Ridetech Air Ride questions

[Wall]

I have a 67 Firebird and bought a used Ridetech air ride setup that has 2x 2-gallon tanks and 1 compresor. I've been trying to figure out the best way to mount my tanks in the trunk and then it occured to me that there was no water trap with this kit and I was wondering if I needed one. Anyone running a water trap on their air ride set up? If so what kind?

Also was wondering if it's best to run the front air lines under the car or through the firewall and under the carpet?

[MonzaRacer]

Honestly I never had any real issues on my 78 C10 when I used ridetech parts and built it on air, Coolride on front and parallel 4 link in back with 9000 series shocks.
I started using an A6 ac compressor for air pressure and added drains on my 5 gallon tank that i would drain during oil changes.
I wore the clutch out and went to using a York/Techmseh style pump and never had great issues.
There are inline dessicants you can use for painting that you might be able to rig up but I havent actually found huge water issues and I drove my truck daily for 4 yrs.
You could look around for a 12v powered compressor tank drain that dumps say when key is turned on or off. Shouldnt be hard to source a kit or parts to make something. IF you find you have issues.
Honestly Id just make an easy 1/4 turn drain and line easily accessible and drive on.

[Tsaints1115]

Short of you raising and lowering the car non stop the compressor won't be running that much. It's not like a constantly used air compressor thats trying to keep up with tools.

[Josh@Ridetech]

We don't run them on our cars either. I'd say 90% water that does get accumulated in the tank gets circulated through the system and exhausted out of the valve block. I was talking to one of our guys last week about "how much time you should wait before draining the tank". He's had the same setup on his Suburban for 15 years and said the tank hasn't been off of it for probably 10 years and has had no issues. However, if you're running an old steel tank, it wouldn't hurt to take it out more frequently to get rid of any rust particles. On an aluminum setup, I wouldn't worry about it.

[Wall]

Thanks for the replies guys. Josh, that makes sense, I was just overthinking it. I guess the compressor shouldn't be running that much as long as I don't have excessive leaks. I'm in the mock up phase so just trying to think of everything I might need now.

I've had all this stuff sitting in a box for a few years now so I had to make sure everything works. Unfortunately I had one channel (Left Rear Inf) in the E3 controller that wasn't working. I noticed that one solenoid was warm while the others were cool which made me thing the output was staying on. I removed the circuit board and confirmed I had a D417 mosfet that was shorted. I ordered some new mosfets (ordered extras) so I will replace the bad one and cross my fingers. Everything else seemed to work like it should.