LS...I was hoping to put power brakes on it, however, after talking to some who’ve done it, and looking at others’ cars, the booster sits very close to the driver side valve cover/coils (if mounted in the factory location) which could be problematic for removing the valve cover. It’d be worth mocking up the engine, headers, brake booster and drive shaft so you know for sure. You could always cut the mounts loose again and reposition. Another thing to consider is that the driveshaft tunnel on those cars is somewhat narrow so you’d wanna be mindful of that if you move the engine side to side. Id love to see some pics of your build and good luck!
    Shane
    #theanchorholds
    Link to my build thread:
    http://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56387

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
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    11
    I was curious if the 7" booster (speedway motors)would fit....i noticed the small amount of room to the drvr side valve cover & figd that and the 'DD' shaft and joints could be the biggest hurdle. Im jealous of your DSE....looked at em and that was as far as i made it after showing the wife the price tag lol. Im having a new Quick Performance custom 9" built since the old hack job that was in there had waaay too much pinion offset and was kicking my DS angle off (side to side). Ive done a mockup with everything nearly centered (eng block/holley pan/trans/driveshaft) and thats when i realized the pos rearend. Im working on putting together an album to post so hopefully soon that will be up.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Southern IN
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    Country Flag: United States
    Name:  6938F984-9B93-44FD-8549-5CC08DC8CA67.jpg
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    Lol, yeah showing the price tags is always risky! I’ve wondered about the 7” boosters as well but I’m not to the point of engine mock up yet. I talked to DSE initially as I wanted to use their booster/MC setup but they didn’t recommend it due to clearance issues and said they don’t typically do early Chevy II builds with power brakes for the same reason. Below are some pics of what I’ve typically found to be the booster clearance. This screenshot is from a build I found that was SUPER detailed and had lots of great ideas. Not sure what size booster it is but good for reference.
    I used a Baer remaster manual brake MC with 15/16” piston and prop valve on my 68 Camaro and I love it. So that was my backup plan for the Nova as well.
    Shane
    #theanchorholds
    Link to my build thread:
    http://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56387

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    11
    Thats a clean bay in that pic...looks really no bigger than a 7" booster. Did a lil reading last night and seems a manual mc w/prop valve & no/ booster is prob the way to go. Key trick is doing it right. I think im leaning that way.....and to maintain no more than 1/2 total pass side offset on the motor. That way i keep a tad bit of the factory spec on the body(and yesss the ds tunnel is narrow....ive measured set points on the car to find out the entire floor pan & tunnel includes that offset). Right now im using string lines and plumb-bob's to get the front to rear driveline angle as straight as i can. Guy at QP mentioned that 1/2 to 3/4" offset is about standard/normal on older gm vehs, so i think im somewhat on the right track.... 1 step fwd. 3 steps back...gotta love building cars from scratch! Cant wait to get this new 9" in, driveline angle figd & motor mounts set so i can get that fire breathing 6.0 goin!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    281
    I did a LS swapped 67 Nova. I used a manual MC Wilwood recommended by Kore3 and it worked very well. You had to push a little harder on the brakes compared to power brakes but they worked well. I was running C5 brakes all around. If you have any kind of cam in your LS with fairly low vacuum that 7" vacuum booster will be a big waste of time and money.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    11
    Good to know and thanks for the info. Based on responses and research I think the manual mc is gonna be the only way to go. Haven't decided what direction im going on my 6.0 yet but had thought about vac being a problem regardless. From what im hearing and reading, a 15/16 bore w/prop valve is the way to go on a 4 disc setup. Right now fronts are just mild single piston large bore calipers and rears will be same from quick performance. Will possibly upgrade to wilwood calipers down the road but right now want to drop the money other places to get the car up and running.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Indiana
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    I'm doing manual Wilwoods on my 67 as many people I talked to said the clearance issues with a booster, plus the inevitable low vacuum with a medium-large cam, make pressing the pedal a little harder totally worth it.

    1967 Chevy II Nova