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    Page 9 of 11 FirstFirst ... 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 LastLast
    Results 161 to 180 of 210
    1. #161
      Join Date
      Nov 2019
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      17
      Country Flag: United States
      Curious how that Lokar handle works for you. I was looking at that myself.

    2. #162
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Got a little done this week. Its been a rough spring for us, so Im glad to be back on the truck.

      First things first- I weighed the truck. and Ill post a picture of it in the process. It weighs 3887 lbs total, with 2105 on the front tires and 1782 on the rear. I wasnt expecting that, but it is a cast block/heads, with the cast bellhousing, and the NP435. I swear that thing alone weighs 1000 lbs. Plus its an old steel truck, so it should be a little portly. Anyway, tell me if that seems off. I only had two scales, so I cheated. I weighed the front and back separate, but the truck was level each time, making the tires that werent on the scales up in the air. This seems right to me, but if it wont work, tell me and we can discuss it.

      I went to re-weld a few holes in the radiator hoses, and they blew out, so I made another one. Plus I welded a bung in the upper for the fan temp sensor. Its as close to the thermostat as I could get, without buying an expensive billet water neck, which wouldnt look right. Also, I laid the heater lines in place. They will get flared and AN fittings on the firewall side. Should look pretty good I think. When we change engines later (I hope), we will just rebuild the lines from the firewall.

      I also got the tire stands made. I hope to get more done later and tomorrow. I decided to post a few pictures, because I havent in awhile. But google is being a little jerk, so I have had to re-learn how to post pictures. So, I hope this works.

      Well, the upload button is acting up again, so I can only load 3 pictures. Ill try again later. I just tried it like 50 times, and it wont let me upload.
      Attached Images Attached Images      

    3. #163
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      That weight balance doesn't seem too bad off, trucks tend to be front heavy. Yours is slightly worse than my 2003 Dakota was, stock. Your weight split is 54/46 front/back, for reference mine is 52/48 although mine weighed 4000lbs exactly. If you want it to be 50/50, you just need to find a way to either drop 323lbs from the front, or move 162lbs from the front to the rear. A fiberglass hood can drop 50lbs off the front by itself, and an aluminum engine block and heads might be worth more than 100lbs. Replacing that heavy steel wrapping the engine with fiberglass or plastic would probably be worth another 30lbs. If you can set the engine and radiator back an inch, that would reduce the amount of weight you have to worry about shifting.

    4. #164
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Thanks. I was thinking it was heavy, but after doing some searching, it isnt too bad for an old truck. I plan on replacing the transmission and bellhousing along with the engine. Those things are heavy. That will shed some weight. Im not too worried about a 50/50 split. Its nice to know its not that far off.

    5. #165
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,289
      Country Flag: United States
      According to another forum, the trans weights 125 lbs. dry. A member had one shipped and that was the weight on it. Your total weight is correct with all I remember about that era of trucks.

    6. #166
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      According to another forum, the trans weights 125 lbs. dry. A member had one shipped and that was the weight on it. Your total weight is correct with all I remember about that era of trucks.
      And the cast iron bellhousing is probably close to 80 lbs. Cast block/heads...Its about right according to what I have seen on other forums.

      Worked on the heater today. Bent and flared the lines, installed the heater, and started looking at the engine side of heater. I dont like the way it looks right now. The line will stay the same basic shape, but I just ordered some line separators, and clamps. I also got some of the blue line (like the oil line, but -10) and some weld on tabs for mounts. A few more odds and ends too. Ill finish the heater lines, then start working on securing the battery cables and finish the radiator hoses in the next couple of days hopefully, and then we can try to start it again.

      I sent my information to QA1 for advice on coil overs. They should get back to me this week, and Ill order the shocks.

      I know the wiring is a mess right now. I installed it before I realized we had to swap frames. It really is bugging me. Plus I have some issues to sort out, like blinkers and the horn, and a bunch of things to add- wipers, heater, interior lights, mirror blinkers, courtesy lights, electric fan, maybe a few more things by the time I get there. Ignore the wiring. Im trying really hard not to yank it all out and start over. I do wiring for a living, and this drives me crazy.
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    7. #167
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      No pictures yet, but I hit a milestone Ive been working toward for awhile. I called QA1, and had them work me through shock and spring selection. Ill post pictures when I have them, but here is what I got--

      The truck is 3887 lbs. 2105 lbs in the front, and 1782 lbs in the rear. I have a Mustang II front IFS and a triangulated 4 link. He suggested the following:

      DS404 front shocks, for a height of about 13" eye to eye, and 10HT550 springs, that have a 550 lb rating. These shocks have about 4" travel I believe. They are single adjustable and I can adjust ride height.

      DS502 rear shocks, for a ride height of 14" eye to eye. I am in the top hole of the 4-link, so I have two lower holes. This should work well. The rear springs are 12HT-250, and have a 250 lb rating. They have 5" travel.

      He also suggested the thrust bearing/wrench kit (7888-110) and two additional thrust bearings (7888-109), as well as bushings for the rear shocks (9035-143) and 4 c-clips (9007-102).

      This will set up the truck with a softer ride, as we are in the lower spring range. He said if I hated it, we can bump it up with the springs. The computer suggested 575 lbs up front, and they only make 550 and 600. It also suggested 247 lb in the rear, and they make a 200, a 250 and 300. We will see how it feels.
      Total cost with shipping and tax was around $1200.

    8. #168
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,289
      Country Flag: United States
      That sounds good to me.

    9. #169
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Ive been working on coolant hoses. I have tried two or three times to make them air tight. Im just not good enough with a welder to make really nice beads, so I grind them, and they leak. Im going to check them one more time, and if they leak Im going to have to do something else. I made a little bracket to support the metal hose, but Im not sure if I like it or if it will work. Its all part of the process, I guess.

      I got a few orders in this week. I got the shocks and springs, and some AN lines and hose for the heater, plus some weld on tabs just in case I need more.

      The goal has been to start the truck ASAP. With me having trouble with the coolant lines, it just keeps getting pushed back, and now we have a gas shortage down here, so who knows when Ill get to start the truck. I talked to Dave a painter friend of mine, and we discussed painting the dash. It needs some work still, but he is going to show me what needs to be done, and Im going to learn how to do it. Ill let him paint it. Itll be motivating to see the color on the dash. I should be able to get it out in an hour or two. We plan on trying to get the dash fixed and painted inside a few weeks, and I can put it in for good. With it out, Ill attack the wiring and straighten it up. If I find some gas, and get the coolant lines working, I can start the truck without the dash if needed.


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    10. #170
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,289
      Country Flag: United States
      I would tell you to send me the coolant line and I'd weld it for you but there is someone closer than me, I would guess.

    11. #171
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      I would tell you to send me the coolant line and I'd weld it for you but there is someone closer than me, I would guess.
      Thank you. Im sure you are right. I need to get better, but Im anxious to get it going too. Ill figure something out. I might take a welding course. Im not sure.


      So I ran into a bit of a major problem. I got the shocks in, and went to mount them, after giving up on trying to start the truck. There are issues in the front and rear.

      The front- the springs are too big. I think I mentioned these frames are too wide for this crossmember. The junk chinese shocks they send with the kit almost hit the frame. The QA1s do hit it. Plus its practically impossible to get the shock in place. Ill post pictures, but it seems the frame sticks out too much to allow the shock and spring to clear it. I see 3 solutions: (1) c-notch the frame. I see this as a no-go. I dont like this idea at all. (2) move the lower shock mount. This probably wouldnt help much, especially as the suspension compresses and the spring comes inboard. Plus the shock would lean more, making it less effective and it would change the suspension geometry. I say this wont work either. (3). Extend the upper mounts. This is probably what Ill do. Currently the shock is leaned in at about 8 degrees, and according to QA1, anything under 10 is nominal. By moving the upper mount out, itll make the shock stand more upright. Plus with this being where the issue is, a half inch move gains me a half inch. The biggest problem I see with this is the shock is close to impossible to install now. Making the upper longer will make it worse, so Ill probably have to change the lower A-arm a bit also. Once you see the pictures, it should make sense. They have bars in them to allow for airbags.

      The rear- Sort of the same issue. I dont know what I was thinking when I welded the upper tabs on, but the shock will hit the rearend too. The shock has to be spaced away from the axle tube. The shock needs to sit almost exactly where the aft tab is, so Ill have to get 4 more tabs and move them. It sucks but it isnt a huge deal. The good news is, this will allow me to get those tabs lower, which will eliminate the problem of the bed interfering. I expected this might be an issue.

      I hope to get some parts on order this weekend and get to fixing these problems.

      1st picture- No room for the spacer that is required to space the shock away from the axle tube. Im an idiot. I was afraid this would happen.
      2nd picture-Shows the lower a-arm, and the two bars that make installing the shock so difficult. If I move the upper, itll be impossible.
      3rd picture-The spring hits the frame, and the lower still needs another inch. I think moving the upper out about 1/2" will fix it. This is full droop.
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    12. #172
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      It would be some work and only you can decide if it would be worthwhile, but perhaps a cantilever coilover setup in there? Looks like you'd just need a small diameter straight bar from the lower A arm up, much like you have now, but you'd need to add a bell crank mounted to the frame where the upper shock mount is. Done right, you could lay the coilovers sideways along the frame either to the front or the back. A lot of off-roaders use this sort of setup to keep their shocks out of harm's way and they go jumping over hills at a hundred miles an hour, so it ought to be plenty strong enough.

      If it sounds interesting, ask people other than me how to best go about it, because I don't know enough about it to offer advice beyond it looks like a possible (but not necessarily a good) solution.



    13. #173
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      I would love a cantilever setup. I have often dreamed about a cantilever, with adjustable rods on one end. Talk about quick ride height adjustments...But I think it would be a little over board for this truck. I wish I knew then (when I started) what I know know. I watch a few guys on Youtube who are making their own frames. Just some 2 x 3 box rails, and some welder series corners, and you can make some very nice stuff. Im getting much better with my welding on the thick stuff, its the thin and odd position stuff Im struggling with. Maybe some day.

      I think if I tried that it would be too much. I have some things I want to fix on the frame, and Ill get there, but it is not of the quality to use a cantilever setup.

    14. #174
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      I removed the bed again, and started making plans to fix these issues. Ill make an order for parts tonight, and hopefully will get some things done this week. I have to stop rushing myself for some made up appointment. I need to fix these things as they come up. So, I wont put the bed back, until its completely ready to go back. I have a few other issues I was putting off until later. Well, its later. I went crazy cleaning the garage also, because the bed is staying inside this time. I hope to have the problems fixed and back together soon.

      The parts to fix it wont cost over $150. And the time to fix the rear end might be a full day. I just hate making these dumb mistakes. The front will be harder. While Im in there, Im going to fix the upper a-arms also.


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    15. #175
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      No work on the truck this week. Im waiting on parts, and planning a little bit. Im also doing the laundry room for my wife. While im in there Im adding a 220v switch for the welder/dryer. Instead of unplugging the dryer and plugging in the welder every time I need it, Ill be able to flip a switch. Ill post pictures when Im done, but it should be pretty nice.

      I also went to a car show that happens weekly around here, and met a guy with a white and purple 71 or 72 D100, with a 440 (I think its a bored and stroked 440, but I dont remember how big he said it was), and his bed was in pretty good shape, so I struck up a conversation and took a picture or two. I have to figure out how to repair the bed on Isaacs truck eventually, and it was good to see how its supposed to look. Isaacs bed has been butchered.

      Things I need to do to Isaacs truck still;
      1) fix the shock mounts (waiting on parts)
      2) Radiator and coolant lines (I broke down and ordered another radiator with the hookups on opposite sides). It will be easier. I ordered aluminum tubing, which Ill bend at work. The radiator I have now will work on the Ford, so its not a complete waste.
      3) I will probably lower the tow hitch. It will be behind the bumper right now, so it needs to be a little lower. I havent figured out how yet.
      4) Im seriously looking at relocating the battery....again. My problem is I watch car show videos and see all these great ways to mount this stuff. Its not really in a good spot, although its better than it was. I just dont want to buy more cables.
      5) Im sure Ill find something else to "fix". Like I said previously, Im trying to stop rushing, and saying :Ill get to that later". I have the bed off, I want to fix it all while Im here. I might work on the frame clean up. The frame will be visible until I fix the bed, so it needs to look better.

    16. #176
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      I havent really worked on the truck this week. Ive been re-doing a laundry room. Again, what I thought would be 3 days, and $250, winds up taking 7 days, and over $500. Its always something, and when you tear into a wall, you never know what you will find. Anyway, happy wife-happy life.

      I have been considering a few things, and getting parts together. Ill just ramble for a minute, and Ill post pictures starting next week.

      1) I managed to find time to drill and tap the intake for the electric fan temp sensor. I have a few concerns-one it is probably a grounding switch, which will ground at a certain temperature (it only has one wire terminal in it) . I installed it with thread tape, so it might not work right. The second issue is it is supposed to be a 3/8-18 NPT, so I ordered a tap set that came with the drill bit and tap. I drilled it and tapped it, and it just didnt seem to tighten in a way that inspires confidence in a good seal. We will see. If it leaks, I guess Ill step back a punt again.

      2) I think I have to install a step c-notch. Ill take a picture of this soon, but the new rear shock mounts need to be mounted in a way that the QA1 shock is about 14" installed. Thats where it is now, with the old mounts, but on the lowest hole in the bottom bracket. I want to be able to really lower this thing if needed. The new mount has a hole thats about an inch lower, that makes the problem worse. Plus I have almost 4" between the axle tube and the frame. Lowering it will make that worse. I know a notch guarantees I have to raise the bed floor or install a hump, but Im okay with that. Plus with a step notch, I can mount the upper shock mount on the notch, and use one of the higher holes on the lower mount.

      3) Im also lowering the trailer hitch. The current location is behind the bumper a little. I could probably fix it with a drop hitch, but all the bars are coming out anyway, because of #2) above, the notch. This will give me an opportunity to fix a few other things.

      4) Im really looking into the front mounts. I bought new shock mounts, and they look good, and I thought I had a plan. The more I look at it, the more I wonder if I should do something else. Im just not sure. This is what happens when you spend so much time looking at build threads and watching build videos. (Ill post pictures of this dilemma later.)

      1st picture- How the truck sits now, with the mounts where I originally put them. I think I want the back a little lower, and might lower the whole truck on special occasions.
      2nd picture-Where the new upper needs to be at a minimum. I would like it higher, to allow the lower mount to be moved to the second hole for more adjustment options.
      3rd picture-Another shot of the upper but this shows the lower also, where the shock is in the lowest hole. A c-notch will allow me to mount the bracket much higher.
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    17. #177
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      A couple of hours of grinding and the back is out. I finished the laundry room about 1 o-clock today, and went to the garage to start the modifications. I cut all the old supports and the tow hitch off, and laid out a c-notch. The upper shock mount in the position shown will give me about 15" bolt center to bolt center for the rear shock, in the middle hole on the lower mount, which is what I was looking for. It also gives me about 7" maximum clearance between the frame and the axle tube. The bad news is, this will raise the bed floor by about 3" in this area. Im going to start with a center hump, but Ill probably raise the entire floor.
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    18. #178
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,289
      Country Flag: United States
      Raising the complete bed floor now would be my choice. You might consider removing the floor and getting ride height and suspension travel where you want it and then deal with the floor.

    19. #179
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      Raising the complete bed floor now would be my choice. You might consider removing the floor and getting ride height and suspension travel where you want it and then deal with the floor.

      Thats the plan. The bed floor is rotted out now anyway. Ill finish this, get the truck on the road, then Ill cover the bed floor with some plywood, but that will be temporary. Then I plan on raising the whole bed floor and widening the wheel tubs.

    20. #180
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Got started on the c-notch. I cut all the main pieces yesterday, and made them match. I tacked them on today, and added the square bars in the pictures. These are sort of temporary. Ill use them to hold it all together until I get the top side welded together. Ill weld the notches on the frame, then cut the bars out and move them down, then Ill cut the notch out of the frame. The square bars will tie the sides together. They are about .100 to.120 wall 1x1, so they will be nice, and itll give me a flat top on the notch. I might not have enough of the 3/16 to finish the notches, so I may have to get more. I also need some 2x3 .120 wall box beam to lower the hitch. Im on overtime at work now, so itll be slow for awhile.
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