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    Results 1 to 5 of 5
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Posts
      2
      Country Flag: United States

      Chassis for a 59 F100

      Hey guys, so I've gone back and forth with my 59 F100. It was either bolt a new IFS to the old frame and put coilovers in the rear/IRS OR just get a new Chassis all together. After speaking with Roadstershop I think I'm going to go with an entire new rolling chassis. From what Roadstershop says it'll drive like a brand new truck. So, major question is which chassis shop should I go with? Roadstershop, Schwartz, Art Morrison, No Limit, ?



      Roadstershop is probably the most expensive which I don't mind paying if it's worth it. I'm ONLY using this truck for daily driving. I'll be putting an LS3 in it with a 4L80E. Probably have 450-550 hp. I'm a young guy, so I'll get on it every once in a while.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      I have learned over the years (I'm a young guy too) that calling to talk to the guys at each company can often times help make up your mind between how they act in conversation and the info/advice they provide for your particular needs.

      Ultimately, any aftermarket chassis is going to be FAR better than what's in there, but for playing around on the street and daily driving you should be more focused on a simple and strong chassis with modernized suspension geometry. So something with IFS and a 3 or 4-link rear would be sufficient. And splurge for powder coating so it lasts longer.
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      now In Dandridge, Tn.
      Posts
      1,301
      Country Flag: United States
      Mostly, the concept of a new chassis can be split into five areas. 1) Base frame strength. - no reason to bolt high end coil-overs to a mount (or rail) that flexes. 2) Front suspension geometry and components. 3) Rear suspension geometry and components (equally as important as the front) 4) Additional features. Plumbing, engine/trans mounts, exhaust plan, .. is this helping you build a truck, or just a rolling chassis? 5) Available options. Can you get it they way YOU want it, to build YOU'RE dream truck (not someone else's) Sbeck09 is right. Call the builders you are interested in, and a few more. This is a big purchase, so be sure. Some bolt on things can be added later, like big brakes or fancy shocks, but, those may or may not interest you. Other things, Ride height, tire size, and suspension choices, need to be made up front. IRS is great, but will add over 5K to the project. Great if you want it, and for a hard core AX plan that is the new norm. But a 4-bar set up correctly will ride and handle great. Are you going to tow? Drag race? How much HP? - These should all be discussed. Hope that helps www.nolimit.net

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Out of the Burbs of Detroit to SoCal, then onto my ancestral homeland, the woods of Cascadia
      Posts
      1,753
      Country Flag: United States
      Another thing to consider is how long you plan on keeping the truck. For instance I still have my first post college car I bought... in 1979. Over the years, the car has changed configuration a couple times. It's now down for it's last rebuild, and it's alot different than my first changes. So you may want to spend a little more for a flexible (meaning able to make changes, not bend) frame if you plan on keeping the car for a while
      Greg Fast
      (yes, the last name is spelled correctly)

      1970 Camaro RS Clone
      1984 el Camino
      1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
      (Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      583
      Country Flag: United States
      Why don't you put a Coyote in it???



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