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  1. #1
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    Apr 2018
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    t56/ls7 clutch - Stiff clutch pedal after bleeding hydro master cylinder

    Very stiff clutch pedal after doing a tradition bleeding. I am getting fluid out the remote bleeder with every pump of my pedal. I am thinking it could be a the master line is disconnected from the slave, but IDK. I am still getting fluids out the bleeder line.

    5.3, T56, used ls7 clutch packaged, f body Dorman slave.



  2. #2
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    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by oakhill510 View Post
    Very stiff clutch pedal after doing a tradition bleeding. I am getting fluid out the remote bleeder with every pump of my pedal. I am thinking it could be a the master line is disconnected from the slave, but IDK. I am still getting fluids out the bleeder line.

    5.3, T56, used ls7 clutch packaged, f body Dorman slave.
    The same issue on mine initially when I bled the traditional way. I had to used a Phoenix systems bleeder right at the MC. I could see the air the trapped in the MC coming out
    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
    '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
    Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, SC&C, ATS, Street Rod Designs, Speedhut, KORE3, Ridetech

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  3. #3
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    Apr 2018
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    Before you got the air out, your clutch pedal was pretty stiff? I been reading that trapped air makes it spongy/soft. Im going to try bleeding the system first and or move the master rod up an inch before I drop the tranny.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by oakhill510 View Post
    Before you got the air out, your clutch pedal was pretty stiff? I been reading that trapped air makes it spongy/soft. Im going to try bleeding the system first and or move the master rod up an inch before I drop the tranny.
    Yeah, when closed off the bleeder after I thought I had it all out the pedal was hard as a rock. I used what they call the pulse method and I could see the bubbles release. Once that was done, it was great.
    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
    '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
    Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, SC&C, ATS, Street Rod Designs, Speedhut, KORE3, Ridetech

    Project Motor City Madness

  5. #5
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    A stiff clutch pedal concerns me...it shouldn’t be stiff. If it’s stiff I would be concerned you are over stroking the master cylinder, possibly bottoming out the slave/bearing or over depressing the clutch diaphragm.
    1970 Camaro/DSE build


    Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

  6. #6
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    Apr 2018
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    Yeah, I dont think its suppose to be stiff as well. I'm going to move the master rod up a inch or two. I read that people use the stock zbar location hole on the 69 camaro clutch pedal but then moved it up and had better or softer pedal feel.

  7. #7
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    Let’s see the clutch pedal rod connection.

  8. #8
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    You may also want to check the pressure plate. If it's one of the OE LS7 replacements made by LUK it could be stuck. We ran into an issue similar to this a while back and the pressure plate was bad. While we were bleeding the hydraulics the pedal just kept feeling like it was super stiff and you could barely push on it unless you opened the bleeder screw, then pedal went to the floor. We took the trans out and the diaphragm "fingers" were half way depressed and wouldn't return. It appeared that the self adjusting part of the pressure plate had malfunctioned and caused it to stick. We were able to reset it and tried it again, exact same thing. So we got rid of it and put a different one on and it was fine. Nothing wrong with the hydraulics.
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  9. #9
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  10. #10
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    Apr 2018
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    My apologies on the multiple photos. I not sure what happened. Anyways, It's a used factory ls7 clutch with 12k. Hopefully, It's not the pressure plate. I need to go test out my cousin's clutch pedal to compare it. I had use the factory hole for the 4 speed Z-bar. It looks to be pretty straight with the master cylinder. I don't have any more room to move up an inch since I had to enlarge the current rod hole.

  11. #11
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    To me you look about 1/2” to 3/4” to low. The use the factory hole before and the clutch pedal was too low. I moved it up about a 1/2” and now mine is perfect

  12. #12
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    Apr 2018
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    Thats what I am trying to hear. Giving me hope that my rod its just not high enough. Nobody wants to pull the tranny out once its in the car. In my case, I have to pull the engine with the tranny.

  13. #13
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    You can almost see the rod slightly bent already. Move it up 1”

  14. #14
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    Apr 2018
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    Great news! Had time on my Sunday to move the rod up a bit and dramatically made a difference. Im so glad it wasn't the pressure plate. I moved it up to the stock factory upper hole (my clutch pedal has two factory holes). I wonder what happens if I move it up another 1/2"........ I have control of the clutch pedal return now. I tried to upload a video of me pushing in the clutch pedal bu it won't unload.

    I Guess, I'll be alright in traffic now. Thanks a lot to everyone that replied to my post. Very much appreciated.

    If you guys want to check out my build on IG, my profile is @ 1st_Gen_Camaro_Turbo . You don't have to follow or like anything.
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  15. #15
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    see i told you lol. Glad to help. Remember KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid. That alignment looks 100x better. make sure you have a nice grommet there on the firewall or tons of heat will come in and noise

  16. #16
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    Apr 2018
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    Oh yeah, right on!