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    Results 1 to 17 of 17
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      NJ
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      282
      Country Flag: United States

      Your ride is done - how do maintain your showcar finish?

      Specifically I am curious who is using wax vs the new ceramic coatings available today?

      A high quality Carnuba wax will give off a superior shine

      A Ceramic coat will make the car more glossy and glassy

      Do you guys have a preference of one over the other?

      Is it frowned upon to have that glassy look over the Carnuba when being judged sat a car show?

      Getting ready for a big car show at the end of the month and just wondering what ya all have to say from past experience.

      If you have that winning combo and are willing to share, please feel free to post

      Thanks in sdvance
      '68 Chevy Camaro Pro-tour ~ project DMENTD
      '57 Chevy 3100 Pro-tour pickup ~ under construction

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
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      4,495
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      Neither wax nor ceramic for me. Paint needs to breathe for longevity. Good luck if you need a touch up or repair over one of the “quality” ceramic coatings.

      Adams detail spray or something similar should be all that is needed over a quality paint job imho. Kevin won two awards at Goodguys using just Adams on the two Camaros I painted for him.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      NJ
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      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      Neither wax nor ceramic for me. Paint needs to breathe for longevity. Good luck if you need a touch up or repair over one of the “quality” ceramic coatings.

      Adams detail spray or something similar should be all that is needed over a quality paint job imho. Kevin won two awards at Goodguys using just Adams on the two Camaros I painted for him.

      Don
      Reason I was asking is my car was never washed until I blew my water pump back plate gasket. Even though I used the 2 bucket was method, I scratched the paint from washing. The car will need to be re polished. Also I neglected to say that this is a driver and not a trailer queen.

      I did a lot of research and both wax and, from what I've read, ceramic coatings can be easily stripped chemically or with polishing.

      I know you have an extensive background and I do respect your comments so could you please explain in a little more detail please. I feel like I am missing something major here.

      I am also aware paint have to breathe but one thing always perplexed me about that - how do they get away with the new clear film they are applying to new cars? Wouldn't that be the worst thing you could do to paint or even worse a wrap?
      '68 Chevy Camaro Pro-tour ~ project DMENTD
      '57 Chevy 3100 Pro-tour pickup ~ under construction

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,495
      Country Flag: United States
      There is a long discussion on the SPI forum about how hard some ceramic coatings are to remove. Generally the quality ones are tough to remove and make repainting expensive. I trust the guys on that forum, they are not trying to sell me anything and do it for a living.

      I would never apply a clear film over paint.

      My experience is not extensive, I am just relating what I have learned.

      To be honest some better care with how you wash your car and Adams detail spray is my advice to you. Black is a beeotch and it takes a lot of careful attention when washing. Materials and methods.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      645
      My painter guy would say at least 90 days for new paint before waxing. Solvents in the paint need time to cure.

      I like a good wax to make it shiny and also makes it easier to clean after a drive. Lot's of bugs up here in MN. I use the detailer products if the truck is very clean. It may be just be me but it seems like the detailer products seem to attract dust more than just a good wax.

      I've seen the ceramic products in the parts store but never purchased them.

      Either way if you have light swirl marks in the paint it may need a light compounding and then polish. After that a good wax? Wax won't take out swirl marks.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
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      NJ
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      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      There is a long discussion on the SPI forum about how hard some ceramic coatings are to remove. Generally the quality ones are tough to remove and make repainting expensive. I trust the guys on that forum, they are not trying to sell me anything and do it for a living.

      I would never apply a clear film over paint.

      My experience is not extensive, I am just relating what I have learned.

      To be honest some better care with how you wash your car and Adams detail spray is my advice to you. Black is a beeotch and it takes a lot of careful attention when washing. Materials and methods.

      Don
      I totally agree with you on the car washing. I also have a black truck and always get out the foam cannon to get as much dirt off as possible beforehand and to get as much suds as I can on there afterwards before I bucket wash
      Couldn't do that with the Camaro because I was washing it after getting towed home between 12 and 1am.
      Now that I think about, I see where the coating could be a PITA. You would have to strip the entire car to fix one spot because you can't blend into a coating.
      '68 Chevy Camaro Pro-tour ~ project DMENTD
      '57 Chevy 3100 Pro-tour pickup ~ under construction

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      NJ
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      Quote Originally Posted by 79 Camaro View Post
      My painter guy would say at least 90 days for new paint before waxing. Solvents in the paint need time to cure.

      I like a good wax to make it shiny and also makes it easier to clean after a drive. Lot's of bugs up here in MN. I use the detailer products if the truck is very clean. It may be just be me but it seems like the detailer products seem to attract dust more than just a good wax.

      I've seen the ceramic products in the parts store but never purchased them.

      Either way if you have light swirl marks in the paint it may need a light compounding and then polish. After that a good wax? Wax won't take out swirl marks.
      Definitely needs to be compounded. Could most likely get away with a finishing polish.
      My car was painted 2 years ago
      '68 Chevy Camaro Pro-tour ~ project DMENTD
      '57 Chevy 3100 Pro-tour pickup ~ under construction

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
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      Thread about ceramic coatings:

      http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.ph...96/#post-69702

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      DFW, Texas
      Posts
      422
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      Clay bar, polish with a DA and sealed with meguiers ultimate fast finish. Works for me.
      1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
      1976 Dodge D100 - Warlock
      2016 Subaru WRX - E30 Tune

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      645
      It's interesting about the post above and clay bar. When I was doing the body work on my C10 in my body shop guys shop he had a number of late model cars in for pre-summer clean up and after a good wash they started with a complete clay bar of the body. Every inch. Then compound, then polish. They let customer do the waxing.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      DFW, Texas
      Posts
      422
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      Quote Originally Posted by 79 Camaro View Post
      It's interesting about the post above and clay bar. When I was doing the body work on my C10 in my body shop guys shop he had a number of late model cars in for pre-summer clean up and after a good wash they started with a complete clay bar of the body. Every inch. Then compound, then polish. They let customer do the waxing.

      Clay bar is a magical thing, but it is an abrasive, so you'll want to limit how often you do it and do some polishing after. The results are excellent if you've never done it before.
      1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
      1976 Dodge D100 - Warlock
      2016 Subaru WRX - E30 Tune

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
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      My son and I use Chemical Guys products. Very nice products and work well. Also the procedure you wash is important. Chemical Guys have a “cyclone” piece that goes in the bottom of the bucket that helps separate the dirt from the water.

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      NJ
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      Quote Originally Posted by GoodysGotaCuda View Post
      Clay bar is a magical thing, but it is an abrasive, so you'll want to limit how often you do it and do some polishing after. The results are excellent if you've never done it before.
      Clay bars are awesome! Like you said almost magical in a sense. They actually remove all the surface contaminants and make your paint smooth as glass. You can get them in different abrasives as well, but will not remove scratches.
      '68 Chevy Camaro Pro-tour ~ project DMENTD
      '57 Chevy 3100 Pro-tour pickup ~ under construction

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      NJ
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      Quote Originally Posted by minendrews68 View Post
      My son and I use Chemical Guys products. Very nice products and work well. Also the procedure you wash is important. Chemical Guys have a “cyclone” piece that goes in the bottom of the bucket that helps separate the dirt from the water.
      Great point! I always use grit guards in both buckets. If I even have to wash again, I will try the new method of one microfiber cloth per panel
      '68 Chevy Camaro Pro-tour ~ project DMENTD
      '57 Chevy 3100 Pro-tour pickup ~ under construction

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
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      NJ
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      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      Thanks
      '68 Chevy Camaro Pro-tour ~ project DMENTD
      '57 Chevy 3100 Pro-tour pickup ~ under construction

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Posts
      81
      Country Flag: United States
      I used a bunch of things...meguires, pinnacle, etc....The one i like the best is Zaino. Again, I rarely wash my car, just use the quick detailer, and the sealants, etc... Foam cannons, and clay bars are awesome. There are a ton of products out there, but if you keep it clean, and waxed and always use the leaf blower!...no worries.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
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      I give my Cougar a coat of Penetrol, twice a year, whether it needs it or not :-P

      Andrew

      1970 GTO Version 3.0
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      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her






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