68 Firebird Suspension

[Dan Booth]

I am new to this site, so forgive me if this question is repetitive. I bought a 68 Firebird today, and I am looking for a little guidance. It is a nice driver, but I am looking to make some mods, starting with brakes and suspension. In a perfect world, where is the best place to start? I plan on keeping it, and want to improve the driving and handling to start with. Power train is acceptable for now, that will be later.

[ilikeike]

If you're keeping leaf spring type suspension, checkout the ridetech street grip kit, or maybe a kit from Hotchkis
I'm sure wilwood has some brakes that would work for you.

Check out the arrticals on first gen F body cars here.
http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension.htm

[Wall]

I'd start by deciding what your goals are and what you don't like about the current suspension. Next figure out what your budget is. Once you figure these things out you can look at all the options and search the forum. You could do simple things like upgrade your coil springs, leaf springs, shocks, sway bar, and replace any suspension bushings that are worn.

And as Ilikeike said, pozzi racing is a great website for info on first gens.

[BMR Sales]

What will you be using the Bird for and what is your Budget?

[Dan Booth]

An impressive driver. Dependable, comfortable, and nasty. Not racing.
Budget is pretty deep, but I don't wanna spend 30k or I would have bought a restomod already done.

[Dan Booth]

I figured suspension and brakes would be the first place to start, as it handles like a pig right now, and the manual drum brakes are ...unsafe at best.

[968ls1]

Talk to Mark Savitske at SC&C he is a wealth of knowledge. Mark will take the time to understand what you want from your car and recommend a suspension and brake package that will work.

SC&C
610-381-6100

[F-Body International]

From my opinion of your budget/intentions...

Step 1....replace your body mounts with solid aluminum mounts. This will lock your subframe to the body and stop frame-to-body flex.

Step 2....rebuild your control arms with good bushings and ball joints.
https://www.afcoracing.com/store.asp...-69-Camaro----

Step 3....basic lowering kit such as Hotchkis TVS.
https://www.hotchkis.net/product/tvs...8&md=432&sm=20

[BMR Sales]

An impressive driver. Dependable, comfortable, and nasty. Not racing.
Budget is pretty deep, but I don't wanna spend 30k or I would have bought a restomod already done.

No Issues, don't have to spend a lot of cash to get what you are looking for. I would be more than glad to work with you. If you want to look at our Website and give me a call

[anguilla1980]

Subframe connectors should be at the very top of your list along with those solid body mounts. Do nothing until you have the subframe connectors first.

[c4racer2]

Subframe connectors should be at the very top of your list along with those solid body mounts. Do nothing until you have the subframe connectors first.

Agreed

[F-Body International]

Subframe connectors should be at the very top of your list along with those solid body mounts. Do nothing until you have the subframe connectors first.

I disagree. Solid mounts first.

[68Formula]

I disagree. Solid mounts first.

Definitely, what he says.

You don't want to put subframe connectors on with old rubber mounts. One, if they're worn the sub may not be sitting right when you install connectors then it's all going to be permanently crooked. Two, if using weld in connectors, good luck replacing mounts after the fact. Three, you're going to be stressing the body if the front is moving around with old rubber mounts, while the rear body is locked solid to the connectors.

Do nothing until you have the solid body mounts first. Subframe connectors could be second, but make sure you know what your plans are first, as you may decide to change to an aftermarket subframe completely (some aftermarket subframes require a specific subframe connector).

[anguilla1980]

Guys, you install them at the same time which is why I said both. Stop nitpicking for Christ sake lol. Only someone wanting to waste their time would do the solid mounts just to remove the rear ones AGAIN to do the SFCs. Additionally, far as I know, no one sells SFCs with instructions saying it's OK to leave in the rubber ones. Get a grip.

[Dan Booth]

From my opinion of your budget/intentions...

Step 1....replace your body mounts with solid aluminum mounts. This will lock your subframe to the body and stop frame-to-body flex.

Step 2....rebuild your control arms with good bushings and ball joints.
https://www.afcoracing.com/store.asp...-69-Camaro----

Step 3....basic lowering kit such as Hotchkis TVS.
https://www.hotchkis.net/product/tvs...8&md=432&sm=20

3" drop? Won't that be an issue with tire clearance?

[68Formula]

Guys, you install them at the same time which is why I said both. Stop nitpicking for Christ sake lol. Only someone wanting to waste their time would do the solid mounts just to remove the rear ones AGAIN to do the SFCs. Additionally, far as I know, no one sells SFCs with instructions saying it's OK to leave in the rubber ones. Get a grip.

If you've already done the mounts, it's literally less than 20 minutes to replace only the two rearmost ones when adding SFCs. And regardless of what the instructions say, I've seen connectors installed with rubber mounts still in place.

[F-Body International]

3" drop? Won't that be an issue with tire clearance?

The OP never posted his tire size but, yes, that issue can arise if putting springs on to lower your car. Hotchkis also has a 1.5” drop spring. Global West also sells springs in various drops. A different tire can also be installed to accommodate any kit. Most people on this forum want too much suspension they really don’t need and OP said he’s on a budget. That’s why I said solid mounts, rebuilt arms with good bushings and a basic bolt-on lowering kit.

[ilikeike]

3" drop? Won't that be an issue with tire clearance?

I had the 3" drop kit front and back from Hotchkis on my 68 Camaro, 235/40-18 on front, 275/35-18 on back, solid body mounts, subframe connectors, no issues.


I'm going to a 245 on the front now with the same 3" drop front springs. I run 1 deg. negative camber. I'm using a torque arm, coil over,mini tub in back now with a 315.

[cornfedbill]

From my opinion of your budget/intentions...

Step 1....replace your body mounts with solid aluminum mounts. This will lock your subframe to the body and stop frame-to-body flex.

Step 2....rebuild your control arms with good bushings and ball joints.
https://www.afcoracing.com/store.asp...-69-Camaro----

Step 3....basic lowering kit such as Hotchkis TVS.
https://www.hotchkis.net/product/tvs...8&md=432&sm=20

And add the Guldstrand mod. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/cha...e-in-the-turns

Install good street pads from Hawk or similar in factory 11 inch brakes. Rebuild the rear drums with good pads and new hardware.

Unless you plan to race it, don't get crazy. Make it fun to drive and easy to pay for in my opinion.

[Sleeper68]

I am new to this site, so forgive me if this question is repetitive. I bought a 68 Firebird today, and I am looking for a little guidance. It is a nice driver, but I am looking to make some mods, starting with brakes and suspension. In a perfect world, where is the best place to start? I plan on keeping it, and want to improve the driving and handling to start with. Power train is acceptable for now, that will be later.

Call Mark at Savitske Classic and Custom. Great guy. He personally tests every part he sells. He will tell you what you need based on what you want to do.

He has helped me a ton and has no issue talkin gwith you on the phone to help you solve any issues you may have. I'll put his info below.

Mark
SC&C
https://scandc.com/
610.381.6100


Ryan