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    Results 1 to 19 of 19
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2019
      Posts
      9

      Ridetech Street Grip kit review.

      Hi newbie here. This forum maybe a little hard core for this topic. I searched the internet for recent direct user reviews of the street grip package. The only reviews I can find are online magazine and YouTube videos from the time of the release or the sponsor’s website. I purchased a 1970 Pontiac Lemans Sport. The engine and suspension are are shot. It is a solid rust free car with a great interior. It will be a daily summer street driver on a budget hence the interest in the street grip package.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 62olds View Post
      Hi newbie here. This forum maybe a little hard core for this topic. I searched the internet for recent direct user reviews of the street grip package. The only reviews I can find are online magazine and YouTube videos from the time of the release or the sponsor’s website. I purchased a 1970 Pontiac Lemans Sport. The engine and suspension are are shot. It is a solid rust free car with a great interior. It will be a daily summer street driver on a budget hence the interest in the street grip package.
      I used a street grip package in a 71 Cutlass. I had to buy different lower control arms because mine had oval bushings. I also had to purchase UMI rear springs because the street grip springs were 2” longer than the stock springs and the car sat way too high. You have a Pontiac so maybe you will fare better. Ride of finished product was great. Just a lot of hassles getting there with a package that should have been so simple.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2019
      Posts
      9
      Thank you for sharing your experience. Ride height is so important to the look. It sits just right on 49 year old springs. Lol, hate to touch it. I also will need new lower control arms. Do you think the Delrin bushings are worth it? I will most likely be buying the front components first and then the rear.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
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      I am not really sure about the Delrin bushings. Maybe some new high quality rubber bushings would have a similar improvement. Those oval bushings are not good for handling though imho.

      Biggest bang for the buck is likely new shocks and progressive rate springs along with sway bars imho.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2019
      Posts
      9
      This is what I am working withName:  02047350-C0B0-4466-8F50-0351D5A38FCF.jpg
Views: 4356
Size:  177.6 KB

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2019
      Posts
      9
      That is helpful, Thank you. Vinny

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
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      If I was you I would ease into it with shocks and sway bars first. Then control arm bushings and springs, assuming you are ok with the current ride height and your bushings aren’t completely shot.

      Just imho, I am sure ridetech will have better advice.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2018
      Location
      Knoxville, TN
      Posts
      110
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow, that's a fantastic looking car! Given that you are calling this a Summer driver, I think the shocks and Delrin are both a bit more than you need, given the effort to be budget friendly.
      Personally, I would start out with some less expensive shocks, even something like KYB gas shocks, and plan to upgrade later. Here's how I would do it:
      1. Taller ball joints
      2. Polyurethane bushings (I think they are available). Much better than rubber, a little more compliant than Delrin
      3. Shocks - again, some non-adjustable but better than OEM gas ones.
      4. Steering linkage - don't overlook that, those ball joints get worn out and it isn't expensive. Available from Rock Auto pretty cheap.
      5. Springs to get the stance you are looking for.
      6. Bump steer kit (Global West makes just arms, I assume ridetech does, too - call them and ask).

      I assume you have decent brakes on the car. I think you could do all of the above for between 50-75% of the cost of the kit. Keep an eye out for used stuff, too. Not sure if this stuff is still available, a little more than the kit you referenced, but a lot more stuff. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ech?highlight=

      On edit - Not sure what all is common between the early and late A-Bodies. I know the rear upper/inner control arms are a different length, but I'm not sure that the front won't work. And I know you could sell the stuff from the rear if it doesn't work.
      67 GTO - Build underway
      66 Bronco U13 Roadster
      And a couple of 80's Porsches

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Mar 2019
      Posts
      9
      Standard manual 4 wheel drums. All new parts in the rear, as both wheel cylinders were leaking badly. Stops pretty good once you get used to no assistance. Steering linkage is all new Proforged parts. They appear to be quality parts. Will definitely use a taller upper ball joint. All bushings need replacement. I am trying not to use poly, I have had mixed results in other cars. Bigger wheels and front discs are planned for next year.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,291
      Country Flag: United States
      I'd take delrin based control arm bushings over poly any day.
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,155
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm frankly surprised that ridetech has not replied to this thread yet. Before you buy anything, you need to have a build plan so that you don't buy parts that will not work later. The one thing I try to recommend to anyone starting this sort of project is to pick a system and stick with one vendor for everything. Unless you are a suspension expert, it is far too easy to buy parts that don't work well together. Buying a kit from a single vendor will save you money and headache down the road. While you are upgrading the suspension this is the perfect time to also upgrade to 4 wheel disk brakes. All that said you can't go wrong with ridetech.
      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Given sufficient initial acceleration, even pigs can fly!

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
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      Quote Originally Posted by TheJDMan View Post
      I'm frankly surprised that ridetech has not replied to this thread yet. Before you buy anything, you need to have a build plan so that you don't buy parts that will not work later. The one thing I try to recommend to anyone starting this sort of project is to pick a system and stick with one vendor for everything. Unless you are a suspension expert, it is far too easy to buy parts that don't work well together. Buying a kit from a single vendor will save you money and headache down the road. While you are upgrading the suspension this is the perfect time to also upgrade to 4 wheel disk brakes. All that said you can't go wrong with ridetech.
      Have you installed an A body street grip package? I have and ended up with UMI springs in the rear and a refund check from Ridetech. So some mixing and matching there for sure. Several days farking around with their Delrin bushings before I finally conceded defeat and bought bushings from Howe Racing. No reimbursement from Ridetech for those. All in all something that should have been a piece of cake was far from it. All the while hearing that their engineer was adamant that what I was seeing was impossible....

      The funny thing is I pieced together a setup for my 64 GTO with ATS spindles, SPC arms, Hotchkis springs, Bilstein shocks, Hellwig sway bars and Currie arms and it was awesome, one of the best riding cars I have built.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Sep 2018
      Location
      Knoxville, TN
      Posts
      110
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      All the while hearing that their engineer was adamant that what I was seeing was impossible....

      The funny thing is I pieced together a setup for my 64 GTO with ATS spindles, SPC arms, Hotchkis springs, Bilstein shocks, Hellwig sway bars and Currie arms and it was awesome, one of the best riding cars I have built.

      Don
      I'm with you. Been in discussions where vendors contradict themselves, flat out don't believe you, treat you like an idiot, give information that contradicts information that is on their site, and one of the funnier ones was when one tech guy actually admitted I had lost him, and that he didn't understand what I was trying to explain - indicated that he was as a drag racing guy, though, so not really as up to speed on the handling things. Right now I have a setup that, if I follow what I am told to do by one of the tech guys to set the car up to do autocross (single vendor system, mind you), the car's frame will bottom out with a normal amount of travel. I'm not calling any vendor out for making crap, please don't take it that way. But what we are all trying to do with these cars is so far from what they were intended to do, and that the production variability is so crappy by today's standards that there is bound to be some hokey stuff.

      Shoot, anyone here ever heard of a Merkur XR4Ti? Weird European Ford wiht a 2.3 Turbo. ZERO aftermarket. Had to make everything for it. Lessie, Nissan 300ZX calipers with Cosworth Sierra rotors, a Turbo Coupe transmission, Mustang driveshaft, the Ford R&P on a GM F-Body takeout diff. Cut strut towers with Steeda Mustang (Fox body) 4 bolt CC plates. That's just some of what that frankenstein of a car had.

      Point is, it pays to do your research, here. At least get an understanding of what is going on, and what is trying to be accomplished. From my experience, all these guys rightfully keep their stuff close to the vest for proprietary reasons

      FWIW, on the Delrin comments. I've had PU on street cars with no ill affects. My race car (Porsche 944T) has Delrin in some of the rear points, and it is really freakin' loud through the pits, albeit with no interior/sound deadening at all. Apples to oranges on design, but just an FYI.
      67 GTO - Build underway
      66 Bronco U13 Roadster
      And a couple of 80's Porsches

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2019
      Posts
      9
      Quote Originally Posted by TheJDMan View Post
      I'm frankly surprised that ridetech has not replied to this thread yet. Before you buy anything, you need to have a build plan so that you don't buy parts that will not work later. The one thing I try to recommend to anyone starting this sort of project is to pick a system and stick with one vendor for everything. Unless you are a suspension expert, it is far too easy to buy parts that don't work well together. Buying a kit from a single vendor will save you money and headache down the road. While you are upgrading the suspension this is the perfect time to also upgrade to 4 wheel disk brakes. All that said you can't go wrong with ridetech.
      Sticking with one vendor was also my train of thought. I like the idea of of the variable rate springs. This car is just for some spirited driving, don’t need coil-overs or 4 Wheel disc. I have a 73 Cadillac Coupe DeVille with front disc rear drums that will stop a freight train. I know Hochkiss and UMI make great parts but I am afraid that the ride will be too stiff for the bad roads here on Long Island.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Mar 2019
      Posts
      9
      Quote Originally Posted by 67King View Post
      I'm with you. Been in discussions where vendors contradict themselves, flat out don't believe you, treat you like an idiot, give information that contradicts information that is on their site, and one of the funnier ones was when one tech guy actually admitted I had lost him, and that he didn't understand what I was trying to explain - indicated that he was as a drag racing guy, though, so not really as up to speed on the handling things. Right now I have a setup that, if I follow what I am told to do by one of the tech guys to set the car up to do autocross (single vendor system, mind you), the car's frame will bottom out with a normal amount of travel. I'm not calling any vendor out for making crap, please don't take it that way. But what we are all trying to do with these cars is so far from what they were intended to do, and that the production variability is so crappy by today's standards that there is bound to be some hokey stuff.

      Shoot, anyone here ever heard of a Merkur XR4Ti? Weird European Ford wiht a 2.3 Turbo. ZERO aftermarket. Had to make everything for it. Lessie, Nissan 300ZX calipers with Cosworth Sierra rotors, a Turbo Coupe transmission, Mustang driveshaft, the Ford R&P on a GM F-Body takeout diff. Cut strut towers with Steeda Mustang (Fox body) 4 bolt CC plates. That's just some of what that frankenstein of a car had.

      Point is, it pays to do your research, here. At least get an understanding of what is going on, and what is trying to be accomplished. From my experience, all these guys rightfully keep their stuff close to the vest for proprietary reasons

      FWIW, on the Delrin comments. I've had PU on street cars with no ill affects. My race car (Porsche 944T) has Delrin in some of the rear points, and it is really freakin' loud through the pits, albeit with no interior/sound deadening at all. Apples to oranges on design, but just an FYI.
      Thank you all for your input. This is reason for starting this post. So many questions, and options to choose from on shocks, springs etc. I used both Bilstein and KYB before in daily drivers and the improvements were only slightly better, so if someone has thoughts on the HQs or QA1s. Also Hotchkis has sport suspension packages #89006, 89006, 80006. Please share your thoughts. I will stick factory control arms in the front,buy a set round lowers. Still up to in the air PU vs Rubber.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Sep 2018
      Location
      Knoxville, TN
      Posts
      110
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 62olds View Post
      Thank you all for your input. This is reason for starting this post. So many questions, and options to choose from on shocks, springs etc. I used both Bilstein and KYB before in daily drivers and the improvements were only slightly better, so if someone has thoughts on the HQs or QA1s. Also Hotchkis has sport suspension packages #89006, 89006, 80006. Please share your thoughts. I will stick factory control arms in the front,buy a set round lowers. Still up to in the air PU vs Rubber.
      Best advice I can give you is to take your time and learn what you can. And that can be hard, because what you are building (street car) may be very, very different from what others are building. I have much more experience around lightweight, road race cars than I do pro-touring cars. And I personally don't like the twin tube design shocks from having rebuilt several sets of them (Leda's). But......that's a ridiculous perspective to put onto a street car! So if you read something somewhere that says something is bad, give it some critical thought. Plus, you might happen across something that is 10 times better than what you need right now, but that is slightly used, and fits your budget, which would allow you to get more than you think you can right now.
      67 GTO - Build underway
      66 Bronco U13 Roadster
      And a couple of 80's Porsches

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Mar 2019
      Posts
      9
      Thank you for your suggestions, I did not consider used components that might be available.



    18. #18
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Posts
      1,414
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 62olds View Post
      Hi newbie here. This forum maybe a little hard core for this topic. I searched the internet for recent direct user reviews of the street grip package. The only reviews I can find are online magazine and YouTube videos from the time of the release or the sponsor’s website. I purchased a 1970 Pontiac Lemans Sport. The engine and suspension are are shot. It is a solid rust free car with a great interior. It will be a daily summer street driver on a budget hence the interest in the street grip package.
      Obviously, I'm a little biased because I work here... However, I can say that the '71 Chevelle that we used as our Streetgrip test mule was by far one of the best driving, cruising hotrods that I've ever been in. The Streetgrip kit was designed to be our easy, more economic, fun/daily driver kit. Out of the box, it's set up for around 2" lowered stance. Between the dual rate springs and the HQ shocks, we're shooting for a mix between a nice plush driver, and something you can stick in the corners. When you're feeling a little more spirited, you can adjust the shocks to a more firm setting, or dial them down for a softer ride. The delrin bushings get rid of the stiction that rubber and poly bushings create, allowing the spring and shock combo we put in this kit to do their jobs 100%. Each piece in the kit plays a vital part in my opinion, they all work well with each other. We're shooting for the best bang for buck kit! :D


      Ridetech Suspsension
      Tech Specialist
      Phone: 812.481.4734

      Project Fox
      1979 Trans Am

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Mar 2019
      Posts
      9
      Quote Originally Posted by Josh@ridetech View Post
      Obviously, I'm a little biased because I work here... However, I can say that the '71 Chevelle that we used as our streetgrip test mule was by far one of the best driving, cruising hotrods that I've ever been in. The Streetgrip kit was designed to be our easy, more economic, fun/daily driver kit. Out of the box, it's set up for around 2" lowered stance. Between the dual rate springs and the HQ shocks, we're shooting for a mix between a nice plush driver, and something you can stick in the corners. When you're feeling a little more spirited, you can adjust the shocks to a more firm setting, or dial them down for a softer ride. The delrin bushings get rid of the stiction that rubber and poly bushings create, allowing the spring and shock combo we put in this kit to do their jobs 100%. Each piece in the kit plays a vital part in my opinion, they all work well with each other. We're shooting for the best bang for buck kit! :D
      Hi Josh question for you. I picked up a pair reproduction front lower control arms with round holes. What is the diameter of the front and rear Delrin bushings for the front lower control arms? I believe that these control arms are specked for a 1967 Chevelle. Will these fit on my 70 Pontiac Lemans?





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