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    Results 21 to 40 of 47
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Apr 2013
      Posts
      87
      Country Flag: Canada
      As I’m doing more reading a lot of kits from Baer etc. Come with shims to help center the pads to the hub mounting surface, I have never seen anyone discuss this when doing the C5 or LS1 brake swap as my rotors show there is less clamping happening to the rotor as the pad gets closer to the hub, what would case this?
      1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
      - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

    2. #22
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Atlanta Ga
      Posts
      115
      Country Flag: United States
      The shims that Baer is talking about is for a fixed caliper that has piston inboard and outboard. They are shimming the fixed mount caliper so the rotor is center between out board and inboard piston.

      I don't like seeing the pads riding high on the rotor but feel from the picture you are getting full pad contact. It is hard to tell whats happen with just new pads. What do the old pads look like ( inboard and outboard). I'm hearing and seeing the thread name as uneven brake wear. After reading thru the thread again sound like you are stated have a working pedal with some stopping power but not stopping under a panic stop?

      When putting together a system with different matched parts (I do understand a lot of others have with success) will have a lot of variables. Have not seen a picture of your caliper or them mounted but google the 2000 Camaro and these are a inboard piston caliper? If so it should be a floating system, do you know if it has plenty of slide with no obstruction to movement? I do not know the amount it should move but would like to see the thickness of both pads. I would check the rear also for the same if it was modified also. If this has good movement on all four, then you need to look at the mechanical action to the master cylinder and the Hydraulic system.

      Tim

    3. #23
      Join Date
      May 2014
      Location
      Louisville, KY
      Posts
      57
      Country Flag: United States
      Are the the brake caliper bleeders at the top of the caliper when installed? If they are not, you could get air trapped in the caliper. That might cause increased pedal travel and reduced stopping power.

      If the rear aren’t as polished as the front, is your proportioning valve adjustable? Have you tried opening it up to increase rear break pressure?

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Jersey Shore
      Posts
      695
      Country Flag: United States
      It sure looks like both the inside and outside pads both taper up, only grabbing the outside of the rotor. I’m not sure what would cause this other than a non parallel bracket AND a spread caliper. Seems kind of unlikely though...
      You also didn’t mention what pads you’re using? A spread caliper would indicate that you’ve got pressure at the caliper, there’s just not enough bite from the pad.
      -Chris
      '69 Corvette
      '55 Chevy Hardtop
      AutoWorks Middletown, NJ
      @autoworksnj for corvette and shop car pics
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...e-Build-Thread

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      north central Iowa
      Posts
      503
      Country Flag: United States
      since you mention pedal travel before the brakes feel like they are engaging is you master cylinder pushrod adjusted correctly? or long enough for whichever master cylinder style you have?
      72 Nova SS, on the back burner for now.


      current cruiser: "The green machine"

      '70 Impala 4drht, 26K original miles, 2" drop springs and large swaybars, drives pretty good for a land yahct in the middle of an ls1 swap, but thinking about changing directions to a duramax diesel swap.

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Apr 2013
      Posts
      87
      Country Flag: Canada
      Hey guys happy new year.

      The pads are a full ceramic Wagner brand, this is a new setup so I don’t have other pads to compare to. I go out the caliper and measured pad thickness and they are basically wearing even, .581-.576 on the front drivers, .571-.575 on the drivers piston side. Pass side outside .570-.574 and on the piston side .571-.572.

      The passenger side having less variance this lead me to measure distance from the caliper bracket to the rotor. The drivers side top I have 1.278 and the drivers bottom I have 1.154. The passenger has 1.273 bottom and 1.290 top.

      I then measured the rotors to confirm wearing pattern and there appears to be even wear however a dial indicator might show better variance that could match what I am seeing.

      To answer Justanova yes I have confirmed a few times the push rod length and I had a mechanic come in cold to my issue and he also confirmed pushrod length and no air in the system.

      The only thing is maybe my adjustment valve should be set to more pressure to the front but the rear doesn’t lock up before the front and I don’t get a heavy nose dive under braking meaning it’s probably pretty close to 60-50/40-50 biased.

      Yes bleeders are pointing up.

      Yes pads have free movement without binding; but not to much movement that the piston has excessive travel before contact. Example when we were bleeding brakes (pump, pump, pump, hold) i could rotate the rotor by hand during pedal release between the pumps but upon “pump” rotor was not movable.

      Brakes work, the car is confident I can drive it around town and I can slow it down on the highway I’ve never felt unsafe except when I needed to perform an emergency stop. I gave the pedal everything I had and I was slowing down but I knew something wasn’t right as the car stopped better with the drum brakes under that condition.

      To sum up it feels like there is not enough friction between pad and rotor or I don’t have full 100% contact with the rotor as I indicated above and as I see the rotor appears not as worn on the inside edge (along the hat).


      thanks
      1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
      - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

    7. #27
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Posts
      408
      I had some of the same issues as you have on your Camaro.
      You must have the abutment plate centered & Parallel over the rotor.
      Some guys previously posted. about the spread of the caliper, that is
      the same thing Tobin told me.
      My advise would be to contact Tobin at Kore3 and buy the parts from
      him to change to the Corvette calipers. He can tell, you the correct master cylinder
      to use. If you follow Tobins recommendations &you stand on the pedal it will flat spot
      the entire tire tread.The pedal pressure will be like a late model vehicle.
      I am using C5 caliper up front & 94-97 rear rotors & an adjustable proportioning valve
      Thx, Billy

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      Quote Originally Posted by 70chevellemalibu View Post
      Hey guys happy new year.

      The pads are a full ceramic Wagner brand, ...

      Brakes work, the car is confident I can drive it around town and I can slow it down on the highway I’ve never felt unsafe except when I needed to perform an emergency stop. I gave the pedal everything I had and I was slowing down but I knew something wasn’t right as the car stopped better with the drum brakes under that condition.

      thanks
      The pads are an issue, I've had those pads on a car and they acted the same way. Fine around town and such, but when I needed to stop NOW. There was no more stopping power. They just grabbed to a point with no further grab with additional pedal pressure.

      Get yourself some performance street pads. Should be in the $70 - $80 range. Or at least get some semi-metallic pads. And be sure to bed them in.

      Also, hopefully the vacuum booster is at least a dual 9" unit.

      Bob.

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Apr 2013
      Posts
      87
      Country Flag: Canada
      before i move to new C5/C6 calipers I will try to better center the abutment bracket between the rotor.

      what pads would you guys recommend for semi aggressive street driving.

      I have the factory 11" single booster (which was approved by Tobin).
      1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
      - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      I've run StopTech High Performance Street pads in several cars. Been happy with them. StopTech has changed the names of their pads so not sure which ones they now are.

      There are a bunch of performance pad manufactures out there now.

      The single 11" booster is good, IIRC, same boost as a dual 9".

      Bob.

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Apr 2013
      Posts
      87
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by a67 View Post
      I've run StopTech High Performance Street pads in several cars. Been happy with them. StopTech has changed the names of their pads so not sure which ones they now are.

      There are a bunch of performance pad manufactures out there now.

      The single 11" booster is good, IIRC, same boost as a dual 9".

      Bob.
      I went with the semi-metallic AC delcos (same pad spec. that Kore3 has on their website for the C5/C6 pad).

      I'll report back in the spring when I can drive the car again.

      Thanks
      1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
      - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: United States
      I had two of your problems: extremely poor braking during panic stop and no brake lock up/tire slide regardless of how hard I pushed pedal. My setup: Kore3 C5/C6 fronts, LS1 rears, CCP 15/16 manual master cylinder and had GM "performance" Corvette pads (SEMI-METALLIC, ACD #17D731MH) on the front and equivalent type pads on rear, adjustable proportioning valve.

      With that set up, I could never get brakes to lock and car would push through brakes if I applied brakes and gas from stop. Prop valve all the way open and rear would not lock. I bled the MC (bench bled many, many times) and brakes to death many times using a power bleeder and by doing it the old fashion way. Brake pushrod length correct and pedal ratio.

      I tried Performance Friction front pads and that did not help. So, what I did was go with Carbotech AX6 front pads. Huge difference and the front locks now. I just ordered same pads for the rear and hopefully that will help.

      What I did was a band aid and has trade offs - extreme dust on wheels and mild squeal. Carbotech does not recommend the AX6 pads for street for those reasons. Also, the pads are very expensive: about $200 for the front and $150 for the rear.

      Would a 7/8 MC fix the problem? I don't know but doubt it considering a 12% increase in "pressure/brake torque" over the 15/16 MC is not much of a difference given how poorly the car stopped.

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Apr 2013
      Posts
      87
      Country Flag: Canada
      I finally had a chance to get back in the shop. I took apart the drivers side first, i took the spindle right off the car and started from scratch.

      I leveled off the top boss on the spindle with a file, in order for me to have the lower spindle mount and the top spindle mount square i needed a .70 shim at the top boss. Once this was done the caliper bracket was dam close to being square with the rotor in both directions. I then mounted the abutment bracket and worked on getting it equally spaced between the rotor.

      The piston side of the caliper i had .095 from the abutment to the rotor and on the floating side i had .056 between the abutment and rotor, i figure if i use a .015 shim it will be dam close to centered.

      My question is do i really need a .015 shim to get it near perfect or can i leave it as is?

      thanks.
      1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
      - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: United States
      Make any progress?

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Apr 2013
      Posts
      87
      Country Flag: Canada
      Yup she’s all back together.

      Put the spindle in a vise, levelled the hub, installed caliper bracket and filed down the spindle where needed to make the spindle level with the hub and rotor. Once that was done i installed the caliper and shimmed then caliper as needed so that the caliper is square with the rotor at the pad sliders.

      Still winter where I am so I won’t be able to drive it for about 4 weeks or so.

      Thanks
      1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
      - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,155
      Country Flag: United States
      Did I read you have 1" bore MC? That could be part of the weak breaking problem. You can apply more pressure on the brake system with the same pedal pressure with a smaller bore MC. I run a 7/8" bore MC and it is just about right.

      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Given sufficient initial acceleration, even pigs can fly!


    17. #37
      Join Date
      Apr 2013
      Posts
      87
      Country Flag: Canada
      1" was recommended by Tobin at Kore3 and 1" bore is the factory master cylinder size bore on the LS1 camaro, (i am using all LS1 camaro braking components).
      1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
      - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      Ventura County CA
      Posts
      556
      Country Flag: United States
      My setup isn't terribly different from yours. I have C6 calipers and rotors up front with LS1 rear calipers and rotors, 1"master and an adjustable prop valve for the rear, 9" dual diaphragm Tuff Stuff booster. I'm using Hawk HPS pads, which are nothing crazy, and I can lock both front and rear tires with heavy pedal pressure. If you can't lock your tires, something is wrong. When you adjusted the proportioning valve, you should have seen which end locked first and adjusted incrementally until you crossed over, then gotten back to where the front just locks prior to the rear. Are you able to lock either front or rear with heavy braking? Maybe you have the proportioning valve closed off too much such that the front can lock but you aren't getting much pressure to the rear. If that's the case, keep opening the valve until the rear starts to lock before the front and then back off again slightly.

      I found using slow-motion video on my cellphone was really helpful to see which end was locking when.
      Clint - '70 Nova "restomod" cruiser & autocross family car

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Apr 2013
      Posts
      87
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
      My setup isn't terribly different from yours. I have C6 calipers and rotors up front with LS1 rear calipers and rotors, 1"master and an adjustable prop valve for the rear, 9" dual diaphragm Tuff Stuff booster. I'm using Hawk HPS pads, which are nothing crazy, and I can lock both front and rear tires with heavy pedal pressure. If you can't lock your tires, something is wrong. When you adjusted the proportioning valve, you should have seen which end locked first and adjusted incrementally until you crossed over, then gotten back to where the front just locks prior to the rear. Are you able to lock either front or rear with heavy braking? Maybe you have the proportioning valve closed off too much such that the front can lock but you aren't getting much pressure to the rear. If that's the case, keep opening the valve until the rear starts to lock before the front and then back off again slightly.

      I found using slow-motion video on my cellphone was really helpful to see which end was locking when.
      i tried the proportioning valve both directions and the brakes dont lock up in the front (never really tried in the back).

      we just got another 20 cm of snow last night after it all melted, so i wont be able to test my realigning of the calipers for another week or so.

      thanks
      1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
      - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Posts
      56
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
      My setup isn't terribly different from yours. I have C6 calipers and rotors up front with LS1 rear calipers and rotors, 1"master and an adjustable prop valve for the rear, 9" dual diaphragm Tuff Stuff booster. I'm using Hawk HPS pads, which are nothing crazy, and I can lock both front and rear tires with heavy pedal pressure. If you can't lock your tires, something is wrong. When you adjusted the proportioning valve, you should have seen which end locked first and adjusted incrementally until you crossed over, then gotten back to where the front just locks prior to the rear. Are you able to lock either front or rear with heavy braking? Maybe you have the proportioning valve closed off too much such that the front can lock but you aren't getting much pressure to the rear. If that's the case, keep opening the valve until the rear starts to lock before the front and then back off again slightly.

      I found using slow-motion video on my cellphone was really helpful to see which end was locking when.
      Hey Bandit, nice Nova and thanks for posting the info and vid. I have the same problems as the OP and I've had three different master cylinders of different bores on the car. I switched to manual because my engine only has 11" of vacuum at idle and it did not work great with the factory 11" booster (a little more to that).

      I have the same C6 and LS1 combo so I'd assume if I added the dual 9" booster, I'd have similar performance (currently have 15/16 master). Do you know how much vacuum you have at idle and do you have issues with the booster not having enough vacuum with short repetitive heavy braking (ie autocrossing)?

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