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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    80
    Country Flag: Canada
    As I’m doing more reading a lot of kits from Baer etc. Come with shims to help center the pads to the hub mounting surface, I have never seen anyone discuss this when doing the C5 or LS1 brake swap as my rotors show there is less clamping happening to the rotor as the pad gets closer to the hub, what would case this?
    1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
    - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta Ga
    Posts
    97
    Country Flag: United States
    The shims that Baer is talking about is for a fixed caliper that has piston inboard and outboard. They are shimming the fixed mount caliper so the rotor is center between out board and inboard piston.

    I don't like seeing the pads riding high on the rotor but feel from the picture you are getting full pad contact. It is hard to tell whats happen with just new pads. What do the old pads look like ( inboard and outboard). I'm hearing and seeing the thread name as uneven brake wear. After reading thru the thread again sound like you are stated have a working pedal with some stopping power but not stopping under a panic stop?

    When putting together a system with different matched parts (I do understand a lot of others have with success) will have a lot of variables. Have not seen a picture of your caliper or them mounted but google the 2000 Camaro and these are a inboard piston caliper? If so it should be a floating system, do you know if it has plenty of slide with no obstruction to movement? I do not know the amount it should move but would like to see the thickness of both pads. I would check the rear also for the same if it was modified also. If this has good movement on all four, then you need to look at the mechanical action to the master cylinder and the Hydraulic system.

    Tim

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    23
    Country Flag: United States
    Are the the brake caliper bleeders at the top of the caliper when installed? If they are not, you could get air trapped in the caliper. That might cause increased pedal travel and reduced stopping power.

    If the rear arenít as polished as the front, is your proportioning valve adjustable? Have you tried opening it up to increase rear break pressure?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Jersey Shore
    Posts
    620
    Country Flag: United States
    It sure looks like both the inside and outside pads both taper up, only grabbing the outside of the rotor. I’m not sure what would cause this other than a non parallel bracket AND a spread caliper. Seems kind of unlikely though...
    You also didn’t mention what pads you’re using? A spread caliper would indicate that you’ve got pressure at the caliper, there’s just not enough bite from the pad.
    -Chris
    '69 Corvette
    '55 Chevy Hardtop
    AutoWorks Middletown, NJ
    @autoworksnj for corvette and shop car pics
    https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...e-Build-Thread

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    north central Iowa
    Posts
    504
    Country Flag: United States
    since you mention pedal travel before the brakes feel like they are engaging is you master cylinder pushrod adjusted correctly? or long enough for whichever master cylinder style you have?
    72 Nova SS, on the back burner for now.


    current cruiser: "The green machine"

    '70 Impala 4drht, 26K original miles, 2" drop springs and large swaybars, drives pretty good for a land yahct in the middle of an ls1 swap, but thinking about changing directions to a duramax diesel swap.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    80
    Country Flag: Canada
    Hey guys happy new year.

    The pads are a full ceramic Wagner brand, this is a new setup so I don’t have other pads to compare to. I go out the caliper and measured pad thickness and they are basically wearing even, .581-.576 on the front drivers, .571-.575 on the drivers piston side. Pass side outside .570-.574 and on the piston side .571-.572.

    The passenger side having less variance this lead me to measure distance from the caliper bracket to the rotor. The drivers side top I have 1.278 and the drivers bottom I have 1.154. The passenger has 1.273 bottom and 1.290 top.

    I then measured the rotors to confirm wearing pattern and there appears to be even wear however a dial indicator might show better variance that could match what I am seeing.

    To answer Justanova yes I have confirmed a few times the push rod length and I had a mechanic come in cold to my issue and he also confirmed pushrod length and no air in the system.

    The only thing is maybe my adjustment valve should be set to more pressure to the front but the rear doesn’t lock up before the front and I don’t get a heavy nose dive under braking meaning it’s probably pretty close to 60-50/40-50 biased.

    Yes bleeders are pointing up.

    Yes pads have free movement without binding; but not to much movement that the piston has excessive travel before contact. Example when we were bleeding brakes (pump, pump, pump, hold) i could rotate the rotor by hand during pedal release between the pumps but upon “pump” rotor was not movable.

    Brakes work, the car is confident I can drive it around town and I can slow it down on the highway I’ve never felt unsafe except when I needed to perform an emergency stop. I gave the pedal everything I had and I was slowing down but I knew something wasn’t right as the car stopped better with the drum brakes under that condition.

    To sum up it feels like there is not enough friction between pad and rotor or I don’t have full 100% contact with the rotor as I indicated above and as I see the rotor appears not as worn on the inside edge (along the hat).


    thanks
    1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
    - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

  7. #27
    I had some of the same issues as you have on your Camaro.
    You must have the abutment plate centered & Parallel over the rotor.
    Some guys previously posted. about the spread of the caliper, that is
    the same thing Tobin told me.
    My advise would be to contact Tobin at Kore3 and buy the parts from
    him to change to the Corvette calipers. He can tell, you the correct master cylinder
    to use. If you follow Tobins recommendations &you stand on the pedal it will flat spot
    the entire tire tread.The pedal pressure will be like a late model vehicle.
    I am using C5 caliper up front & 94-97 rear rotors & an adjustable proportioning valve
    Thx, Billy

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    338
    Quote Originally Posted by 70chevellemalibu View Post
    Hey guys happy new year.

    The pads are a full ceramic Wagner brand, ...

    Brakes work, the car is confident I can drive it around town and I can slow it down on the highway Iíve never felt unsafe except when I needed to perform an emergency stop. I gave the pedal everything I had and I was slowing down but I knew something wasnít right as the car stopped better with the drum brakes under that condition.

    thanks
    The pads are an issue, I've had those pads on a car and they acted the same way. Fine around town and such, but when I needed to stop NOW. There was no more stopping power. They just grabbed to a point with no further grab with additional pedal pressure.

    Get yourself some performance street pads. Should be in the $70 - $80 range. Or at least get some semi-metallic pads. And be sure to bed them in.

    Also, hopefully the vacuum booster is at least a dual 9" unit.

    Bob.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    80
    Country Flag: Canada
    before i move to new C5/C6 calipers I will try to better center the abutment bracket between the rotor.

    what pads would you guys recommend for semi aggressive street driving.

    I have the factory 11" single booster (which was approved by Tobin).
    1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
    - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    338
    I've run StopTech High Performance Street pads in several cars. Been happy with them. StopTech has changed the names of their pads so not sure which ones they now are.

    There are a bunch of performance pad manufactures out there now.

    The single 11" booster is good, IIRC, same boost as a dual 9".

    Bob.

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    80
    Country Flag: Canada
    Quote Originally Posted by a67 View Post
    I've run StopTech High Performance Street pads in several cars. Been happy with them. StopTech has changed the names of their pads so not sure which ones they now are.

    There are a bunch of performance pad manufactures out there now.

    The single 11" booster is good, IIRC, same boost as a dual 9".

    Bob.
    I went with the semi-metallic AC delcos (same pad spec. that Kore3 has on their website for the C5/C6 pad).

    I'll report back in the spring when I can drive the car again.

    Thanks
    1970 Chevelle Malibu 350 "70 Hell"
    - UMI - Kore3 - LS1 4 wheel discs - Budnik

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    44
    Country Flag: United States
    I had two of your problems: extremely poor braking during panic stop and no brake lock up/tire slide regardless of how hard I pushed pedal. My setup: Kore3 C5/C6 fronts, LS1 rears, CCP 15/16 manual master cylinder and had GM "performance" Corvette pads (SEMI-METALLIC, ACD #17D731MH) on the front and equivalent type pads on rear, adjustable proportioning valve.



    With that set up, I could never get brakes to lock and car would push through brakes if I applied brakes and gas from stop. Prop valve all the way open and rear would not lock. I bled the MC (bench bled many, many times) and brakes to death many times using a power bleeder and by doing it the old fashion way. Brake pushrod length correct and pedal ratio.

    I tried Performance Friction front pads and that did not help. So, what I did was go with Carbotech AX6 front pads. Huge difference and the front locks now. I just ordered same pads for the rear and hopefully that will help.

    What I did was a band aid and has trade offs - extreme dust on wheels and mild squeal. Carbotech does not recommend the AX6 pads for street for those reasons. Also, the pads are very expensive: about $200 for the front and $150 for the rear.

    Would a 7/8 MC fix the problem? I don't know but doubt it considering a 12% increase in "pressure/brake torque" over the 15/16 MC is not much of a difference given how poorly the car stopped.


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