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Thread: 1350 yoke depth

  1. #1
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    1350 yoke depth

    Hi All,

    Had a 1310 yoke on my diff, bought a new driveshaft and the guys from the factory advised to go with a 1350 yoke, so i did that.
    Removed the 1310 yoke and wanted to install the 1350.

    The 1310 yoke came of really easy, removed the nut and some gentle (real gentle) tapping with a small hamer and it came off.

    Put the 1350 in place, screw on the nut and this is what it looks like....
    Cannot be right , cannot get that nut to go deeper, have to much thread left.



    Lenght of the 1310 and 1350 are the same,
    Difference is the depth of where the nut goes, 1310 is deeper then the 1350...

    How do i solve this?

    Not
    If have not applied the nut to the correct torque because i could not hold the car in place while i was trying that..

  2. #2
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    Ford 9”? Mine, there are threads protruding past the nut. Is there a washer under it?
    1970 Camaro/DSE build


    Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

  3. #3
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    Ford 9”? Mine, there are threads protruding past the nut. Is there a washer under it?

    Hard to see, but Ford 9 with 1350 yoke.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    1970 Camaro/DSE build


    Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

  4. #4
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    Hi Sir,

    Yes it is a ford 9inch.
    Bought it new with a 1310 yoke and then the "bolt" was going past the nut.
    Install the 1350 and now the 'bolt' is not going past the nut...

    There is no washer under the nut , used the nut that came of with the 1310.

  5. #5
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    This build has been death for some months now, not even sure what was what and what is not...
    Started digging through some photo's i took and see what i found...

    The 1310 next to the 1350 ( i think that 'ring' on the 1350 is a spacer or some sort?)


    So maybe i just need to remove that ring, because that is probably the reason why the 1350 yoke does not slide on deeper?
    Think i just went full retard again struggling with this....


  6. #6
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    No, that's a dust shield to keep crap out of the seal area. The 1350 actually looks cast and your 1310 is billet.

    Is that an aftermarket pinion support? Looks like it and you are also using what looks like a factory style yoke...

    Check this out...probably your issue... Look/Read Picture # 9

    https://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/...-larger-gears/
    1970 Camaro/DSE build


    Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

  7. #7
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    Just read through picture nine,
    this would most likely fix my fitment issue but would give me a new issue.
    If i cut it short below it is going to make the distance between transmission and rear end longer..

    Now this is only marginal distance difference so it probably would not make a difference for the driveshaft.

    Before cutting, sent an email to moser again for more clarity...


    Whole rear end with axles and differential where bought straight from moser.
    Differential came with the 1310 yoke installed.
    So probably everything is aftermarket.

    Ordered the 1350 a while ago also from moser so maybe they sent the wrong one...?

    Again thanks for the help, appreciated!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 70CougarXr7 View Post
    Just read through picture nine,
    this would most likely fix my fitment issue but would give me a new issue.
    If i cut it short below it is going to make the distance between transmission and rear end longer..

    Now this is only marginal distance difference so it probably would not make a difference for the driveshaft.

    Before cutting, sent an email to moser again for more clarity...


    Whole rear end with axles and differential where bought straight from moser.
    Differential came with the 1310 yoke installed.
    So probably everything is aftermarket.

    Ordered the 1350 a while ago also from moser so maybe they sent the wrong one...?

    Again thanks for the help, appreciated!

    yeah I dont recommend cutting anything. I would get the 1350 version of your current 1310 yoke. See how the 1310 yoke is milled lower on the nut seating area? I got my 1350 yoke from Moser too and it looks like your 1310 as you can see in my pics. You have what looks like a OEM yoke. You need their forged chromoly yoke.
    1970 Camaro/DSE build


    Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

  9. #9
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    Thanks man,



    Sent them al the info before purchasing this..
    But i should have showed them how deep the 1310 was..thought it was universal.

    Again, much appreciated.


  10. #10
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    So bought the new 1350 which makes the nut go deeper.
    Torqued it down to 150 ft lbs.

    And now i get this, space between the rearend and the dust cover...
    Don't know wtf is going on there, seems like a simple job no? side it over and torque it down...and yet


    Anyone know what this could be ?

  11. #11
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    Looks like you have another cast yoke rather than a billet yoke.
    Steve Hayes
    "Dust Off"
    68 Camaro

    Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you!
    "Jeremy Clarkson"

  12. #12
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    Yeah its a cast yoke, not worried about that myself to be honest.
    But that gap between the 'dust cover' and diff is what worries me....

  13. #13
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    So long as the yoke is seated against the bearing inside, you should have no problem. The dust shield location is not a big deal. Many yokes do not even have them. The shield just protects the seal from impact damage.
    Steve Hayes
    "Dust Off"
    68 Camaro

    Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you!
    "Jeremy Clarkson"

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJDMan View Post
    So long as the yoke is seated against the bearing inside, you should have no problem. The dust shield location is not a big deal. Many yokes do not even have them. The shield just protects the seal from impact damage.
    Torqued it down to specs so should be fine.
    Appreciate the input!