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    Results 1 to 15 of 15
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35

      Third Gen Camaro - Project Haircut

      I started a build thread on another Forum, but never started one on Pro Touring. Thought I'd get it up to date here.

      The car is a 1991 Camaro. From the factory it was a V6 auto hardtop weighing 3,126. The goal is lightweight CAM-T and GTL class legal, so minimum 3,000 lbs with a goal of being less than factory curb weight. I'll give more details of the design as I go.

      This car has languished in bad '80's mullet style for too long.

      Yes, those are ghost flame racing stripes!


      ...and that interior!! Looked like a brothel puked inside the car.


      I've been joking that I need to beat the '80's off the car with a sledge hammer and cut it's mullet with a chainsaw. Turns out a heated pressure washer, parts cleaner, shop towels and a scraper are the weapons of choice.





      This is going to take a while



      - - - Updated - - -

      The Camaro went to paint today!


      We'll bolt up the suspension to get it home from paint and parts are still coming in. I'll post some pictures and details of the suspension once I have everything together.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Posts
      87
      Country Flag: Canada
      Nice project.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35
      Thanks!

      The goal is a CAM-T, USCA GTL compliant lightweight that solves the inherent problems with the 3rd Gen platform: chassis flex, antiquated steering with anti-ackerman, high unsprung weight, WAY too low front roll center and too high rear.

      The car will have (sort of front-to-back) an aluminum Firebird front bumper custom fit to the Camaro, lightweight lithium battery, tubular k-member & a-arms with extended ball joints, power rack and pinion that removes the anti-ackerman geometry, billet aluminum hubs, C5/LS1 manual brakes, lightweight double adjustable struts, 18x10" forged wheels, an '82 fiberglass hood, Vintage Air A/C, a lightweight 5-speed, aluminum drive shaft, Rear seat delete, lightweight Zexel Torsen based rear diff. and adjustable LCA, torque arm and panhard bar. I'm considering a polycarbonate rear window, but I need some clarification of the weight restrictions on lexan in the CAM-T Rules.

      From the factory the car was 3,126 with a ~54% front weight balance. Anyone want to take bets where I end up?

      The chassis will be stiffened with subframe connectors, re-enforcement at the custom splined front swaybar, no steering box pushing against the subframe and a STB. Being a late model factory hardtop along with some stitch welding will help too.

      The powerplant will be an L33 LS with a Comp Cam, upgraded valvetrain and manifold.

      I have a few other tricks up my sleeve that I'll get to as I go along.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35
      I rebuilt the rear diff. I combined a 2001 Firebird rear diff and a 3rd gen housing with Moser axels, Richmond Gear 3.73 and a TA girdle.


      The Torsen carrier was in great shape.



      The Third Gen diff not so much. All I wanted was the housing though.




      I modified the drum brake backing plate to accept the LS1 rear disks





      Took me four attempts to shim it up and get a good pattern, not to0 bad. Got it scrubbed up, painted and ready to go!

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35
      A few pics from the paint shop:


      Last weekend I went to the shop for primer inspection. Not many shops will let you go over the primered car with marking tape




      A couple of pics after color and clear. I hesitate to show these since it hasn't been cut and buffed.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35
      Another pic from the paint shop today.


      You can't see it in the pics, but they masked off spots for the subframe connectors to weld in once the chassis has weight on it.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35
      Some bad news from today: when bolting on the k-member to get the car off the rotisserie, they found 5 of 6 bolts lined up and the 6th didn't. He hadn't thought of 4-cornering the k-member and the subframe horns. I had him check and it turns out the subframe is either tweaked 1/8", which I doubt because there absolutely no signs of any previous repairs OR 90's GM quality. I bet it's the latter. The stock k-member bolted up fine. Two of the stock bolts were ~110mm, two were ~9mm. Lots of play there. The aftermarket k-member bolts flush to the frame with 6 - 30mm long bolts.

      So now the has to go to a frame shop post-paint.

      My hope is that with the tweak being only 1/8", subframe connectors, a front steering brace, a solid k-member flange on both sides and the strut tower brace that this won't be a big deal in terms of chassis flex.



      Any opinions on this?


    8. #8
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35
      Quote Originally Posted by RT66ProTouring View Post
      Some bad news from today: when bolting on the k-member to get the car off the rotisserie, they found 5 of 6 bolts lined up and the 6th didn't. He hadn't thought of 4-cornering the k-member and the subframe horns. I had him check and it turns out the subframe is either tweaked 1/8", which I doubt because there absolutely no signs of any previous repairs OR 90's GM quality.
      I determined yesterday that the issue is definitely just manufacturer quality. The locating pins fit perfect, also when properly 4-cornered the measurement is less than 1/16" off. It's the center DS bolt that isn't quite lining up, but not by much. These are captured nuts and there's some play in the adjustment, the locating pins being straight is the critical issue.

      Still working on cutting and buffing, so no complete car pics yet.

      Those 15" mags are looking sweet! j/k

      Here's a pic of the k-member installed, with 5 bolts lol


      UPS delivered these today

      Pretty!!

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35
      Quote Originally Posted by itionted View Post
      What are you planning to replace the red upholstery on the Camaro?
      Ummm, yes. No chance I'd use the stock interior. It looked like a brothel puked inside the car.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35

      Paint Update

      Just got back from the painter. Almost ready to go home!!







      Marked a few places that needed a bit more attention. (The plastics aren't cut & buffed yet either)


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35
      Covid Quarantine Edition

      I've put in more hours working from home the past month than I usually do in the office. That and spring cleaning around the property has kept me from making much progress.

      The car is home from paint and assembly is under way!

      Last edited by RT66ProTouring; 06-06-2020 at 05:22 PM. Reason: spelling

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Posts
      49
      Got any more pictures of the k member and rack setup? It looks interesting

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35
      Quote Originally Posted by steve40 View Post
      Got any more pictures of the k member and rack setup? It looks interesting
      Here you go:





      Most k-member manufacturers offer an optional manual pinto rack mount for the drag racers. I found that a Thunderbird power rack will mount to the same brackets. The problem is the high steering ratio and lack of travel. I will have to shorten the steering arms to reduce the radius. The upside is that due to the curved shape of the steering arms, the reduced length with also reduce the anti-Ackerman geometry.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35
      Made some progress this weekend and my wheels arrived yesterday!

      Note: pay no mind to the loose brake lines in some of the pics. They are laying in there loose in the approximate location for my next project, bake and fuel hard line installation.



      These are BMW wheels and have a center bore that is ~2mm too narrow and a 120mm PDC. I have some router and PDC correction work to do. But, the wheels are the correct offset, 20.9 lbs (which is really pretty good for a 18x10.5 wheel) and not terribly expensive.




      I mocked up the STB this evening leaving enough room for maximum camber plate movement. This thing was pretty nasty when I bought it off another forum. A little sand blasting, painting and 1000 grit sandpaper on the bar and it turned out pretty nice.


      Found dust boots for the extended ball joints. The conventional "wisdom" of the mullet set is that is it's impossible to find a dust boot for Summit extended ball joints. Prothane make a variety and these fit really well.




      Got the adjustable panhard bar and LCA mounts installed. I REALLY do not like these bolt-in adjustable LCA mounts. There is no way this doesn't want to want to rotate around the single bolt under acceleration, they're definitely going to be welded in before I'm done! Also, the kit came with LCA bolts that are too short and 8.8 grade bolts! WTF?

      Last update for this weekend:

      Third gens were built with an offset in the front swaybar bracket. UMI makes a very nice relocation bracket that also allows the use of a steering brace ( a.k.a. Wonder Bar)

      Big front bar is in the works.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Dec 2016
      Posts
      35
      I've been working on hard lines (brakes and fuel) and I should have an update on that soon. Also, the transmission is being built and should ship in the next couple of weeks. That will be a fun update, it's more Ford than GM, can't wait to see the comments

      In the meantime I worked on adjusting the PDC of the wheels from 5x120mm to 5x4.75". The difference is 0.65mm or 0.325mm at each seat.
      (The procedure was not my idea, there is a thread by //<86TA>\\ on Third Gen detailing the process and I did it in a similar manner)

      I used a Neway 60 degree valve seat cutter to recut the seat.


      I turned down a wheel stud to fit the center bore of the cutter, pressed it back into a spare axle from my differential upgrade project.


      Note: What appears to be marks or scrapes on the wheel are actually only a reflection.

      I used a centering ring to get the wheel in the right place. The other lug nuts were just to keep the wheel from tipping and moving around.


      Cutting down the seat about 2.5mm did the trick.



      The next pic may be a little hard to see, but the bottom lug nut was from a shallower cut and has marks on one side because the seat wasn't cut down enough. The top lug nut seated evenly all the way around when torqued to 100 ft-lbs (that's all the torque I could get with the axle and wheel mounted in the vice).





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