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    1. #41
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      The car looks great with those seats. I like the wheels and the white lettered tires.

      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK


    2. #42
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Well, I suppose its been a minute...not due to lack of progress on the car, but most of it has been the frustrating, unexciting progress that exists between the glamor shots of cool aftermarket parts, and actually getting a functional car on the road.

      For starters, I realized shortly after buttoning up the steering that there was still a good bit of slop in the system overall. This led me to rebuilding the steering column. Fortunately in these cars, you can pull the shaft out from the top, and replace the upper and lower bearings without actually removing the column from the dash.

      OLD UPPER BEARING:
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      OLD LOWER BEARING:
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      NEW UPPER BEARING INSTALLED:
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      NEW LOWER BEARING INSTALLED:
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      After getting everything buttoned up, I still had small spots of resistance in the steering travel. Everything was lined up perfectly, with no extreme angles on the U-joints.... but on closer inspection found this:
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      You can see the aluminum transfer from the inside of the U-joint as it just barely scrapes the tip of the steering shaft. I had read other write-ups on the steeroids install alluding to trimming the steering shaft. Fortunately, I invested in a Fein cold saw a few weeks ago for these types of occasions (I really hate the death wheel). I took 3/10s off the end of the shaft and everything buttoned up perfectly. The slightly bind in the steering is gone, as is any residual slop. I'm very excited to get it out on the road as it finally has the feel of a proper, manual steering set up.

      To that end, the car is finally back on the ground after almost a year!
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      Terrible picture, I know, but I don't have a whole lot of space in which to work. The ride height is currently in 4x4 territory, but I'm going to let it settle for a few days before I start messing with anything, to include the alignment.


      It took far longer than it should have, but I finally got the front sway bar issues properly sorted.... backing up a bit, the pieces I chose for my suspension are not accidental. All of my decisions with regards to parts were made after reading Herb Adams articles on this chasis as well as Fred Puhn's "How To Make Your Car Handle". That was followed up with multiple conversations with Corvette Forum members with more knowledge and experience than I. To that end, I settled on retaining the factory springs and going to a SLIGHTLY bigger front bar.... the 13/16" bar out of the '73-'74 cars. This decision was based on many things, most notably the limitations of the 15" tire, and the fact that this will remain a street car, so ride quality was a consideration as well as predictable handling. These cars in stock form tend towards understeer with snap oversteer at the limits...obviously not ideal. The marginally bigger bar on a factory spring car with 15 inch tires is significantly more progressive and predictable at the limit.

      The challenge however has been finding pillow block bushings to mount the C3 bar in the C2 chasis. There was no 13/16" bar available in the C2, and the C3 had significantly bigger sway bar mounting brackets, so finding a bushing, either rubber or poly, with a 13/16" inside diameter that would fit the C2 mounting brackets was impossible. As you can see from the photo below, I tried multiple different bushings to include C3 and C1. In the end, the right answer was a set of stock replacement 3/4" C2 poly bushings that I put in the freezer for a few days, and then clearanced another 16th with the dremel to properly fit the 13/16" bar. Some recommend rubber for the pillow blocks and poly for the end links because the bar does move slightly under load, and while the rubber will give, the poly will eventually wear. That being said, I chose to stick with the poly knowing that it I will need to replace them every so often as it was much easier to grind down the stiff poly vs. the rubber.

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      The last little hiccup are my seat brackets. I thought I had measured very carefully before sending the dimensions out. You can see that the riser in the front is only .5" off the floor with the rear being 1.5" off the floor. This gives you a perfectly level mounting surface that just clears the carpet and padding when the feet are directly on the mounting points. This does however mean that you can't install the mounting bolts from the top. My solution was to drill out the threaded mounting points in the floor, have captive nuts welded to the brackets, and then install all of the bolts from under the car. This results in a very simple installation while keeping the seat as far down and aft as possible. The only issue is that the brackets are perfectly square in all dimensions, and the floor of the car is not, so once you have 3 or 4 of the bolts mounted the remaining holes are off by a 16th or two. The best solution I could think of was to start over. So I'm having another set of the exact same brackets fabricated, but without any mounting holes or captive nuts. Ill then coat the mounting points with blue dykem, and then mark the holes from the bottom of the car. After the holes are drilled, and verified, my buddy will weld the nuts onto the new brackets in the same fashion. I did a test fit with the seats, and I gain approximately a much needed inch in head room and an inch in leg room. The head room was especially nice as my hair no longer brushes the ceiling and I'm actually looking through the windshield as opposed to being eye level with the visor. As for weight, its roughly a wash with the stock seats. I forgot to put them on a scale before they went into storage, but if I were to guess, I'd say the new pieces and mounting bracket are 2-5 pounds lighter than factory....likely due to the lack or sliders.
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      And one last pic because it makes me happy.....15" R-compound fake Good Years, Torque Thrusts, disc brakes, with Trans Am lugs...absolute perfection after I fix the ride height!!
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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    3. #43
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Well...pulling a page from the book of 3 steps forward, 2 steps back, I give you:

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      I had gotten everything buttoned up and was verifying the tension on the parking brake cable....specifically the last step in the AIM, verifying that the wheels spun freely with no drag when I heard a big "clunk" from the other side of the car. It would appear that the C-clip on that side fell out/let go. Initially I was pretty pissed. But in retrospect, it was probably good that it happened this way for a few reasons. To start with, the rear in this car has had a "clunk" when backing out of the garage ever since I brought it home. I'm just glad this didn't happen half way through power tour, on the highway or on some road trip in the middle of nowhere. Additionally, this may be part of my problem with getting the rear alignment dialed in.

      So given my options, I've been in touch with one of the members on the Corvette forum about rebuild options. I'm leaning towards his standard "blueprint" build using a '72-'79 case, but he wanted me to pull this one out, open it up, and send him pics before we settle on a specific plan. Given that everything will need to come out, I dove right in after work.....

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      In the interest of time, I cut the stock exhaust off. I had planned to eventually replace it...mostly because some of the welds in the mufflers had rusted through, and I hate doing things twice. Additionally, I hate how the factory exhaust doesn't have any way to remove just the mufflers to help access/work on the rear without removing the pipes all the way forward to the frame pass through. Whatever I decide to replace this system with, I'm going to have a shop weld in V-band clamps at the joint in front of the frame pass through, as well as just before the mufflers. This will make it much easier to remove and reinstall sections of the system to facilitate other maintenance in the future.

      I managed to get the exhaust out, and the rear spring removed before the wife got home from work. I really hate the springs in these cars....front and rear. Initially I was against coil overs due to the fact that I'm not building a race car or pro touring poster child, but I've had the front and rear apart and back together enough times now that I would consider going coil overs just for the packaging convenience and ease of installation. Anyway, I luckily have tomorrow off, so I should be able to get the strut bracket removed, driveshaft and half shafts disconnected, and the diff dropped. Ill post pics once I've got it open and we can all compare notes on whatever carnage may or may not exist.

      I made sure I had enough "supplies" to finish the job

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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    4. #44
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    5. #45
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      1,074
      Country Flag: United States
      C-clip let go... but why? And what's that chunk/dent in the diff about?
      SMSgt Ty Ingle, USAF
      "CF71" - Freedom Bird
      Hoodpins.com, Inland Empire Driveline, Billet Accessories Direct, Modo Innovations, AutoRad Radiators, Morris Classic Concepts, Marquez Design, Anvil Auto, Fesler Billet, US Collision (DOOM), AGR Performance, Pro-touringF-body.com, Phoenix Transmission Products, Shiftworks, ACC Carpet, Hedman Hedders, BMR Fabrication, American Autowire, MityMounts, TIN INDIAN Performance, Kauffman Racing Equipment, Pypes, RobbMc Performance, WMC, Holley, NOS, PST

    6. #46
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Dont know, dont care. The ‘63-‘64 diffs are junk. I found a clean ‘79 core in CA that Im having shipped to a guy in CT that specializes in blueprinting and rebuilding Corvette differentials. Given my meager power levels and small tires, the diff will last forever.
      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    7. #47
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Not super exciting, but progress none the less....got the crusty original manifolds pulled. Those along with the hardware will be bagged and tagged and join my ever growing pile of original parts.

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      In looking at the available space, I'm still not convinced that long tubes are going to fit in here due to the steering linkage from the R&P on the drivers side and the bracket holding the rack in place on the passenger side, but I guess we'll find out. At the moment, I have a set of American Racing Headers on order. They're designed for a '68-'79 Corvette, but given that the chassis are the same, they SHOULD work. ARH is allowing me to fit these at no risk, if they dont fit, they're allowing me to return them for a full refund. My fall back plan is the shorty headers that Stainless works makes.

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      The last little bit of clean up before the headers arrive is to build two new battery cables, and reroute some of the wiring going to the starter. I dont like how they cross over what would be the collector area. Slightly longer battery cables will allow me to keep the whole harness along the firewall, then come directly forward from the back of the starter as opposed to going across that open space. That will make it easier to install the pipes without damaging the wires, and prevent them from touching any collector or mid pipes.

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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    8. #48
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Jersey Shore
      Posts
      695
      Country Flag: United States
      Gary is the man when it comes to rebuilding these diffs... Like you said, better to find it now!
      -Chris
      '69 Corvette
      '55 Chevy Hardtop
      AutoWorks Middletown, NJ
      @autoworksnj for corvette and shop car pics
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...e-Build-Thread

    9. #49
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Absolutely, and he's been great to work with. I've got a '79 core that should be here on Wednesday. After I verify its as advertised, Ill ship it up to him in CT. Fortunately, he's only a few weeks out on work as opposed to his usual few months.
      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    10. #50
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok, donor diff from CA just arrived. Its out of a '79 with 3.55 gears, so I'm going to reuse my '64 cover but the rest of it looks pretty good. Hoping to have it shipped off to Gary by this weekend or early next week at the latest. Given my modest power levels and skinny tires, I'm going with the Gary's standard "blueprint build" with 3.70 gears. Looking forward to getting this thing put back together!!

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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    11. #51
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      1,074
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking forward to the progress... and pictures!
      SMSgt Ty Ingle, USAF
      "CF71" - Freedom Bird
      Hoodpins.com, Inland Empire Driveline, Billet Accessories Direct, Modo Innovations, AutoRad Radiators, Morris Classic Concepts, Marquez Design, Anvil Auto, Fesler Billet, US Collision (DOOM), AGR Performance, Pro-touringF-body.com, Phoenix Transmission Products, Shiftworks, ACC Carpet, Hedman Hedders, BMR Fabrication, American Autowire, MityMounts, TIN INDIAN Performance, Kauffman Racing Equipment, Pypes, RobbMc Performance, WMC, Holley, NOS, PST

    12. #52
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Waleska Ga.
      Posts
      2,710
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice Vette!
      looking forward to updates!
      David Sloan

      If you’re suggesting sending men with weapons of war to take my weapons of war,then I’m fairly certain that’s what’s called an act of war… and the definition of tyranny.which coincidentally is the reason for the second amendment to begin with!


      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ght=fun+camaro

      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...lcamino-build!

    13. #53
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Decided to tackle the Hurst shifter while waiting on diff parts. I've been dreading this for a while, but decided to bite the bullet while the exhaust was already out and there were no seats in the car. Rest assured, it was as painful as advertised. I did use the aftermarket (not Hurst) steel bushings instead of the plastic pieces of crap that come with the kit. I also ended up making multiple hardware store runs as the assortment of nuts and bolts supplied with the kit is terrible. One key feature, I fed the shifter in from the top.....replacing the bulky lock washer and regular washer with slim Nord-Lok washers allowed both mounting bolts on the shifter body to slide far enough into the shifter to slide through the console. That was not possible with the stack of Home Depot hardware supplied with the kit.

      Thankfully, everything worked perfectly after all the adjustments were made. It really does feel like a bolt action rifle now....zero slop. The cheap plastic shift ball and shifter lever are going to be replaced with much nicer pieces....unless Hurst wants to pay me for advertising their stuff...I only had them installed to adjust the stops.

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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    14. #54
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      New shift lever from Lokar. Its about an inch longer than the Hurst lever, but I like having the shifter a little closer to the steering wheel. The incrementally longer throw also takes just a bit of the effort out of the Hurst shifter while retaining the smooth mechanical feel. I like the brushed finish and the design as it plays well with the brushed dual spokes on the steering wheel.

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      On to the shift knob.....this thing has a lot of history. Its an aftermarket leather knob from who knows where, that my dad ran in his Corvette back in the day....I believe a '78. When he sold the car when I was born, he kept the knob. He never got another Corvette, but the knob was always bouncing around in his office junk drawer. When I bought my first Corvette, a '99 FRC back in 2002 (with my monthly ROTC book/computer/meal stipend), I installed this knob on the shifter. Shortly there after, the lot boy at the local Chevy dealership took the car out for a joyride while it was in for some work, and flipped it at 110 miles per hour.

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      I climbed the fence into the impound yard where the wreck was being kept for the insurance appraiser, specifically to retrieve the shift knob. It has since been in a 2002 Z06, 2003 Z06, 1968 Convertible, 1969 Convertible, and now, my '64 Coupe....which will likely be the last car it sees.

      In order to get it to fit the Lokar lever, I had to remove the original thread insert, grind down the splines that held it in place, and then bond a new insert with the proper 3/8-16 thread pitch. It worked out well, and should tie everything together once I've got the console back in place with the black leather shift boot.

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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    15. #55
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      I ordered this leather shift boot from Red Line for $22. I was shacked at the quality of the Napa leather....and it perfectly matches the leather on my steering wheel.

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      I used the retaining ring to mark the holes, then used the punch included in this grommet kit I bought off Amazon for $11. I then installed the grommets so that I wouldn't have to worry about the holes tearing with use.

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      It installed as planned with no issues under the stock ring but on top of the factory rubber boot. I think it does a good job of cleaning up the center console in the car. I always hated the look of the rubber boot poking through.

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      I was really hoping to get the entire center console buttoned up today, but when I went to install the replacement arm rest, I realized what an absolute piece of crap the aftermarket piece is. Its not square, and doesn't fit properly, so I decided to do what I should have done in the first place, and just take the original to the upholstery place that did my seats, and have them recover it in white leather.

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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    16. #56
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Well, I've been hugely delinquent in updating this thread, but the good news is, I've also made big progress in that time...

      Since I had to pull the old rusted exhaust off for the rear end rebuild, I decided to bite the bullet and do it right. I went with Stainless Works long tube headers, fabricated mid pipes, and Corvette Central's rear exhaust kit with Magna Flow mufflers. I also used the slightly bigger tips off the '68-'69 C3.

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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    17. #57
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      I also got the rear end back from Gary and installed. Its a 1979 case, with an NOS Eaton posi carrier and 3.73 gears. I found it easier to bolt everything together, and then inch it forward from the rear of the car as a unit. You can also see in the pics that I cleaned up the rear crossmember and installed new "sombrero" bushings and the Van Steel reinforcing kit.

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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    18. #58
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      I also finalized the seat mounting in the car. I ended up removing the factory arm rests from the door cards as well. They are kind of cheesy, aren't functional as arm rests, and really just encroached on my hip/leg room. So I went on Etsy (of all places) and found a girl that makes leather pulls for cabinets and ordered two in the size I needed in navy blue leather. I also ordered a spray can of interior dye that matched my interior color code, knowing that the shade of the leather was likely not going to match. I hit the door pulls with two coats of dye, and bolted them in. I think they look perfect, and are just as functional without taking up as much space.

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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    19. #59
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      And that brings me to where the car is now. After some issues with the brakes that required a change to a 1.0" bore master cylinder, the car is finally on the road. The brakes have been bed in, the alignment is done, and I'm half way through the 500 mile break in period on the diff. I still have a few projects to get to, but at this point, I'm calling stage one of this build complete. The plan is to drive it, beat on it, and expose any weak points or issues over the course of this spring and summer. After the holidays next year, Ill put it back up on the list for the second part of the build which will include a full rewire along with fuel injection and a few other bits. More to come....

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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    20. #60
      Join Date
      May 2012
      Location
      Kansas City, Missouri
      Posts
      665
      Country Flag: United States
      Love the car and the white letter tires look great

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