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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2018
      Posts
      434

      Proforged TALL upper ball joints.... GAP???

      Anyone installed the proforged tall upper bj's? Is there supposed to be a gap like this? I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be this way

      20190320_180331 by F G, on Flickr

      20190320_180348_001 by F G, on Flickr

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      322
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes, that's now they're supposed to look.
      - Ryan

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      DFW, Texas
      Posts
      422
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks "tall" to me.
      1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
      1976 Dodge D100 - Warlock
      2016 Subaru WRX - E30 Tune

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2011
      Location
      Chippewa Falls, WI
      Posts
      290
      Country Flag: United States
      no issues, that is normal. The only critial area is to know the tapered seat is torqued and tightened properly and this is for your spindle application.
      Justin N.

      1966 Chevelle
      1992 GMC Typhoon
      1989 Jeep Wrangler CJ 6.0 Twin Turbo
      1981 Jeep CJ7

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2018
      Posts
      434
      Quote Originally Posted by Typhoon1015 View Post
      no issues, that is normal. The only critial area is to know the tapered seat is torqued and tightened properly and this is for your spindle application.
      I Tightened till the bolt broke then backed off half a turn

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      Philipsburg, Pa
      Posts
      528
      Country Flag: United States
      It is 100% supposed to be like that. You're good to go.
      Technical Support
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    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,975
      Country Flag: United States
      Shmere some anti-seize on the exposed shank to keep it from rusting.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
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      I deliver what EFI promises.
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      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Central CA USA
      Posts
      6,108
      Country Flag: United States
      I cut a piece of heater hose and slip it over the stud shank before installing. Put some grease on the stud first.
      67 Camaro RS that will be faster than anything Mary owns.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2018
      Posts
      434
      David, I wish I would have thought about that before I installed them. Not sure i want to take it back apart to do it. A little antisieze will probably be the thing for now.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Out of the Burbs of Detroit to SoCal, then onto my ancestral homeland, the woods of Cascadia
      Posts
      1,753
      Country Flag: United States
      Since they are already installed, maybe spit the rubber hose to wrap it around and sacrifice a couplt tie wraps to keep it in plance? I did the heater hose since I didn't want the boot to drift and uncover the ball and socket
      Greg Fast
      (yes, the last name is spelled correctly)

      1970 Camaro RS Clone
      1984 el Camino
      1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
      (Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2018
      Posts
      434
      Quote Originally Posted by Twentyover View Post
      Since they are already installed, maybe spit the rubber hose to wrap it around and sacrifice a couplt tie wraps to keep it in plance? I did the heater hose since I didn't want the boot to drift and uncover the ball and socket
      I thought about that, I did go ahead and coat them real good with anti seize.







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