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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Posts
      440

      Track pad recommendations

      I'll be heading to the track in a couple of weeks for the second time with my 69 firebird. I used my 1st trim to get everything broken in on the 3.6 mile track. The only thing I changed after that uneventful trip was to add a brake booster, since I like the feel of power brakes better. I used the BP10 pads that came with my Aerolite 6-piston fronts and 4-piston rear calipers with Spec-37 rotors all the way around. I'll be pushing the car harder this trip and need some input on stepping up the brake pads with some that hopefully are compatible with my seasoned rotors. Thoughts?
      Joe
      1969 Firebird Project
      1967 Frirebird 400 convertible
      2013 Boss 302

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Jersey Shore
      Posts
      695
      Country Flag: United States
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      https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/Flyers/fl227.pdf

      Helpful pdf on Wilwoods website... I havent seen it before.

      Cant say whether or not a new set of pads will be OK on your seasoned rotors, but I would be bedding them in again, for sure...
      Some of those Alcon temperature stickers may be useful in deciding what you pick for your next, next track day.

      And not related to your Wilwood calipers, but useful info, a Cof vs Temp chart with different Hawk pads.

      https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/629736_x800.webp
      -Chris
      '69 Corvette
      '55 Chevy Hardtop
      AutoWorks Middletown, NJ
      @autoworksnj for corvette and shop car pics
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...e-Build-Thread

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
      Posts
      2,415
      Country Flag: United States
      You can change pads on those rotors fine. Give them a light sand with heavy grit sandpaper and follow the bedding procedures on the new pads.

      For a track oriented pad I highly recommend the BP-30's. They work well on the street and autocross as well but will eat rotors faster than the BP-10's so I'd only put them on for the track. They have high temperature resistance and great modulation. If you overheat your brakes with these pads on, then you either need better fluid or cooling ducts.
      Please Subscribe to the AutoXandTrack YouTube Channel

      Autocross and track blog about running autocross and track events with pro touring cars

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Posts
      440
      Thanks for the input! I am going to order pads today. I have the means to install cooling ducts via the original turn signal area, but havent hooked up the hose yet. I currently run Motul 600 for brake fluid. I can switch back to the BP-10
      's for the street easily.
      Joe
      1969 Firebird Project
      1967 Frirebird 400 convertible
      2013 Boss 302

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Posts
      440
      Swapped out the BP10's for the 30's after scuffing the rotors with 100 grit and a red scotchbrite pad (per Wilwood recommendations). Took the car out for a spin last night to bed the pads in before it gets loaded up to head to Autobahn on Monday. HUGE difference right out of the gate!
      Joe
      1969 Firebird Project
      1967 Frirebird 400 convertible
      2013 Boss 302

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
      Posts
      2,415
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome! Glad to hear initial results look good. I look forward to an update once you hit the track.
      Please Subscribe to the AutoXandTrack YouTube Channel

      Autocross and track blog about running autocross and track events with pro touring cars

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Posts
      440
      Name:  60AB1B7F-6327-4D7D-BC53-93D4BC56B77D.jpg
Views: 154
Size:  236.6 KBName:  832E3F73-94FB-4CF1-BDD0-CA1FEFC2D9A2.jpg
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Size:  423.3 KBBrake pads worked great! I think they are actually putting out less dust than the BP10’s that I was previously using. I didn’t notice any fade even at the end of a 20 minute session. Combined with the DSE booster-master combo, the brakes are 1000%better than the last track day, and I also like the feel on the street better too. I am getting moaning/rubbing sound from the rear pads when I am not moving very fast...almost like a vibration induced noise. Ideas? I was also trying to tweet my brake bias throughout the day as well...any pointers on that? I’ll post up a pix of the rear rotors.
      Joe
      1969 Firebird Project
      1967 Frirebird 400 convertible
      2013 Boss 302

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      Chicago burbs
      Posts
      247
      Country Flag: United States
      I just went through your build thread-great way to run out the clock on a slow friday! Great build, and your other toys are awseome too! I am trying my best to get to Autobahn for the Sept 8th event, but I am a little worried as my front discs are only 11'' with the BP-20's. I'm curious how big your rotors are since you can make it through a session without any fade and no cooling?

      1969 442 6.0L LQ9 T56
      Fab9 w/ custom 3 Link conversion
      FAYS2 Watts link
      Thanks to Mark at SC&C for his honesty and passion for the sport, and Ron Sutton for the wealth of knowledge that has helped shape so many of the cars on this site.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Posts
      440
      I believe the turn signal opening helps with air flow to the brake area. I haven't hooked up any hose yet, but it sitting on the shelf waiting. My rotors are 13" Spec-37. I'm also using Motul 600 fluid. I checked some lap times from my Harry's Lap Timer ap and I am running IDENTICAL times to my '15 Z/28...2:57. I know there is more in each car, but I like to load up the cars in one piece at the end of the day!

      Joe
      1969 Firebird Project
      1967 Frirebird 400 convertible
      2013 Boss 302






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