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    Page 9 of 9 FirstFirst ... 4 5 6 7 8 9
    Results 161 to 168 of 168
    1. #161
      Join Date
      Nov 2019
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      11
      Country Flag: United States
      Curious how that Lokar handle works for you. I was looking at that myself.



    2. #162
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      141
      Got a little done this week. Its been a rough spring for us, so Im glad to be back on the truck.

      First things first- I weighed the truck. and Ill post a picture of it in the process. It weighs 3887 lbs total, with 2105 on the front tires and 1782 on the rear. I wasnt expecting that, but it is a cast block/heads, with the cast bellhousing, and the NP435. I swear that thing alone weighs 1000 lbs. Plus its an old steel truck, so it should be a little portly. Anyway, tell me if that seems off. I only had two scales, so I cheated. I weighed the front and back separate, but the truck was level each time, making the tires that werent on the scales up in the air. This seems right to me, but if it wont work, tell me and we can discuss it.

      I went to re-weld a few holes in the radiator hoses, and they blew out, so I made another one. Plus I welded a bung in the upper for the fan temp sensor. Its as close to the thermostat as I could get, without buying an expensive billet water neck, which wouldnt look right. Also, I laid the heater lines in place. They will get flared and AN fittings on the firewall side. Should look pretty good I think. When we change engines later (I hope), we will just rebuild the lines from the firewall.

      I also got the tire stands made. I hope to get more done later and tomorrow. I decided to post a few pictures, because I havent in awhile. But google is being a little jerk, so I have had to re-learn how to post pictures. So, I hope this works.

      Well, the upload button is acting up again, so I can only load 3 pictures. Ill try again later. I just tried it like 50 times, and it wont let me upload.
      Attached Images Attached Images      

    3. #163
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      319
      Country Flag: United States
      That weight balance doesn't seem too bad off, trucks tend to be front heavy. Yours is slightly worse than my 2003 Dakota was, stock. Your weight split is 54/46 front/back, for reference mine is 52/48 although mine weighed 4000lbs exactly. If you want it to be 50/50, you just need to find a way to either drop 323lbs from the front, or move 162lbs from the front to the rear. A fiberglass hood can drop 50lbs off the front by itself, and an aluminum engine block and heads might be worth more than 100lbs. Replacing that heavy steel wrapping the engine with fiberglass or plastic would probably be worth another 30lbs. If you can set the engine and radiator back an inch, that would reduce the amount of weight you have to worry about shifting.

    4. #164
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      141
      Thanks. I was thinking it was heavy, but after doing some searching, it isnt too bad for an old truck. I plan on replacing the transmission and bellhousing along with the engine. Those things are heavy. That will shed some weight. Im not too worried about a 50/50 split. Its nice to know its not that far off.

    5. #165
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,270
      Country Flag: United States
      According to another forum, the trans weights 125 lbs. dry. A member had one shipped and that was the weight on it. Your total weight is correct with all I remember about that era of trucks.

    6. #166
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      141
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      According to another forum, the trans weights 125 lbs. dry. A member had one shipped and that was the weight on it. Your total weight is correct with all I remember about that era of trucks.
      And the cast iron bellhousing is probably close to 80 lbs. Cast block/heads...Its about right according to what I have seen on other forums.

      Worked on the heater today. Bent and flared the lines, installed the heater, and started looking at the engine side of heater. I dont like the way it looks right now. The line will stay the same basic shape, but I just ordered some line separators, and clamps. I also got some of the blue line (like the oil line, but -10) and some weld on tabs for mounts. A few more odds and ends too. Ill finish the heater lines, then start working on securing the battery cables and finish the radiator hoses in the next couple of days hopefully, and then we can try to start it again.

      I sent my information to QA1 for advice on coil overs. They should get back to me this week, and Ill order the shocks.

      I know the wiring is a mess right now. I installed it before I realized we had to swap frames. It really is bugging me. Plus I have some issues to sort out, like blinkers and the horn, and a bunch of things to add- wipers, heater, interior lights, mirror blinkers, courtesy lights, electric fan, maybe a few more things by the time I get there. Ignore the wiring. Im trying really hard not to yank it all out and start over. I do wiring for a living, and this drives me crazy.
      Attached Images Attached Images      

    7. #167
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      141
      No pictures yet, but I hit a milestone Ive been working toward for awhile. I called QA1, and had them work me through shock and spring selection. Ill post pictures when I have them, but here is what I got--

      The truck is 3887 lbs. 2105 lbs in the front, and 1782 lbs in the rear. I have a Mustang II front IFS and a triangulated 4 link. He suggested the following:

      DS404 front shocks, for a height of about 13" eye to eye, and 10HT550 springs, that have a 550 lb rating. These shocks have about 4" travel I believe. They are single adjustable and I can adjust ride height.

      DS502 rear shocks, for a ride height of 14" eye to eye. I am in the top hole of the 4-link, so I have two lower holes. This should work well. The rear springs are 12HT-250, and have a 250 lb rating. They have 5" travel.

      He also suggested the thrust bearing/wrench kit (7888-110) and two additional thrust bearings (7888-109), as well as bushings for the rear shocks (9035-143) and 4 c-clips (9007-102).

      This will set up the truck with a softer ride, as we are in the lower spring range. He said if I hated it, we can bump it up with the springs. The computer suggested 575 lbs up front, and they only make 550 and 600. It also suggested 247 lb in the rear, and they make a 200, a 250 and 300. We will see how it feels.
      Total cost with shipping and tax was around $1200.

    8. #168
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,270
      Country Flag: United States
      That sounds good to me.

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