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    Results 1 to 15 of 15
    1. #1
      Join Date
      May 2007
      Location
      Apollo Beach, FL
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States

      Very Basic Paint Question

      I have a 67 Camaro that has most of its original paint. Is it truly necessary to strip the car prior to a repaint. The original paint is not nice enough to use as is, but if it is not necessary to strip the complete car I would prefer not to at this point. There is no rust repair needed, just a repaint.
      Ray S.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Location
      Kankakee IL
      Posts
      362
      Drive it as a patina car until you can afford to do a proper repaint.
      Tracey

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2007
      Location
      Apollo Beach, FL
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
      - - - Updated - - -

      Quote Originally Posted by Tsaints1115 View Post
      Drive it as a patina car until you can afford to do a proper repaint.
      While I do appreciate your opinion, I would still like to know if it would need to be completely striped or if it would not cause issues. It's not a cost question on my end.
      Ray S.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      641
      Not an expert but if it's the "original" paint I've had good luck scuffing the original paint and using an epoxy primer. Just make sure you have a single layer of paint that has not started to flake or is be weather checked.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      DFW, Texas
      Posts
      422
      Country Flag: United States
      If you have good adhesion on the original paint, you can scuff and shoot it. If that's what you wanted to do.
      1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
      1976 Dodge D100 - Warlock
      2016 Subaru WRX - E30 Tune

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      Original paint was acrylic lacquer. I wouldn’t risk it.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Location
      Kankakee IL
      Posts
      362
      Then yes, if a quality finished paint job is desired, your best plan of attack is to start with bare metal and use quality products from scratch. The final product is only as good as it's foundation.
      Tracey

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      jacksonville,fl
      Posts
      970
      Country Flag: United States
      On a later model car,scuffing & going over original paint is usually just fine, But not on over 50 year old paint. Then on the most of the original paint deal, you never know what's there. Most older cars got some damage first few years of ownership.
      Now for stripping, especially old lacquer, a decent grinder & rust removal discs can get it done in a day without high costs or even bringing the car somewhere. Then follow up with a light 80 grit da sanding & epoxy.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      583
      Country Flag: United States
      Absolutely no need to strip your car. if there are no adhesion problems, sand, epoxy prime, then shoot. Even the best don't strip the car unless it's necessary (Bitchin' Rides) for example.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      May 2007
      Location
      Apollo Beach, FL
      Posts
      149
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks to everyone that has replied.

      I'm not a painter, but I have been told over the years both opinions of it must be striped completely and if the paint isn't coming off it's fine to prime over and paint. I know it is always best to start fresh, I was just curious what the general thought process was from a group of people that build and paint cars with today's technology. It's actually kinda funny the opinion is still somewhat split. The main issue in my mind is to completely strip the car, it would need to be dipped or blasted, including the jambs and all the other cracks and crevasses that hand sanding is tough in. These are the areas that were of more concern to me than the main body.
      Ray S.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      641
      It's a pain to strip a car.

      Here's what I've done.

      Start with the fenders, doors, hood or trunk lid. You can use a DA or chemical stripper on the big areas. Keep the chemical stripper away from seams or edges. I like chemical stripper although it's very stinky and caustic.Then if you have a air compressor buy or borrow a small (40lb) pressure sand blaster and do all edges. Or before a I had a air compressor I took the parts to a local sand blaster to do the edges. Then bring the parts down to a local body shop 10 minutes after they are done sand blasting and have then spray them with epoxy primer to prevent flash rust. Do one piece at a time as you have time. The body is about the same but more time sand blasting the edges.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      My first step is to try a razor blade scraper. On some cars the paint comes off easily and makes much less mess. Chemical stripper is a last resort for me. It’s nasty stuff.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Location
      Kankakee IL
      Posts
      362
      What kind of paint job were you planning? A nice quality repaint or something show worthy? Paints not cheap when you do it right and I look at investing that money and being sure that nothing will ruin it from an existing layer on the surface.
      Tracey

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      Original paint was acrylic lacquer. I wouldn’t risk it.

      Don
      What I'm sayin'. Not because we think you should do extra work just for the fun of it, but I personally just wouldn't risk it. You don't know what has leeched into the paint (if anything), or any number of other problems that could pop up. On the other hand if a mediocre paint job is ok and your not the least bit worried something could go wrong then scuff and paint away.. Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jul 2016
      Posts
      341
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm no expert body man but the results from a stripped car and fresh paint to just a "paint over" job is night and day.

      Last edited by DT69Cam; 07-31-2019 at 04:59 AM. Reason: type-o






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