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    Results 1 to 6 of 6
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Pine Plains, NY
      Posts
      57
      Country Flag: United States

      wilwood pedal assemblies in first gen camaro

      Hey folks... The more I keep thinking about it and seeing it, I think I want to go manual brakes with a clean wilwood pedal setup and their firewall kit. IT looks super clean. What are your thoughts? I still have the MclEod clutch setup but I think i will go 100% Wilwood to drive my TR6060 trans.

      Any issues? Which pedal setup?



      Manual vs Power brakes? I do have a brand new crate LSA motor with the ZL1 hood.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jackson, MI
      Posts
      86
      Country Flag: United States
      Here's what I did.

      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...rst-gen-Camaro

      Learn from my struggles and do a better job.
      Works great though.
      Jason

      67' RS Camaro
      00' Z/28

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Pine Plains, NY
      Posts
      57
      Country Flag: United States
      This is great Jason! Thanks for taking the time to explain in your post. I see a lot of people using manual vs boosted? Engine doesn't make enough boost or better control of the brakes? I am kind of torn, on this... I like how clean it looks and basic. I am using a crate LSA motor with the TR6060 6spd.... What about daily driving with manual?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Orange County, CA
      Posts
      665
      I studied 67RS’s thread repeatedly when I was working on the pedals for my 55 Chevy. My design ended up different than his, but it gave me a lot of good ideas. Just remember that your main pedal bracket is also your steering column mount, so make sure to test fit it with the column in place and check the pedal clearance through their swing. Also keep in mind the amount of travel the pedal requires including carpet thickness. For example if the master has a 1” stroke and a 6:1 pedal ratio and carpet is say 1/2” thick you’ll need that pedal at least 6.5” up off of the toe board. And for the manual vs power brakes, your calipers will dictate what kind of system you can run. You’ll need large piston area calipers (5+” or so) to have a properly functioning manual system. Any smaller on the piston area you may have to consider boost, if not by vacuum then by hydroboost.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Pine Plains, NY
      Posts
      57
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 65 drop top View Post
      I studied 67RS’s thread repeatedly when I was working on the pedals for my 55 Chevy. My design ended up different than his, but it gave me a lot of good ideas. Just remember that your main pedal bracket is also your steering column mount, so make sure to test fit it with the column in place and check the pedal clearance through their swing. Also keep in mind the amount of travel the pedal requires including carpet thickness. For example if the master has a 1” stroke and a 6:1 pedal ratio and carpet is say 1/2” thick you’ll need that pedal at least 6.5” up off of the toe board. And for the manual vs power brakes, your calipers will dictate what kind of system you can run. You’ll need large piston area calipers (5+” or so) to have a properly functioning manual system. Any smaller on the piston area you may have to consider boost, if not by vacuum then by hydroboost.
      Thank You ! After speaking with Wilwood they recommended 5/8s bore up front and 3/4 bore in the rear to start. I do have their 6 piston setup up front and the 4 piston setup in the rear. I appreciate the pedal placement knowledge and I’m going to use their firewall mount that is avail as well. I’m a little confused about the 1” stroke part? I understand the others... looking at the bore that I mentioned and I have a Pedal Ratio of 6.25:1 ... I will assume 1/2 carpet.... should I still assume 6.75 off the toe board? Thank you in advance !

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Orange County, CA
      Posts
      665
      Once you get the master cylinders, or you can look it up on Wilwoods website, it will say how far the piston needs to travel inside of the master cylinder to function properly. You don’t want your pedal to bottom out on the floor before the master cylinder bottoms out, which would interfere with proper operation. You’ll have to do a little simple math to calculate how much travel you’ll need at the pedal pad to get the master cylinder to travel it’s full stroke. Basically you’re trying to prevent a bad situation, for example hard braking. Say you stomp on your brake pedal and it hits the floor but the cars not stopping yet. You want to push the pedal harder but you can’t because the floor is there. Now, had pedal height been set properly, you would still have a couple inches more pedal travel to use. So then you can keep pushing the pedal and the car will stop. And you mention you have the 6/4 piston wilwoods. They make them with different piston areas. You’ll want to look up the part numbers, or actually measure the pistons and we can determine piston area. This will dictate if you can run manual brakes.





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