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    Results 1 to 16 of 16
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States

      Lead filler replacement

      I replaced a quarter panel and the tail light panel on my '72 Nova, now I'm onto bodywork but I don't want to try and learn how to work with lead, I've heard there are fillers out there now that supposedly work as well as lead. Is this true? What are you guys using to fill these voids? I could mig weld fill the void but it seems like there has to be a better way.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm no body man but I did similar research 6 months ago. I ended up going with evercoat metal-2-metal which is an aluminum reinforced filler. Seems there's no straight answer to your question but the only uniform advice I got is to stick with the one brand from start to finish. since I was using evercoat it made the decision a little easier.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      I use SEM Carbofil. Carbon fiber reinforced filler.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      Both of those options sound great, I talked to a 3M rep and they had also suggested using body panel adhesive topped with fiberglass filler.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by k72nova View Post
      Both of those options sound great, I talked to a 3M rep and they had also suggested using body panel adhesive topped with fiberglass filler.
      Not sure what the panel adhesive adds to the joint aside from selling some expensive product. I use it but see zero value in using it in that application unless you are somehow getting it into the pinch weld joint.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      Not sure what the panel adhesive adds to the joint aside from selling some expensive product. I use it but see zero value in using it in that application unless you are somehow getting it into the pinch weld joint.

      Don
      I agree, it's a adhesive, not a filler. Mostly used where welding on a panel was either too hard to get to or a time saving measure. It does quite well for what it's designed to be used for.

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      jacksonville,fl
      Posts
      970
      Country Flag: United States
      Expansion & contraction factor with 8115 is a lot. I have used it to extend an edge in the past, but I wouldn't use it where I'm trying to eliminate ghosting.
      Researched the carbosill for my own info yesterday. It's been out at least 10 years now, though I hadn't heard of it yet. I'd imagine it's probably similar to a Kevlar reinforced filler by evercoat that I have used personally over 10 years ago.
      As far as fillers for this application, vette panel adhesive , all metal, or a duraglass type product do all work, but the carbosill could be the best choice. A little more expensive, but when talking about a joint that's pretty close to eye level, it ain't worth skimping. By theoretical thinking , the carbon fiber strands will help to bridge any expansion /contraction better than the other mentioned products.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2004
      Location
      Mid-Michigan
      Posts
      2,764
      Country Flag: United States
      Like everyone is alluding to... Do NOT use the panel glue OR fiberglass. To much differential in shrinking and expanding and the joint will always be visible. I use Aluma-Lead which is about the same thing as Metal 2 Metal. It is a 2 part epoxy carrier with an aluminum based filler. I have never had an issue with shrinkage with the this product.
      Mark
      Mark:
      "Bad Ast" Astro Van. Just because I did it... Doesn't mean it's possible...
      This my Bad Ast thread...
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...roject-Faze-II
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      http://astroracer.fotki.com/

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      641
      I'm no body work expert but why not use 18-16 gauge sheet metal to very carefully cut to fit and then mig or tig weld in? Then metal finish as needed and then minimal filler? Or East wood makes lead like filler instead of real lead. Just my .02.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      Kingman AZ
      Posts
      38
      Country Flag: United States
      In our body shop we use All- Metal filler in place of lead. It doesn’t shrink up and dries extremely hard.
      It can be worked with a bondo grinder after drying but needs to be semi finished before it sets. It is permanent and the only way to remove it is with a torch.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      jacksonville,fl
      Posts
      970
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 79 Camaro View Post
      I'm no body work expert but why not use 18-16 gauge sheet metal to very carefully cut to fit and then mig or tig weld in? Then metal finish as needed and then minimal filler? Or East wood makes lead like filler instead of real lead. Just my .02.
      Thicker metal welded into a joint as a filler can shadow just as well. Cutting & butt joints are best for sheet metal, but in some areas this can be more work & more potential spread out warpage than it's worth vs filling in a seam properly.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      Just learn the lead system It took me a while to get it down, but I used it on my door edges after I welded 1/8 " filler rod on.

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jul 2010
      Location
      Harrisburg, PA
      Posts
      84
      Country Flag: United States
      The reason lead was used is because it was semi-flexible. The joint at the quarter to roof was spot welded at the factory and allows flex. If you seam weld and make it rigid you can use Dura-glas filler then top coat with a standard filler as a finish coat before primer.
      Joshua O

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      Carbofill is flexible, that’s why I use it.

      Never drank the all metal/metal to metal koolaid. It’s seems like it’s just normal talc based filler with aluminum powder in it. I don’t see any cross linking with powder. I want some kind of strong strands in the filler.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Anniston, Al
      Posts
      290
      Country Flag: United States
      Here's what I did, this way I minimized the filler I needed. Haven't driven the car yet so can't say for sure if there will be any issues but we will see.
      Attached Images Attached Images      
      1967 Firebird (current project)
      1967 Firebird (unfinished project SOLD)

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      That looks pretty good to me..


      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.






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