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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    113
    I was able to do a little more troubleshooting on my welding machine. Turns out the flow meter was way off, I purchased an external flow gauge to find out. It requires roughly twice as much air to achieve the correct CFH. With running the machine in DC you dont notice it as much but while in AC on aluminum it was horrible. Below is a picture of the 1/2" bungs I welded on the bottom of the intake, they were very rough and I cleaned them up a hair after the machine was operating normal again. Also laid down some SS welds to see if they would be better than before with the correct CFH and they look a little better than before. Did a little practice without a back purge on some 304 tubing to do a little practice for my upcoming exhaust build I'll be doing soon. If you are unaware, you need a purge or flux to protect the back side of the stainless welds from oxygen due to the stainless being reactive while welding, it will look like crap as seen in the photo below.





  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    113
    I got a driveshaft ordered from Inland Empire and it looks pretty nice. The customer service was great and they helped me to get the correct yoke for the 10-speed. I had a brain fart though... I ordered the driveshaft with a 1350 series u-joint for my rearend because I was 100% sure thats what I was running. Turns out I had the 1330 series pinion yoke installed. Ended up purchasing a 1350 pinion yoke to solve the problem. Now I have two extra pinion yokes if someone wants one since Curry sent me the incorrect 1310 yoke initially and now I have the extra 1330 yoke.



    I was able to install the lower radiator hose too, I just used some 1.75" SS tubing and silicone elbows to connect it. I'll be working on the upper hose in the next few weeks. What I have now does not look very appealing so I'll use more SS tubing to match the lower section.



    I'm always learning and I have never really made custom lines for power steering so this was a learning experience. Turns out that you cannot use leftover 5/8" heater hose for the power steering reservoir feed hose. The hose looks like it is sweating fluid out of it, the fluid just ate its way through the hose. I purchased some actual PS hose and swapped it out. This had me question the return line coming off the steering box to the reservoir. This was also leftover hose from the fuel system and from what I was reading fuel hose cannot be used either. I contacted the manufacture of the hose and they said it will be fine as long as its on the lower pressure side as the hose is rated for PS fluid.








  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    113
    Here's a few pictures of the engine bay after I fixed the PS line and installed the air filter. I also ran the trans lines to the radiator but did not like how it turned out, I could not get a tight enough 90 degree bend to clear the intake. I ordered a tight radius 90 and I'm planning on changing this once I get the new part. Got the new rear brake line installed and hooked up the ebrakes, just need to bleed the brakes and adjust the ebrakes accordingly.



    Just waiting on the engine harness and I'll be starting the exhaust in then next few weeks. Maybe a few other little things left and then I'll be able to start it.






  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    113
    I got some 1.5" 304 tubing to build my upper radiator hose rather than use what you have seen in the previous photos. It only took about an hour or so and looks a lot better to cut up a U bend and make a few welds. I also incorporated a 1/4" tube to be used as the steam port. The 1/4" tube runs through the 1/5" tube and is extended in enough so it hits the high point of the system. These parts and a few couplers and t-bolt clams made it all fit nicely.

    I have also changed the trans cooler line fitting at the radiator to make for a cleaner look.






  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    391
    nice progress!
    1971 Camaro - 406 / T56
    2016 Camaro SS convertible
    2018 Colorado 4x4

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    113
    I shopped around for an exhaust system for a little while looking for a good system to fit the Ridtech rear and just couldnt find it. One way or another it would need to be adjusted to fit my needs with the rear and the headers. Price was another concern, the cheaper ones came in 409ss and I preferred getting a kit with 309ss if I was to spend over $600. I ended up buying a 3" 309ss builder kit from speed engineering and Borla PorXS mufflers, also 309ss. The total cost was $350 plus blood sweat and tears. It was a little time consuming TIG welding and back purging everything but it ended up turning out pretty nice, better than I thought actually. Nothing like building something yourself!

    The builder kit came in slip fit and I opted for slip fit on the mufflers too, this made things a little easier for fitting. For the most part I had to stick it in place and clamp it, then weld it. I started bu hanging the mufflers and used some scrap .065" wall 3/8" ss tubing as the hangers, much cheaper and lighter if it matters than 3/8" solid $10 a piece ss bar hangers and they are surely capable of doing their job.

    I first hung the header, got the angle right to ovoid hitting he rear center section. I then fitted the x-pipe front section to the headers and tacked my Ultimate Headers low profile flanges on. If any of you purchase these low profile flanges you need to get a good quality fastener. The one that came with it from Ultamate Headers is a nice ARP flanged SS bolt and a non-SS nut of lesser quality. The first attempt to tighten everything lead to the nut galling up on both clamps and I had to cut both of the nice ARP bolts to release the clamps. I ended up going to the hardware store and purchasing some matching Grade 8 fasteners and they worked out great taking them on and off a few times. Ultimate headers offered to send out replacements but I did not want to wait. After a lot of cutting and welding I was done, I added a little bit of tension to the to the rear hangers to keep the system nice and sturdy. Like I mentioned a while back, the PS header is tucked in real close and the crossmember did not line up good so I cut off about 1/8" of the crossmembers exhaust relief to make room rather than making more cuts and welds on the exhaust.

    For now I dumped the exhaust before rear and it may stay like this forever or I might change it to go under the axle and exit out the rear if I don't like the sound.
















  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    SC
    Posts
    37
    That came out really nice.

    Daniel

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    113
    Thanks!



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