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    Page 8 of 10 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 LastLast
    Results 141 to 160 of 186
    1. #141
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      351
      Country Flag: United States
      On those hoses, make sure there's enough room for engine mount flex. The engine will move, the radiator will not, and very short pieces will eventually just tear. That's part of why factory hoses have the large bends in them, it gives plenty of wiggle room for the engine without transferring any of the wiggle stress to the rigidly fixed, thin metal radiator.



      If you don't like the blue, an alternative would be a stainless mesh sheath to put over them.


    2. #142
      Join Date
      Nov 2019
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      13
      Country Flag: United States
      I've got a 67 short bed NP435 D100. The driveshaft is out right now so I can snap a pic or 2 if you'd like.
      -Ed

    3. #143
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      155
      Quote Originally Posted by Vimes View Post
      On those hoses, make sure there's enough room for engine mount flex. The engine will move, the radiator will not, and very short pieces will eventually just tear. That's part of why factory hoses have the large bends in them, it gives plenty of wiggle room for the engine without transferring any of the wiggle stress to the rigidly fixed, thin metal radiator.

      If you don't like the blue, an alternative would be a stainless mesh sheath to put over them.
      Good advice. I sort of knew that, in practice, but this is a different game for me. I work in aviation, and we sometimes replace lines. The metal lines must also be bent in a way to allow for expansion and contraction. It not for movement of engine, but temperature and pressure changes that make the lines grow or shrink. I will keep the rubber splices long and hope that will work.

      Im not sure this truck would look right with shiny mesh style hoses either. Plus Im hoping to changes engines in the future, so all the connections to the engine will be changing.

      Dodge383fi
      I've got a 67 short bed NP435 D100. The driveshaft is out right now so I can snap a pic or 2 if you'd like.
      -Ed

      That might help a little. I have seen them before on websites, but I want to check with the driveshaft shop to see if they have one, or if they have another way of doing it. Im not even sure we will keep this transmission. A T56 is pricey so thats why we are trying to stick with this one, but it has the very high granny first gear too, so its essentially a 3 speed.

    4. #144
      Join Date
      Nov 2019
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      13
      Country Flag: United States
      The back end is just a universal, the front looks like it slides. Well it would if it wasn't so gunked up.
      Where are you located? If you're in SoCal and you want to pick it up you can have mine cheap.
      Name:  IMG_20210307_130237139.jpg
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    5. #145
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      155
      That looks right. I am in Tennessee. For the right price I would pay for shipping too. Ill send a PM. It should work with some clean up. Are you not putting it back in?

    6. #146
      Join Date
      Nov 2019
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      13
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by drummerdad View Post
      That looks right. I am in Tennessee. For the right price I would pay for shipping too. Ill send a PM. It should work with some clean up. Are you not putting it back in?
      I replied to your pm.
      In Ca. a stick is kind of a pain in traffic plus I have some leg issues so I swapped to a 700-R4 so that Ujoint needs to change, and my new diff. center uses a 1350 so that end needs to changes. Easier and better to go a whole new shaft.
      -Ed

    7. #147
      Join Date
      Nov 2019
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      13
      Country Flag: United States
      Just curious, are my pm's going thru?

    8. #148
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      155
      Yes, the PMs are going through. I got them. Thanks.

      Im not sure the driveshaft will stay to be honest, but I still need one. The 4 speed has a very high granny 1st (a 6.68:1 I think), so its useless and basically a 3 speed. Plus its a truck shifter. A T56 would be nice, but they are expensive. I can get a divorced splitter, but it would keep the clunky transmission and shifter. Both options would need another driveshaft.

    9. #149
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      155
      Got the tubing in so I started the radiator hoses. Top is 1-1/2:, bottom is 1-3/4". Top was easy, I just cut it to length. The bottom was a challenge. I got it, and everything is nice and neat, I think. Again, I wont be using the blue, I just havent got the black rubber hoses yet. I also made a small support bracket for the bottom tube. Ill bolt it in this weekend, hopefully. I think its in one of the pictures but its hard to see. Ill take them to work Monday and roll the bead in them. Ill also clean up the tubing a bit and powder coat them to match the valve covers and air cleaner.

      Im not really sure if the top tube needs a support. It stays okay now, but it will be full of coolant. It will also have clamps. If I decide to make a support, I have no idea where to put it. More to come tomorrow.
      Attached Images Attached Images      

    10. #150
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,283
      Country Flag: United States
      My lower hose on my 51 is the reverse of yours but the same idea. That's a better idea than a real long flex hose IMHO.

    11. #151
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      155
      I guess I lied, unintentionally. I said I would post more today, but my wife got a notification last night that we had a deposit hit the bank. She checked and we got the stimulus check. I didnt ask for it, and I think its a horrible idea, but its there, so we are going to use it. I have been putting off some jobs around the house for awhile so we decided to get some things started. This summer Im going to be very busy.

      On the truck side of things, Ill be ordering the shocks soon, I hope. I should have some parts come in this week, and Ill finish the coolant lines up. Ill try and start it next weekend, if everything goes well. Once its together, Ill weigh it and order the shocks. Hope to be driving it by summer, but I know how things can bite me too, so Im not holding my breath.

      Plus if the weather will break, Im going to attempt to adjust the shifter linkage on the F100. If all goes well I might be driving them both this year.

    12. #152
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      219
      Don't feel bad about not "needing" that check. By spending it, you are stimulating the economy...which is pretty much the point for people as fortunate as you are, in this moment.

      I any case, I glad it will allow you to take care of some delayed projects!

    13. #153
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      155
      Wont be able to do much for the next few days. Our pilot at work brought in Covid, and so far 5 of us have tested positive. Im quarantined for the next 7-10 days. Ill be working on the house mostly, getting that bathroom finished.

    14. #154
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Posts
      5
      Been following over on the Sweptline.org forum, also been thinking about a IFS for my truck now after I just spend a ton of money getting new lowered springs, 4x4 pitman arm, link pins rebuilt, disc brakes etc. the list goes on and on. It diffidently drives like a super BIG truck, the lock to lock turning radius is hideous and has a stiff ride... I don't have the money for a Geist, so was looking at either a Fatman or Jimmys but after reading about your problems I'm rethinking my opinions for sure.

    15. #155
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      155
      I would stay away from the Helix stuff for sure. The problem is you dont know when its a helix or not, because they have such a bad reputation they dont put their name on anything. I bought mine from a sweptline specialist, or so I thought. I guess the rule of thumb would be, if it isnt manufactured by the place you are buying it from, IE fatman, roadster shop, a few other shops....its probably a helix kit. Another rule is, if it isnt $3k or more, stay away. The low price draws people in (it did me) and you dont think about it. I did reinforce the crossmember, and I have extended the tie rods. My plan is to replace the a-arms eventually, but all these things add to the low cost. I still dont have $4k for the nice products, so if I had it to do all over, I would probably get a crown vic, and use one of the narrow crossmembers. I also have a 67 ford f100 that will eventually wind up getting worked on. I might do the CV on it.

    16. #156
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      155
      Finally feel 100%. Had a rough 2 weeks. The Covid-19 virus ran through work and got probably 15 out of 25 people. Several had to go to the emergency room, one is still in ICU on a vent.

      Havent worked on the truck at all. I didnt feel like it, and we started a bathroom remodel and I promised I would finish it before starting back on the truck. Plus work picked up while we were all out sick, so we all came back behind schedule, and are working overtime. Thats not a complaint. I spent most of 2020 working 36 hour weeks. Im glad to be back to normal. Plus our internet went out in the middle of quarantine, and they said it was in the house and they couldnt come in, because we were in quarantine...so we went without internet for the last 2 weeks, with 2 kids in online college courses and one being homeschooled. Good times.

      Ill finish the bathroom tomorrow, and start on the truck next week. I should be really close to starting it. I have to finish the radiator installation, Ill be weighing the truck as soon as I get it started so I can get the shocks and springs. I hope to get the truck driving this summer.

    17. #157
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      155
      I am at a point I am ordering the last few items I can think of and getting everything here, in an attempt to get Isaacs truck on the road buy the end of summer. It might not be totally road worthy, but if it drives under its own power around the neighborhood, Ill count it as a success. I still have a lot of work to do, but Im getting close.

      One issue I have is the parking brake. I have the two e-brake cables for the original rearend, and I installed them when I did the brakes. The cable are ran to the bracket that is right behind the driver. I also have a handle for the brake that came from the parts truck, but all 3 mounting holes were rusted through. The handle basically fell out in my hand. The forward cable is from the parts truck, which is a long bed, Isaacs truck is a short bed. So Im faced with the problem of installing a parking brake. Here are my options, tell me what you think, or what you did on your car or truck. I have to have the park brake, because its a 4 speed.

      1) E-brake. At almost $600 its the most expensive. I like the idea, but Im worried the force will hurt the rear cables or the parts inside the drums. I read somewhere that it applies about 700 lbs of force. But, if I hide the button, it acts as another anti-theft.
      2) Aftermarket universal e-brake. About $350-400. The handles look nice, and its universal, so I can mount it many ways, and in several locations. Plus I can regulate the force on the brakes and cables and not kill any hard to find parts, while still applying enough force to keep the truck in place.
      3) Fix the original. It would be more work, I would have to make repair panels, with nuts welded in place. I would also have to buy another front cable for a short bed truck. My biggest issue with this is, if I get to install the 5.7 hemi later, it might not fit. Plus I made no plans to run the cable, so it might interfere with something I have already installed.

    18. #158
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,283
      Country Flag: United States
      Another option is a modern e-brake caliper. I have a pair that fit late model Ford Fusions, Lincoln Mkc's and others in that size category. There are others out there. I was going to replace the stock calipers on an 8.8 rear. The e-brake will be operated by a double pole double throw toggle switch. One direction applies the brake. The other direction releases it. I bought the calipers on ebay for less than $50 each.

    19. #159
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      155
      I have rear drums for now. I guess thats another point to consider, because eventually I would like to go to rear discs.

    20. #160
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      155
      So, thursday I decided to finish the bathroom real quick, to get it out of the way, and get back on the truck. I have a few parts coming in and wanted to be able to start. And...I shot a nail straight through the toilet supply line, causing a waterfall of water to pour out of the garage ceiling, right down the windshield of Isaacs truck. Luckily, I know how to fix things, mainly because I am always breaking them, so I got that fixed pretty quick. But I had to rip part of the newly painted wall out to replace the line. Oh well. At least I am blessed with the money to buy these things, and the skills and ability to do the repairs. Had I called a plumber, it would have been very expensive.

      So, the good news is, I finally got the steering wheel adapter, and my shift knob. Bad news is, a screw broke off in the adapter, so Ill have to go to work and extract it. Shift knob looks great. I am working on the heater lines also. No pictures, but I should be getting back in the normal routine soon.

      I think Im going to buy the Lokar universal parking brake system with the black handle for the truck. It should work well, and if I change the truck later, it is adaptable.

      Also, I found 3 of the 4 hinges from the parts truck, and two of them are in great shape. So the sagging hinge is going away.

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