Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
    Results 1 to 20 of 31
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Apr 2019
      Location
      Austria
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: Austria

      Mercury Comet Mild Build

      Good Day All,

      Having posted my intro I am moving swiftly to starting my build thread. My car is a 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente H/T, originally registered in Oregon and imported to Germany last year where I bought it after looking at a number of cars which were either rubbish or too expensive and with the "wrong" drivetrain. What attracted me to the car was the fact that was more-or-less original and unmolested and without any major rust issues. It has patina but I like it. There is also the bonus of the original 260 having been replaced by a 289 at some stage. After getting it to Austria I had to go through the usual pain of type approval (of which more later), registration and insurance and then had a good going over to ensure it was driveable. I took it on a number of trips on the countryside but also through Vienna's traffic jams and although it seems reasonably healthy, with 4 drum brakes, 3sp g/box and slow steering it is no fun if you want to drive fast on our roads. The plan is thus to modify it but I'm not going to go as radical as some of you guys because I'm in a country where any modifications from stock have to be type approved which is doable but not cheap (engineer's report, testing station fees etc.). So my plan is to do as much as possible with what I have. Basically, the mods are as follows:


      • Shelby drop + uprated springs + Bilstein shocks + poly bushes + heavy duty anti-sway bar at the front (done)
      • Mike Maier Panhard rod set up at the rear + 5 leaf Scott Drake springs (there will be questions coming)
      • Wilwood 140-13344-D front discs
      • Halibrand look wheels like Rocket Igniter (not decided on the size, 16" or 17")
      • McLeod 5 sp
      • Yukon Gear Street Trac Loc Positraction diff (keeping the 8")
      • Uprated rear axles
      • 3.8 turns lock to lock steering box
      • Unisteer electric steering servo
      • Stiffening plates inside the sills
      • And then the engine will be modded to REAL WORLD 300 hp.


      At a later stage some glassfibre bits will be fitted (bumpers, hood etc.). And most likely a 6 point roll cage.

      So what we're aiming at is something which won't look too far from stock but would still be very roadable. I thought about the semi-race car option with bits from RRS in Australia but the hassles we get here on heavily modified cars are just too much to be worth the trouble and costs.

      Here's the car when I got it.

      Name:  32222559_10214273761632168_5897361521884790784_o.jpg
Views: 2228
Size:  152.4 KB

      I then did the usual things to ensure reliable running like ditching the generator, changing the harmonic balancer, fitting an electric fan + a flexi fan, installing some gauges, a tacho, an isolator switch and a... couple of turbos.

      Name:  WP_20180608_14_05_22_Pro.jpg
Views: 1635
Size:  272.9 KB



      Well my friend who's into Audis had them about. I took them off because they made no difference to the performance, am not sure why people bother with them. At that stage I thought about starting on the suspension but then I took the carpet of and...

      More next time.

      Cheers

      T


      - - - Updated - - -


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Location
      Auckland, New Zealand
      Posts
      68
      Country Flag: New Zealand
      Keep the reports coming. I like seeing mods to cars which are a bit different. Perhaps the turbos didn't work properly because you left the plastic caps on one of them?
      cheers Russell

      My 1957 Pontiac Star Chief powered by a 5.3 LS with a 4L60E transmission, on 18" US Mags Big Slots.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2015
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      36
      Country Flag: United States
      Huge fan of the 64 Comet... but I am a little biased..

      Name:  IMG_0038.jpg
Views: 1589
Size:  86.8 KB

      It’s my dads car, I still get to drive it once in a while though...

      Keep the updates coming..

      Brian

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      CT.
      Posts
      738
      I look forward to watching this build. Best of luck. It's nice to see a different car getting built too!



      Glenn

      1955 Chevy BelAir
      1951 Chevy 3100
      1987 Chevy Silverado

      My last project....
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...my-72-Maverick!!

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2019
      Location
      Austria
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: Austria
      Thanks for those who replied, sometimes I question my sanity - it would have made more sense to go for a belly button car. A lot of people consider the Comet/Falcon as identical to the Mustang but there are some important differences which makes life harder.

      Like I've said, I decided to have a quick look under the carpet and as usual, one thing led to another and below you can see some of the issues. There was water coming in from the cowl area and some creature used to live under the rear seat, collecting tons of wool (WTF?) and using the floor as its bathroom. Had to don a mask (hantavirus) and disinfect everything. The funny thing is, NOTHING was visible from underneath when I checked the car before buying. Such is life and compared to other Comets I saw it's nothing.

      Name:  WP_20180928_14_29_54_Pro.jpg
Views: 1516
Size:  141.5 KB
      Name:  WP_20181006_16_39_34_Pro.jpg
Views: 1515
Size:  139.6 KB
      Name:  WP_20190108_14_56_27_Pro.jpg
Views: 1506
Size:  227.6 KB
      Name:  WP_20190118_15_40_48_Pro.jpg
Views: 1504
Size:  149.6 KB
      Name:  WP_20190208_11_38_46_Pro.jpg
Views: 1505
Size:  148.0 KB
      Name:  WP_20190223_09_34_47_Pro.jpg
Views: 1523
Size:  165.2 KB
      Name:  20190408_164507.jpg
Views: 1535
Size:  134.7 KB

      There's loads more but you get the picture lol.

      The bottom line was all work on the suspension was considerably postponed - please bear in mind I have no garage and although I can use a friend's place it's his workshop so customer cars have priority (or he does some of the work for me which is ok, I did the bodywork on his Audi 200 Quatro Turbo years ago). But at least now I'm sure I got 99% of all rust issues under control - it would have made no sense to start on the suspension and other things otherwise.

      Cheers

      T

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2019
      Location
      Austria
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: Austria
      OK, so those were the "side issues" but at last work on the interesting stuff began. The first thing to do was to get rid of the instrument of torture otherwise known as "bench seat" and replace it with two OMP seats I got here in Austria from Jansen Competition (https://jansen-competition.com/en/). They were not cheap but (i) they're EU made (Croatia) and (ii) are approved for road use which, bearing in mind I'll need to get them approved as change from standard, is important.

      Name:  WP_20180922_17_48_49_Pro.jpg
Views: 1522
Size:  132.5 KB
      Next on the agenda was getting the front suspension tight again including a 1" Shelby drop. I used uprated road springs, poly bushes and 1.25" anti sway bar from Melvins (http://www.melvinsclassicfordparts.com/) to replace the fibble originals. Shocks are black Bilsteins from Mike Maier (https://mikemaierinc.com/). This is now done, other than the idler arm which I somehow managed to mis-order. Am trying to find one now but like I've said this is a weird not-quite-Mustang car which has one year only bits...

      Name:  20190408_164519.jpg
Views: 1496
Size:  197.1 KB
      Name:  20190408_164528.jpg
Views: 1509
Size:  188.7 KB
      Name:  20190408_165234.jpg
Views: 1501
Size:  205.6 KB
      Name:  20190408_164548.jpg
Views: 1542
Size:  126.5 KB
      Then we started on the steering which is essentially a manual one with the PAS 64 Comet ratio, giving me 3.8 turns lock to lock (also sourced from Melvins). Later this will be mated to a Unisteer electric PAS but until then I'll just keep going to the gym.
      Name:  20190408_165318.jpg
Views: 1498
Size:  189.2 KB
      Then attention was turned to the rear. I purchased a Mike Maier MOD1 Panhard rod rear kit. When I knew this was a Mustang kit so we knew it may not be an exact fit but I did not expect how radical the drop would be. Basically it was something like 4-5" and it was impossible to fit even my current small rubbered wheel on the axle. Yes, we released the jack when we tested, the axle did not drop. Am not blaming Mike by the way - it is a first for both of us and I think he was surprised as much as I was. The bottom line is there will be two springs up for sale soon (https://mikemaierinc.com/product/mus...af-spring-kit/). That leaves me with the question of what to use and the more I think about it the most sensible option are the Scott Drake Falcon/Comet 5 leaf h/d springs which I can get in the UK (https://mustangmaniac.co.uk/part/63/...y_leaf_springs) which will be quicker and, because Brexit has been postponed, not involve any import duties. The thing about those is they lift the car by an inch but provided that's true I can use lowering blocks to adjust. Alternatively I could use mid-eye h/d springs which retain the standard position, but after the previous experience I'm slightly paranoid. Any ideas?
      Name:  20190410_164927.jpg
Views: 1500
Size:  196.5 KB
      Name:  56798016_307487289918787_31274899582484480_n.jpg
Views: 1489
Size:  150.8 KB
      Cheers
      T

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      Livermore CA
      Posts
      131
      T,

      This looks like a cool build. I would not give up on the MOD1 leaves just yet. The drop will not be that radical with the car on the ground. The factory leaves are something like 85lb/in and the MMi leaves are 165lb/in so they will compress about half as much.

      It sounds like the issue is removing the wheel and tire. This can be solved by simply unbolting the shackle which will allow the suspension to droop out more. I had to do this with my Falcon when I ran leaves and now have to unbolt the shock pushrods in order to get the tires on and off. To play with the right height you can always run some slightly extended shackles or worse come to worse take the spring apart and re-ach the main leaf. This can be done in a shop press or with a home made tool.

      The problem is the shape of the body having a mini "fender skirt" which hides the top of the tire. Basically anyone with a lowered Falcon or Comet has this problem. You will also likely need to trim 1/4-3/4 of a coil from the front springs to get the ride height correct. Basically the top of the springs is 1-3/4" lower on the Falcon / Comet so the Mustang "lowering" springs will raise the car in the front.

      I attached the picture of my old stock leaf next to the ones I installed. These resulted in only about 1" of lowering. Also attached a picture of my "spring arching" tool.

      Good Luck.

      -Craig
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2019
      Location
      Austria
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: Austria
      @Craig: thanks for your response, and having seen the work you did on your Falcon I'd be a fool to ignore it. I'm still considering all my options. There is another aspect of the Mustang MOD1 springs I neglected to mention which is the centre pin location brings the axle forward which, on those cars (if only because of the looks aspect), is something you don't want. Another thing is that I live in a country with stupid rules and I don't want to end up with a car that is almost lowrider low, if you see what I mean. I attach another pic showing how deep the axle in the wheel arch is.

      I do realise I may have to accept the fact a wheel change will necessitate dropping the spring, yes, and a solution may be an tubeless tire emergency repair kit which Bikers use to get me home anyway.

      I'll probably do a another dry run with the car on its legs before making my mind up.

      Cheers
      T

      PS: The front springs are supposedly for Falcons and Comets but it's possible what I got was generic based on Mustang measurements.
      PS2: Adding I did think about re-arching but once I do it, if it does not work I won't be able to sell the springs and still have to get the Scott Drake (or similar) ones...

      Name:  56496295_277139653165182_5416916159347818496_n.jpg
Views: 1451
Size:  77.0 KB
      Last edited by T. Turtle; 04-21-2019 at 05:05 AM. Reason: Senility

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Great build.

      I realize you're not quite there, but why the choice of the McLeod 6 speed over other options, like a T5?

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2019
      Location
      Austria
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: Austria
      Andrew,

      First, a small correction, it's a 5sp, not a 6. As for why I chose it, well (i) it fits my weird Bellhousing without any changes other than the flywheel (I have a 5 bolt 289 which I want to keep) (ii) clutch release mechanism remains the same,
      (iii) it's slim enough not to have to heavily modify the transmission tunnel and (iv) it's safe to 500 lb/ft which is more than the T5 can generally take, which gives me a safety margin.

      Cheers

      T

      Name:  WP_20181217_12_00_25_Pro.jpg
Views: 1434
Size:  191.7 KB

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks T,

      The 6 speed bit was a typo with my fat fingers. I'm curious how the McLeod trans works for you. People have talked about it on various forums for years, but I have never read an account of someone who actually had one.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Apr 2019
      Location
      Austria
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: Austria
      @ Andrew: right. We'll have to see about the box... I understand they sold more GM pattern ones for some reason. From my PoV it made sense, I'm in the EU so none of the usual suspects is something common here anyway and the local stuff (Getrag, ZF etc.) requires lots of do-it-yourself modifications to fit and is NOT cheap.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Apr 2019
      Location
      Austria
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: Austria
      Short update: got the Maier springs fully mounted, put the car on its legs and it's not as bad as I thought initially. The axle sits 0.1" back from stock which is really nothing. Pic isn't good but I think with lengthened rear shackles and the front coils settled I'll get the stance right. Plan is to get everything including the Panhard rod set up done next week and get driving to let the suspension "bed in" so to speak.
      Name:  zQzXUw2.jpg
Views: 1386
Size:  64.1 KB

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Apr 2019
      Location
      Austria
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: Austria
      Well, some progress has been made. The Maier MOD1 Panhard rod kit is fully welded in after some adjustment has been made (pic is from the dry run. The kit is designed for a Mustang which has a narrower chassis so plates were inserted between the chassis rail and the bar mounting. Some BFH was used but not too much). After having longer spring shackles the ride height seems to be where I want it but of course you can't tell until the car has covered some mileage and this will only happen once I drop the sump / remove the intake to clean some sludge I found inside For some reason I never had the valve covers off until now which only came about because this was the only way to get the old steering box out so that a quicker ratio one could be fitted (the difference could be felt immediately with all the slop gone - I think as soon as I get the new idler arm assembly it will be pretty good).

      Name:  0sAmxGz.jpg
Views: 1289
Size:  129.2 KB
      Name:  2T0xCaY.jpg
Views: 1254
Size:  74.3 KB
      Name:  d7wEEmb.jpg
Views: 1299
Size:  94.3 KB
      Name:  oWzPbsD.jpg
Views: 1255
Size:  72.7 KB
      Last edited by T. Turtle; 05-18-2019 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Spelling

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Can you, or anyone else go through some fine points and benei of adding a panhard rod to a leaf spring suspension. Presumably this is for better lateral control of the rear axle, but I'd like to hear more about it.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    16. #16
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      Livermore CA
      Posts
      131
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Can you, or anyone else go through some fine points and benei of adding a panhard rod to a leaf spring suspension. Presumably this is for better lateral control of the rear axle, but I'd like to hear more about it.

      Andrew
      The panhard bar keeps the axle from moving left and right and allows for roll center adjustment. With leaves and rubber bushings you can get 3/4” or more movement. You can add nearly ridged bushings bushings but they cause the leaves to bind under roll which results in unpredictable corner exit behavior. The Mike Maier Inc springs are beefed up in the front half too keep them from winding up. The rear half of the spring is designed to be free so it can work and not bind up. The result is a good ride and good handling.

      The roll center adjustment can add or remove rear grip to fine tune the handling. Lower gives more grip, higher will reduce grip. Generally you want to run it al low as possible with making it push.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Location
      Kennewick, WA
      Posts
      259
      Country Flag: United States
      Funny you ask, I have had this page on my phone for a couple weeks and they give an explanation on the pan hard bar in FAQ #3.

      https://www.maierracing.com/faqs/


    18. #18
      Join Date
      Apr 2019
      Location
      Austria
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: Austria
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Can you, or anyone else go through some fine points and benei of adding a panhard rod to a leaf spring suspension. Presumably this is for better lateral control of the rear axle, but I'd like to hear more about it.

      Andrew
      What Craig said, plus in my case it's even more important to limit side-to-side movement given that I have extended shackles at the back. And please also note the MOD1 kit also contains a sway bar which helps fine tune the handling characteristics further.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      British Columbia
      Posts
      508
      Very cool build !

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the info!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com