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    Thread: Braking issues

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
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      2
      Country Flag: United States

      Braking issues

      I have a 70 Camaro with Wilwood brakes. 6 piston on front and 4 on rear. Small chrome booster/master cylinder was used due to clearance issues. Running a 502. I have driven car about 1,000 miles since completing it. Had a sudden stop situation this weekend and figured out brakes will not stop car. Car slows down and stops under normal conditions, if I jam o. The brakes it slows down gradually instead of locking. Master was bled when installed and system was bled. Scary stuff! Any ideas on what to look at first before I rip it apart and buy hydra stop? See lots of guys running manual brakes and talking pedal ratios, honest I'm lost on that.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
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      15,977
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      Quote Originally Posted by Glorydays70 View Post
      I have a 70 Camaro with Wilwood brakes. 6 piston on front and 4 on rear. Small chrome booster/master cylinder was used due to clearance issues. Running a 502. I have driven car about 1,000 miles since completing it. Had a sudden stop situation this weekend and figured out brakes will not stop car. Car slows down and stops under normal conditions, if I jam o. The brakes it slows down gradually instead of locking. Master was bled when installed and system was bled. Scary stuff! Any ideas on what to look at first before I rip it apart and buy hydra stop? See lots of guys running manual brakes and talking pedal ratios, honest I'm lost on that.
      The first step would be to figure out if your engine is making enough vacuum to make the booster functional. The second is to look at the MC bore size.

      Andrew
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    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
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      2
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      The first step would be to figure out if your engine is making enough vacuum to make the booster functional. The second is to look at the MC bore size.

      Andrew
      I backtracked part numbers on invoices, checked part number to manufacture. Master cylinder is 1 1/8" bore....it was supposed to be 1". Guess that's my issue.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
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      Hamilton, NJ
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      My pads do that cold...
      Scott from NJ.

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    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      1/8" bigger on the MC bore will make a big difference in pedal effort (much more effort required on the bigger bore). Though when you go down to a 1", I think you'll notice significantly more pedal travel though.
      1971 Camaro
      GM HT383, MiniRam EFI, AFR heads
      "8-speed" trans (700R4 + Gear Vendors OD)

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      DFW, Texas
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      422
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      Quote Originally Posted by Glorydays70 View Post
      I backtracked part numbers on invoices, checked part number to manufacture. Master cylinder is 1 1/8" bore....it was supposed to be 1". Guess that's my issue.
      I wouldn't go all that far and say "that's the culprit", 1-1/8" will probably work just fine when it's properly bled, good vacuum and bed-in pads.

      Do you have vacuum assist for one or two strokes after you shut the engine off from an idle?
      1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
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    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      523
      What's the vacuum at idle? I think it takes 12-14 minimum, if you are below that you may to do something different for the booster or go to manual.

      My motor makes under 10 - rather choppy idle. But I'm running a manual set-up.
      1971 Camaro - 406 / T56
      2016 Camaro SS convertible
      2018 Colorado 4x4





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