Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2017
      Location
      Nashville, TN
      Posts
      97

      Power door lock wiring

      So, it seems that everything I have wired into my car is working, but I cannont get the power door locks working. The car did not originally have power door locks but I got replacement door lock actuators and a gm 3 wire switch from a caddy since I could not find the dash mounted firebird door lock switch. I have searched the internet but the only diagrams I can find don't seem to reference what I need. Who knows, maybe I am missing something. Do I need to run two relays for the switch and 2 for the keyless or can this all be done with 2 relays? Does the below diagram seeName:  Lock Diagram.jpg
Views: 13036
Size:  20.4 KBm right?



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Wylie, Texas
      Posts
      279
      Country Flag: United States
      No it does not. The pole of the switch should connect to ground and the other two terminals of the switch should independently connect to pins 85 and 86 of each relay. When the switch is not being pressed in either direction then the black and light blue wire will be in a disconnected state. When the switch is pushed in one direction or the other then either the black wire or the light blue wire will have 12v while the other wire will still be in a disconnected state.

      What kind of actuator are you using for the locks?

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jul 2017
      Location
      Nashville, TN
      Posts
      97
      The actuators are stock replacements for a ‘78 Firebird. So based on what you are saying should I move the triggers from the switch to the negative pulse wires where the alarm wires connect in the pic or should I remove the 12v+ wires and attaché the trigger wires of the switch to there?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Wylie, Texas
      Posts
      279
      Country Flag: United States
      The switch you are using has one input and two outputs. Connect the input to ground and connect the outputs of the switch to the alarm terminals of each relay. You will also need to connect terminal 87a on both relays to ground.

      For the keyless entry it will depend on whether the output of the controller drives the signal low or high when you press the button on the key fob. But you should be able to get both the manual switch and keyless entry to work with the same two relays.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2017
      Location
      Nashville, TN
      Posts
      97
      Perfect, this makes good sense. Relays rest as energized and the ground signal completes the circuit for either lock or unlock. Thank you for the help

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2018
      Location
      Saint Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      87
      The diagram in your first post does not seem right.

      I "think" what you need to do is this:



      On the above a second 3rd or 4th actuator could be wired in parallel to the first one.

      Basically each wire on the actuator rests on ground and then when the one relay gets activated the ground gets lifted to the actuator and power gets applied to the actuator making it go one way. Then when the one relay goes back to rest and the other relay gets activated the actuator goes the other way.

      Jim

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2017
      Location
      Nashville, TN
      Posts
      97
      Jim I agree with what you are saying. Does anyone have a wire diagram for this? I know enough to understand the theory of how this would work, but when it comes to wiring the relay I get lost. I wire things up like the picture below (both with 87a to ground and without) and I hear the relay clicking, but not change at the door. Can anyone provide a switch and actuator diagram for the GM actuator. I don't now if stock rests at ground or 12v but with way I need some help getting this right.Name:  Alt Drawing.jpg
Views: 3748
Size:  22.3 KB

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2018
      Location
      Saint Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      87
      It looks like the picture I had in my last post is gone so try this for a wiring diagram:

      https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram49.html

      The above is from the12v.com website under relay wiring.

      They also have different scenario's for wiring such as using a positive output switch, a negative output switch, and others.

      I'll be back later to answer things more but for now maybe look over things in the link above.

      Jim

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Wylie, Texas
      Posts
      279
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by rcarson25 View Post
      Jim I agree with what you are saying. Does anyone have a wire diagram for this? I know enough to understand the theory of how this would work, but when it comes to wiring the relay I get lost. I wire things up like the picture below (both with 87a to ground and without) and I hear the relay clicking, but not change at the door. Can anyone provide a switch and actuator diagram for the GM actuator. I don't now if stock rests at ground or 12v but with way I need some help getting this right.Name:  Alt Drawing.jpg
Views: 3748
Size:  22.3 KB
      Terminal 87a of each relay must be connected to ground. You will also need to swap the wires on terminal 30 and 87 on each relay. Sorry I didn't catch that sooner. Then it should work.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2018
      Location
      Saint Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      87
      Quote Originally Posted by blitzer454 View Post
      Terminal 87a of each relay must be connected to ground. You will also need to swap the wires on terminal 30 and 87 on each relay. Sorry I didn't catch that sooner. Then it should work.
      If you have power on terminal 30 and then a ground on terminal 87a then the power wire will either melt it's insulation off of it or the fuse on the power wire will blow as the relay at rest has terminal 30 connected to terminal 87a.

      On the relays, terminal 30 goes to the load or actuator to where when the relay is at rest that leg of the actuator is connected to ground (terminal 30 and 87a connected to each other). When one relay is triggered or activated now the leg of the actuator is removed from ground and connected to the power on terminal 87 (terminal 30 and 87 are now connected together).

      If you follow the link I posted from the12v.com you will see what I described here.

      The next step would be how you want to activate the relays. You can have your lock/unlock switch either throwing power to the relays to activate them or throw a ground to them.

      You tell us how you want to use your lock/unlock switch as to whether you want it to throw power to the relays to lock and unlock the doors or have it to where they throw a ground. We can then help with specific wiring info. Ideally you might choose throwing a ground as most alarms or remote control systems can they be easily added to what you would have in place already.

      Jim

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2017
      Location
      Nashville, TN
      Posts
      97
      This all makes good sense, I did some reading last night (not my favorite past time) to better understand how the relay switches from ground to power. I determined what you told me here to make sense as to resting at negative and them throwing power once the signal, either ground or positive is provided to complete the circuit of the coil. I just could not figure out why pretty much everything I came up with showed a constant 12v to pin 30 instead of to pin 87. Oh well, thank you for confirming , I look forward to having this hooked up an functioning this evening.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jul 2017
      Location
      Nashville, TN
      Posts
      97
      Thanks guys the locks and alarm are working perfect now.





    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com