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    Results 1 to 16 of 16
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Apr 2018
      Location
      Oakland
      Posts
      68

      t56/ls7 clutch - Stiff clutch pedal after bleeding hydro master cylinder

      Very stiff clutch pedal after doing a tradition bleeding. I am getting fluid out the remote bleeder with every pump of my pedal. I am thinking it could be a the master line is disconnected from the slave, but IDK. I am still getting fluids out the bleeder line.

      5.3, T56, used ls7 clutch packaged, f body Dorman slave.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by oakhill510 View Post
      Very stiff clutch pedal after doing a tradition bleeding. I am getting fluid out the remote bleeder with every pump of my pedal. I am thinking it could be a the master line is disconnected from the slave, but IDK. I am still getting fluids out the bleeder line.

      5.3, T56, used ls7 clutch packaged, f body Dorman slave.
      The same issue on mine initially when I bled the traditional way. I had to used a Phoenix systems bleeder right at the MC. I could see the air the trapped in the MC coming out
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2018
      Location
      Oakland
      Posts
      68
      Before you got the air out, your clutch pedal was pretty stiff? I been reading that trapped air makes it spongy/soft. Im going to try bleeding the system first and or move the master rod up an inch before I drop the tranny.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by oakhill510 View Post
      Before you got the air out, your clutch pedal was pretty stiff? I been reading that trapped air makes it spongy/soft. Im going to try bleeding the system first and or move the master rod up an inch before I drop the tranny.
      Yeah, when closed off the bleeder after I thought I had it all out the pedal was hard as a rock. I used what they call the pulse method and I could see the bubbles release. Once that was done, it was great.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Location
      Deployed
      Posts
      3,280
      Country Flag: United States
      A stiff clutch pedal concerns me...it shouldn’t be stiff. If it’s stiff I would be concerned you are over stroking the master cylinder, possibly bottoming out the slave/bearing or over depressing the clutch diaphragm.
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2018
      Location
      Oakland
      Posts
      68
      Yeah, I dont think its suppose to be stiff as well. I'm going to move the master rod up a inch or two. I read that people use the stock zbar location hole on the 69 camaro clutch pedal but then moved it up and had better or softer pedal feel.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      dallas, tx
      Posts
      1,729
      Country Flag: United States
      Let’s see the clutch pedal rod connection.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Lawrenceville, IL
      Posts
      348
      Country Flag: United States
      You may also want to check the pressure plate. If it's one of the OE LS7 replacements made by LUK it could be stuck. We ran into an issue similar to this a while back and the pressure plate was bad. While we were bleeding the hydraulics the pedal just kept feeling like it was super stiff and you could barely push on it unless you opened the bleeder screw, then pedal went to the floor. We took the trans out and the diaphragm "fingers" were half way depressed and wouldn't return. It appeared that the self adjusting part of the pressure plate had malfunctioned and caused it to stick. We were able to reset it and tried it again, exact same thing. So we got rid of it and put a different one on and it was fine. Nothing wrong with the hydraulics.
      visit us on the web at www.bowlertransmissions.com

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2018
      Location
      Oakland
      Posts
      68
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    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2018
      Location
      Oakland
      Posts
      68
      My apologies on the multiple photos. I not sure what happened. Anyways, It's a used factory ls7 clutch with 12k. Hopefully, It's not the pressure plate. I need to go test out my cousin's clutch pedal to compare it. I had use the factory hole for the 4 speed Z-bar. It looks to be pretty straight with the master cylinder. I don't have any more room to move up an inch since I had to enlarge the current rod hole.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      dallas, tx
      Posts
      1,729
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      To me you look about 1/2” to 3/4” to low. The use the factory hole before and the clutch pedal was too low. I moved it up about a 1/2” and now mine is perfect

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Apr 2018
      Location
      Oakland
      Posts
      68
      Thats what I am trying to hear. Giving me hope that my rod its just not high enough. Nobody wants to pull the tranny out once its in the car. In my case, I have to pull the engine with the tranny.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      dallas, tx
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      You can almost see the rod slightly bent already. Move it up 1”

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Apr 2018
      Location
      Oakland
      Posts
      68
      Great news! Had time on my Sunday to move the rod up a bit and dramatically made a difference. Im so glad it wasn't the pressure plate. I moved it up to the stock factory upper hole (my clutch pedal has two factory holes). I wonder what happens if I move it up another 1/2"........ I have control of the clutch pedal return now. I tried to upload a video of me pushing in the clutch pedal bu it won't unload.

      I Guess, I'll be alright in traffic now. Thanks a lot to everyone that replied to my post. Very much appreciated.

      If you guys want to check out my build on IG, my profile is @ 1st_Gen_Camaro_Turbo . You don't have to follow or like anything.
      Attached Images Attached Images        

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      dallas, tx
      Posts
      1,729
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      see i told you lol. Glad to help. Remember KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid. That alignment looks 100x better. make sure you have a nice grommet there on the firewall or tons of heat will come in and noise


    16. #16
      Join Date
      Apr 2018
      Location
      Oakland
      Posts
      68
      Oh yeah, right on!





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