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  1. #1
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    Cooling question.

    Do you guys think a close out panel (radiator close out) on a '68 Camaro would help in cooling the motor?


    Carl Wilson
    1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats


  2. #2
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    Probably not, but you could tape it up and try it, before spending $$. But they do look cool.

  3. #3
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    Just the top or a full closeout? Just the top I have no idea but a full closeout of the core support and top would help at speed a lot.

  4. #4
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    I think they look good, but if you're having a cooling issue I don't think they would help enough to change that by just pulling a bit more outside air.

  5. #5
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    I'm not having a problem at present, but just wondered if it would help any, and yes, they do look cool. What about closing the radiator out around the fan? I have a big aftermarket fan with the sides around the fan open. Should they be closed in?

    Carl Wilson
    1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by minendrews68 View Post
    I'm not having a problem at present, but just wondered if it would help any, and yes, they do look cool. What about closing the radiator out around the fan? I have a big aftermarket fan with the sides around the fan open. Should they be closed in?
    Yes they should be closed in! The fan can only pull from the area it is closed in too. However if you close it in make sure it can flow when the fan is NOT pulling air. That is why the factory and better aftermarket setups have flaps that close when the fan is on and open when the airflow is greater than the fan.
    1969 Camaro (Small Tyre Restomod/mild Protour) 245/40/18 F, 275/35/18 R, stock frame, full Ridetech suspension, LS engine, T56 Mag, Wilwood Brakes. A driver car.

  7. #7
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    Yes, close out panels can help with cooling. They reduce the chance of hot air being recirculated back through the radiator. There is a reason the OEM manufacturers have all that ducting in place on modern cars. The more cool air the radiator can flow the better it works compared to recirculating hot air from under the hood.

    And for a fan to work at it's best the radiator should be fully shrouded. That forces the fan to pull air through the core, not in from the sides. Remember air follows the path of least resistance. As mentioned above, be sure to put flapper valves or turn the fan off at high speeds to ensure you are not blocking flow on the highway.
    Nelson
    1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

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  8. #8
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    Thanks guys..

    Carl Wilson
    1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats

  9. #9
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    I think its crazy that with all the parts available for 1st gens, nobody has come out with a hood with functioning airflow vents yet. Hello Goodmark...? Are you listening?!? LOL

    All of these underhood heatsoak issues would go away if they designed a hood and mating air cleaner assembly to ram air in thru the front area of the hood and let it out under/behind the hood along the cowl area-this provides downforce on the front while creating a very high pressure cowl area from which all underhood heat is sucked through and out. I’ve built a few custom hood treatments using this method and its very effective and unique.
    "...if at first you don't succeed, try again.
    If you still don't succeed, then quit-no sense being a damn fool about it..."
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    HARNESSWORX
    (formerly gmachinz)

  10. #10
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    The base of a 1st gen windshield is high pressure from the outside. That's why the location was chosen for cowl induction. Opening up that location forces air into the engine compartment.

    From a hood venting standpoint on a 1st gen, the farther forward, the better. From a practical standpoint, just behind the cooling fan works.
    VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

  11. #11
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    I have always been impressed with how many people believe that a cowl INDUCTION hood lets hot air escape.

  12. #12
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    On the shroud around the fan, how do you make a flapper that opens and closes, especially if your making the shroud yourself? I took a run in the Camaro this afternoon. (hottest day this year). On the by-pass, running around 65-70 mph the temps hovered around 200*, with or without the AC on. When I came off the by-pass and had to wait for a while to be let in line (due to traffic being backed up) it started climbing to around 215* with the AC on. I turned it off and started moving and it returned to the 200* mark. My fan runs constantly after it reaches 185*. So, you guys are saying the shroud would help in stand still traffic?

    Carl Wilson
    1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats

  13. #13
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    Just a thought

    I have incredible cooling consistency. Hot days and in traffic
    I leaned my radiator back for OTR, but I think what it does is expose the entire radiator front to fresh air.
    The radiator support panel blocks a huge chunk of the radiator in a 1st gen
    OEM fans have a very open shroud I'm sure for when fans aren't running

    I've never turned the second fan on

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    Damien
    Napier, New Zealand
    Project Page: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?99096-Project-Camaro-68-P-T-Muscle
    Next Project: 1956 Chevy Truck, Full C3 Suspension, Nascar Inspired

  14. #14
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    hhmmmmm, nice!

    Carl Wilson
    1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by minendrews68 View Post
    hhmmmmm, nice!
    Not best shot of front during assembly
    Damien
    Napier, New Zealand
    Project Page: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?99096-Project-Camaro-68-P-T-Muscle
    Next Project: 1956 Chevy Truck, Full C3 Suspension, Nascar Inspired

  16. #16
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    Regarding using a DIY shroud with free air flow flappers... here's a sketch I made when I was thinking about a single fan, using the Taurus/Volvo 2-speed fan. The Be-Cool rubber flaps are available from Summit and other places. They are molded with three (3) pull-thru swedge sections that are perpendicular to the flap. You drill the appropriate size hole and pull the tabs thru, they are choked into a locked position, so the flap is flush and the rubber flap section is pliable enough to blow out nearly horizontal at highway speeds. Plenty of people have made DIY shrouds, cut from aluminum or steel, in this case I'd use a CNC Plasma cutting table to cut the design, then use a brake to bend the corners, tig weld or rivet the joints.



    As it turned out, the big single is too deep for my setup, so I'm looking at a re-design with two 12" low-profile fans. Interesting that I found the Ford Contour fans (dual 12" 2-speed) have a molded shroud with about 1/2" space from the hub of the fan blade to the core of the radiator.



    I had some discussion with a Spal applications engineer and while he said you could use a shroud-less setup, you'll get far better performance from your fan/fans if they are mounted to a shroud so as to draw air thru the entire core as opposed to the volume of the fan's diameter.
    '69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, Massaged .030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed,
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