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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Jonesboro, Arkansas
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    2,327
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    I have a overflow I need help with.

    I had a stainless steel overflow tank made for my Camaro. It is 3" in diameter, and 13" from top to bottom. The hose coming from the radiator to the tank is attached to a tube that is about 1/2" from the bottom of the tank. There is a overflow tube in the tank that is about 1.5" from the top and open to the atmosphere at the bottom of the tank. With the motor cool I have filled the radiator with coolant to the top of the neck and put the cap on. I then added coolant to the tank to 1/2 full. After driving around and getting the motor to operating temperature I let it sit until the next day, again to ambient temperature. I checked the radiator and I'm 1 1/2" from the top of the radiator neck with coolant and approx. 1" from the bottom of the tank with coolant. I have done this several times and no matter it always leaves me with the same amount both in the radiator and tank. Shouldn't the levels be higher? I'm thinking the radiator coolant should be at the top and the tank at least 1/2 full.
    Here is a picture of my tank installed.



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    Carl Wilson
    1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Yuma, AZ
    Posts
    605
    Country Flag: United States
    Is the car running hot or drinking coolant? Does the line from the rad come in the top of the tank and have a tube that goes down to the bottom? If so, that could be trapping some air in the system.

    Every time you open the rad you are letting air back in the system that needs burped out. Leave the cap on the radiator and only add coolant through the overflow. I always fill the rad up, then fill the overflow bottle pretty high. Let the car idle to get warm, then shut off and let it cool until the next day. Then, check ONLY the bottle, not the rad, and see where your level is. If your system is setup right, any air should get burped out through the bottle and coolant will be pulled back in the rad when it cools. Repeat the process and add coolant to the bottle as needed until the level stabilizes, it may take several times to get all the air out. Make sure you're rad cap is in good shape before starting this process.

    5.0 Foxbody Mustangs are notoriously hard to bleed because the highest part of the cooling system is the upper rad hose. It took me at least 5 heat cycles to get all the air burped out of my cooling system. But doing the method above does work and eventually the level stabilized in the overflow bottle.
    Nelson
    1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

    1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Jonesboro, Arkansas
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    Thanks, I have tried what you suggested several times, but maybe not enough times. I will keep trying. Yes, the line coming from the radiator comes in the top of the tank and goes down to about 1/2" from the bottom of the tank.

    Carl Wilson
    1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Yuma, AZ
    Posts
    605
    Country Flag: United States
    I've never liked tanks like that, I prefer when the fitting just comes in the bottom so you know all the air will get out. But that pipe can't be trapping that much air.

    Yeah, it can be a pain to get it all out. You can try over filling the overflow bottle and driving the car too. It will push out whatever it doesn't want and should stabilize itself eventually.

    Only other thing I would have suggested was a bigger tank, but yours is a good size. On our families Chevelle we started with a small bottle and could never get it bled because the car pushed out more than the bottle could hold, then sucked it dry when it cooled. Bigger bottle solved that particular problem.

    Keep at it and you'll get it eventually. Otherwise, if it's not running hot, just accept that the car is in it's happy spot and don't worry too much haha.
    Nelson
    1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

    1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mountain Springs, Texas
    Posts
    3,137
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    What you are reporting sounds fine. So long as the tubes are covered you are fine imho. You don’t want the radiator full to the top. Your overflow just catches the high temperature burps and returns them to the radiator when it cools and creates a vacuum.

    Don
    1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
    1957 Buick Caballero - huge project
    1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
    1969 Mustang Sportsroof
    1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Jonesboro, Arkansas
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    Thanks for the help guys. I'll plug away at it and see what happens. I'll keep everyone up to date in case someone else has this problem.

    Carl Wilson
    1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mountain Springs, Texas
    Posts
    3,137
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    Quote Originally Posted by minendrews68 View Post
    Thanks for the help guys. I'll plug away at it and see what happens. I'll keep everyone up to date in case someone else has this problem.
    I don’t think you have a problem.... :>)

    Don
    1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
    1957 Buick Caballero - huge project
    1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
    1969 Mustang Sportsroof
    1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain