Results 41 to 60 of 119
-
03-22-2019 #41Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2017
- Location
- Omaha, NE
- Posts
- 54
-
03-22-2019 #42Registered User- Join Date
- Mar 2017
- Location
- Omaha, NE
- Posts
- 54
It was about the cheapest option at a transaxle. The only other relatively cheap one would be corvette transaxle. But due to the location of the output shafts it would really affect driver and passenger seating locations. Without extending the rear wheels back even further.
Haha, I think you could get one for under $200 at a junkyard. If you were to an LS in front of it you’re looking at another 1000$ for the adapter kit.
03-22-2019 #43I havent weighed it yet but my guesstimate is 2200 lbs. 5 lbs per hp is what I was shooting for and I think I'm there. It is a blast for sure. You have a weight goal in mind for yours?
So no firewall between engine and you? If so, it's going to be a hot ride! Even with my insulated engine compartment, it gets super hot inside if you aren't moving. No need for a heater Haha.1970 VW Bug - Just your average mid engine Bug
Track toy - 06 Evo - E85 and lots of boost
Newest track toy - 2021 Supra
03-23-2019 #44Registered User- Join Date
- Mar 2017
- Location
- Omaha, NE
- Posts
- 54
I hope to be around 2200-2500 but we will see. It’s really going to be a stretch to accomplish that.
There will be a firewall/bulkhead in front of the engine. I am going to use aluminum panels that can be removed so that I can work on the engine. The drivers compartment will be sealed off from the engine bay, I am also going to use some vents to help evacuate the hot air from in the engine compartment.
This is the basic layout for that firewall, gussets and possibly two more tubes may be added.
And here is what I am thinking for a rear window, but will have the shape of the of the c7 corvette rear window. Along with some intake vents along the b pillar (Eleanor style) I’m hoping air will flow through there pretty good.
03-23-2019 #45Registered User- Join Date
- Mar 2017
- Location
- Omaha, NE
- Posts
- 54
I can't seem to get the video saved in the proper format so I will link it to my page. https://www.instagram.com/p/BvXRo-5g...on_share_sheet
Here is one side completed, Everything is tacked into place. I checked how it went through its motions and I was pretty happy with the result. I Had a pivot point in the wrong point causing the the wheel to lose all camber going up (+) when it should be negative. Now the other side should be cake since I have already designed and cut out all the parts needed.
I have to make some bell cranks for my suspension, I have been trying to figure out what type of bearing to run on the pivot point, I think I found a good needle bearing with a thrust bearing on it. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3080 I am just not sure if I need a perfectly machined surface for the thrust to press against. Does a special type of bolt need to be used other than the obvious Grade 8? If anyone has an experience making or even servicing them, dropping some knowledge would be much appreciated.
I am also going to need to design a wheel mock up gauge that can hold a tire so that I can do all the quarter panel sheet metal work. Or has anyone ever used one that a company sells?
03-24-2019 #46Registered User- Join Date
- May 2017
- Posts
- 118
I have a 818R track car let me know if you need additional information.
03-24-2019 #47Registered User- Join Date
- May 2017
- Posts
- 118
I second the the WRX 5 speed issues with over 300hp and 300ftlbs The guys with hot rodded Subarus and 818's have issues, 3rd gear mostly.
03-24-2019 #48Registered User- Join Date
- Mar 2017
- Location
- Omaha, NE
- Posts
- 54
03-24-2019 #49Registered User- Join Date
- Jan 2019
- Location
- Colorado
- Posts
- 53