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    Results 1 to 17 of 17
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99

      Next step: Soda blast and body work?

      Hello,

      My name is Andrew and by the end of summer 2019 I'll be ready to take one more step forward with my build. Last year I had the undercarriage, floor pans, trunk and firewall media blasted and painted. I also went ahead and installed my DSE sub frame, sub frame connectors and cage with the help of my Dad. We also cut the transmission tunnel for a T56 magnum.

      I know going about a project in stages always turns out to be more expensive and time consuming versus just having a full blown build done at once but I’ll never be in a position to drop 80,000 cash on a build like many on this forum seem to be able to do. So here I am, slowly chipping away in stages when the wife, life and money allows for it.

      My dilemma at the moment is “when I should begin tackling the body work this car deserves/needs”.

      At some point this car will need to be stripped, DA sanded, primed and painted but WHEN should I tackle that stage next? WHEN does that make the most sense?

      The interior pans, trunk and undercarriage are now perfect, the DSE sub frame is powder coated and welded to the car/sub frame connectors. I do NOT have the motor or transmission (and won’t have them for at least another 4-5 years from now). Am I at the point now where the money I plan on throwing at this car NEXT should be towards soda blasting the exterior, DA sanding it and laying down sealer/primer?

      My thought process would be to have it blasted, DA sanded to bare metal and sealed. Then I’d like to have all body work done, all body lines lined up and perfected and then direct my effort towards brakes, fuel, motor etc. Only after ALL of that actually paint the car. Is leaving a car in primer, unpainted for years (an extended period of time LIKE YEARS) just asking for trouble? I’m out of my element when it comes to proper order of operations in regards to body work and not sure if I should hold off on body work until the very end or bite that bullet next.

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      Thank you,
      Andrew

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2017
      Location
      pickering ontario canada
      Posts
      196
      Country Flag: Canada
      That thing looks mean already.
      What engine are u planning to run ?
      1971 chevelle LSA 700hp -

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      Thanks man. God I love it.

      Planning on an Ls7. Hoping for a crate Ls7 from Mast motorsports if money allows along with a built T56. If the money isn't right I could deal with a Texas Speed Ls7. I really want 700 crank horsepower. There's really no reason why I think I need 700; it's just a number I've always wanted for some reason.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      641
      So a couple of options.

      1. Soda blast. Clean the residue from the soda blast, DA and then epoxy prime. Stored INDOORS it should be fine for years.
      2. Leave as is until you can do the soda blast, epoxy prime and all body work including a couple rounds 2K of block sanding to get everything straight then let it sit for a while (years) stored indoors and let the primer shrink as much as it ever will. When you are ready for paint scuff the 2K seal and then paint.

      If you remove the old paint and even if you don't keep it inside not under a car cover.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      Soda blasting can lead to paint adhesion issues. Do some research....

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      N. Scottsdale
      Posts
      376
      Country Flag: United States
      Since you don’t seem to be in a rush, you could tackle it in sections, sanding and chemical stripper.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      I blast jambs etc but strip flat panels with 80 grit on a DA. Then SPI epoxy.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      641
      I've done aircraft stripper on the large flat areas staying away from any seams it could creep into. The factory paint and primer is the toughest to remove. Typically it takes two or even three applications. Keep in mind aircraft stripper is really nasty stuff. Full face shield, heavy duty rubber gloves and really good ventilation. Put heavy poly film under to keep the stripped paint and aircraft stripper off the floor. Check your local rules for disposal since some areas consider it hazardous waste. After all the paint is gone clean it with water and dry. Then the clean again with acetone. Dry completely. After that DA so the primer will stick.

      Then I sand blast all the edges.

      Or DA all the large panels then sand blast the edges.

      I've only done one project using soda blast and then only on a bunch of small parts like glove box doors and ash tray doors. I cleaned them with acetone and the scuffed with 3M pads. Been a couple of years with no lifting of paint.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      What Don said above on both counts. I've heard too many horror stories about paint and soda blasting.

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      Quote Originally Posted by 79 Camaro View Post
      So a couple of options.

      1. Soda blast. Clean the residue from the soda blast, DA and then epoxy prime. Stored INDOORS it should be fine for years.
      2. Leave as is until you can do the soda blast, epoxy prime and all body work including a couple rounds 2K of block sanding to get everything straight then let it sit for a while (years) stored indoors and let the primer shrink as much as it ever will. When you are ready for paint scuff the 2K seal and then paint.

      If you remove the old paint and even if you don't keep it inside not under a car cover.
      Thanks everyone.

      I tracked down a somewhat local shop to me that specializes in Firebird/Camaro restorations.

      The plan is to chemically strip the car and perform all body work with all sheet metal assembled. I'll then leave the entire car assembled while I finish the powerplant, fuel, brakes and wiring.

      The paint guy I spoke to suggested not only to get the car's body work done and sealed up and to leave it assembled while I finish up everything else...but then when it comes time to finally paint the car to remove all front sheet metal (fenders and hood) for painting.

      I'm not entirely sure why this makes sense but he was adamant about that being the proper method. I assume this is in regards to getting the engine bay painted along with the inner fender walls.

      Regardless, I think chemically stripping it is the route I'm going to take.

      I've heard different things about body panels NOT rusting after chemically stripping them because the factory etching doesn't get lifted. If that is the case I'd like to strip the car myself. But I've also heard that panels after stripping can still rust.

      Does anyone have any input of the above? Might have to start another thread on this question.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      641
      Once you strip panels down to bare metal however it is done they have to be cleaned. If you use air craft stripper do one panel, door or fender at time. After you are down to bare metal wash it off with water and then acetone to make sure you have clean surface. Go over the panel with a DA sander so the epoxy primer will bite into it. Depending on where you live humidity wise apply epoxy primer and sand blast the edges, clean and apply epoxy primer. That will keep the flash rust away. If you use aircraft stripper it will take all paint and primer off down to the bare metal. If you apply the stripper to panel and run into body filler you must (according to my body guy) remove all the filler because the stripper will soak in some what and will risk lifting the primer or new paint some time in the future.

      If you are painting the car a solid non-metallic color it's easier to have all the panels off the car. You will want to test fit all the panels after the required body work is done and prior to painting to check gaps. Painting panels off the car makes it much easier to get into the small nooks and crannies I assume you are going to remove the wind shield and back glass.

      If you are doing a metallic color I'm thinking they will want to paint the car with all the panels on the car. Check with the body shop.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Feb 2017
      Posts
      99
      Awesome. I'm following along now.

      The car is in a great stage to strip really. Glass is all removed, all front sheet metal is off the car. It has never been in an accident so there's no bondo under there.

      The only hurdle I have to reconcile with now is buying an air compressor. No point in stripping this thing without getting some epoxy on it right after.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      641
      One thing to consider if you have chosen a body shop is to strip the panels completely and then take them down to the body shop for their inspection and then have them spray the epoxy primer. Most body shops won't guarantee the paint job if they don't know what's under the primer.
      Also they have a certain brand of materials they use every day. They typically don't charge much to spray primer if the panel is prepped and ready to prime.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Sep 2017
      Posts
      120
      My Build: 1966 Nova SS Build, I am leaving the 30-30 paint on the car. 30-30 refers to 30 feet or 30MPH paint looks ok. it will provide a good foundation for paint blocking out or future removal. We are focusing getting the car running and driving and tuned. Driving the car should revive the energy. Painting the exterior is a whole another chapter and I want to be prepared for that cost.

      We will do show quality under the hood, interior, underneath the car, trunk and behind all removable body parts while the car is being built.

      i would say leave the exterior paint on the car and get it done, driving and tuned and then think about painting the exterior. Unfortunately many projects get started and not finished and then sold at a loss due to the monumental lists of tasks and costs. Break your car build project up into bite size pieces and get it to the point it is a reliable driver before painting and then those parking lot dings won't hurt so much. The paint that is on it is free and keeping your fine ride from rusting. Paint costs money to apply as well as remove.

      And when you can take your wife for a ride or hand her the keys, she will like the car a whole lot more and may be more receptive to the cost of the paint job! Keep the boss happy!

      You can practice your painting skills and do the under hood and other mentioned area in your garage and save a whole lot of coin!
      Last edited by HotWheelz; 02-13-2019 at 09:27 PM. Reason: And when...

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2017
      Posts
      120
      I noticed you mentioned you did not have an engine or tranny. I recommend keeping your eyes peeled for a deal on a decent used big block and a TH400 or 350 to make your car a driver until you find the engine of your dreams or a ready to build it.

      It's a lot of fun driving a car while you are building it.

      Just sayin...

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Location
      Kankakee IL
      Posts
      362
      I've painted my cars in the past and was advised by some of the paint techs to go from primer to color in a relatively short amount of time as primer can absorb moisture which could affect paint adhesion. You CAN shoot and leave a car in primer for a long period of time but be prepaired to sand that layer off and completely respray in fresh primer when it's time for final paint.
      Tracey

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      230
      Walnut blasting is popular around where I live. It isn't as abrasive as sand blasting and does a fantastic job. Being in the autobody industry I try to stay away from chemical stripping anymore from the issues I have seen in the past. These issues are disposal of waste is in most states toxic waste and can get expensive. If it gets into seams it is really hard to get out and a tiny bit left that is unknown can cause hell down the road and it is really messy. The last car I stripped in my garage years ago left a strong smell in the garage at home for about a month and my wife didn't let me forget about it that whole time. lol
      All painters are different and most can paint any color with the parts off the car but it is completely up to the painter how he wants to paint it. Me personally I like parts painted off of the car because it leaves no tape lines or paint edges and is a much cleaner paint job.
      As far as leaving in primer. Primer is like a sponge and absorbs everything. Here is the process I did on a Chevelle that I just finished that I knew is going to be left in primer for who knows how long.
      I restored a 65 pro stock Chevelle and he wanted the primer look. I stripped the whole car mechanically meaning using sandpaper and then did all my metal work then put epoxy down. I then did all my bodywork, primed blocked etc. When all done blocking the primer I primed it one last time and use a very cheap flat clear on it to seal everything up. It still has the primer look but when touched with dirty hands it won't stain and also won't absorb water or anything else.
      Wow that was a lot of typing first thing in the morning lol







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