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    Results 1 to 5 of 5
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      15

      Questions for rear wheels on a 1968 Charger w/ mini-tubs?

      Hey Everyone!
      I hope this finds you all well, and willing to help me out with a decision on which way to go on a pro-touring build. I’m building a ’68 Charger that is really intended to be a comfortable street car that will be able to road trip a power tour with ease. Specifics include a 6.4L HEMI, 5spd NAG1, Carl Gerst front k-frame & coil overs w/ a triangulated 4 link & 3.55s in the rear. I’ve had the unibody stiffened up with contoured subframe connectors, torque boxes, inner fender braces and a radiator core support brace too; so hopefully she’ll grip and track nicely as well. I’ve also had the rear wheel tubs moved inboards & relocated the 4 link perches into the frame rails (with the Mopar Performance spring relocation kit). I know that I can fit 335s in widened wheel tubs easily; but my question is now what do I do for the rear wheel offset? I’ll be going with a 11.5 or 12” wide Forgeline/Grip Equip Grudge wheels.


      Since it’s mini-tubbed and I am putting some thick rubber back there, do I bite the bullet and narrow the rear ? Is there something really desirable (handling or aesthetics) to having a negative offset and a ‘deep’ looking rear wheel? Since I’ll be going with a custom wheel, I theoretically can put the wheel center in either location (depending on axle width) to have the wheel fill out the widened wheel well.


      Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!



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    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Normal, IL
      Posts
      235
      I would figure out your brake package first, find out what kinda clearance that needs vs the wheels you'd like and go from there.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Jacksonville, Florida
      Posts
      630
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by james j View Post
      Is there something really desirable (handling or aesthetics) to having a negative offset and a ‘deep’ looking rear wheel? Since I’ll be going with a custom wheel, I theoretically can put the wheel center in either location (depending on axle width) to have the wheel fill out the widened wheel well.
      The narrowed housing reduces unsprung weight. The location of the links will determine just how narrow you can go, as well as where the calipers mount. The calipers can hit the the tub or frame rail depending on how much you narrow the rear.
      Craig Scholl
      CJD Automotive, LLC
      Jacksonville, Florida
      904-400-1802
      www.cjdautomotive.com

      "I own a Mopar, I already know it won't be in stock, won't ship tomorrow, and won't fit without modification."

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      593
      My situation is probably different than yours, but I ended up with the same wheel and tire size 305/35/18×11.5 front and rear, but with different offsets based on using the stock width mustang axle. I wish I would have widened the axle to allow the rear wheels to have the same offset as the fronts. Then I could have the option to rotate tires.

      I also dont like the look of ultra deep dish wheels. I appreciate a healthy dish, but dont want to have get on my hands and knees to see spokes.
      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Southern California / Maryland
      Posts
      488
      Country Flag: United States
      I am in the similar situation with my 68 Charger... in reality it is up to personal preference on offset - assuming you're going to go with a narrowed rear end - I personally am going mini-tubs and a 18x11 or 18x12 - I plan on running "0" offset so it has a nice dish but not cartoon looking like a little hot-wheels....

      You'll love the 6.4L -
      1966 Chevrolet Chevelle 300 Deluxe 350 / 350 auto

      1968 Dodge Charger SRT8 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed

      1964 Dodge Polara 8-71 Blown 440 / 4-speed

      1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 3.4L / 5-speed

      2013 Dodge Challenger R/T 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed





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