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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    sw Kansas
    Posts
    1,198
    Country Flag: United States
    Here it is: https://youtu.be/AnSluK-klLM 2 minute short version
    Long version: https://youtu.be/3pwMKzIkX4Q
    I put braces on the strut arm brackets that isn't shown in the video. They run lengthwise on the bracket to the frame. I found out that welding the front and rear of the brackets wasn't strong enough.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    Got a little work done. I finished painting the front end of the frame. I started the brake lines. I also installed the suspension hopefully for the last time. It has the setup sticks in it still, but its on its own weight. The bolt centers are at 12-1/2" apart. I might have to get the shocks that are about 13-1/2". They will be adjustable, so I can lower it if necessary. I also set the engine in so I can set my pinion angle. I also need it in to get a few details figured out. I still need exhaust ran, the fuel and clutch line, the radiator and heater and associated hoses and stuff. Tons to figure out.

    I still have a few problems to fix. The tie rod ends are installed, and I have about 1/2" or about 10 threads left inside the bar. And the tires are still toed in a bit. Im not sure I feel safe running it out much more. I have a plan to fix this, and its a hassle, but not a huge problem.

    The other main problem is the adjustable ends on the upper A-arms. They have about 3/4" of thread in the arm, so I could go out a little more. And of course, the tires are visually cambered. This is a tougher fix. Not impossible, but much harder. The goal for now is to make the truck move under its own power this year. Itll still need shocks and tires, and a ton of other things, but I think I can do this this year.

    Try not to nitpick...Its in progress. I know I need some grommets, and clamps on the brake lines. Some cotter pins in some of the suspension parts. And I need to lock tight all the bolts. Ill get it all.
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  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Jefferson City, MO
    Posts
    160
    Any progress is good progress!

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    Slowly getting there. I got it out today and washed it for the first time in about 2 years. Im slowly getting the brakes figured out. Its a nightmare. With the IFS, and the brake booster, and a new combination valve, and all the little parts, and various adapters and fittings....Im ready to get these things done. Im also working out details on the fuel lines, the clutch, the oil lines (Im running a remote filter) the rear 4-link, and about a hundred other areas on the truck. Ive made probably 20 trip to either the parts store or the hardware store in the last 2 weeks. And its $20 here, $50 there. But its slowly coming together. I have more photos, but either my drive or my phone isnt cooperating today, so I might post them tomorrow after church.
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  5. #65
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    Here are the other pictures. Earlier than I expected, but thats ok. I wanted to post about an issue...

    If you pay attention you will notice Im running wheel spacers. That was a last minute fix to get those ugly ford ranger wheels off the truck. I bought wheels for my car, and donated these to Isaac, so they are factory 20" Dodge Charger RT (with the road and track package) wheels. I think they are about 7" wide. The spindle hits the wheel in the front, which is going to be an issue on most new wheels. Also the offset is way wrong front and back. With a 1-1/2" spacer up front the wheels are still tucked in the fender pretty good. Im also running a 2" spacer in the back to make the rear track wider than the front. I hate the spacers. They look dumb, and Im not convinced they arent a safety issue. I know some 4X4 guys use them for mud races and rock crawling, but they use them as a failure point, because they are cheaper than axles. Its just something else Ill have to address eventually. I also want to point out the wheel studs are too short. This is a rather big issue. I can get longer studs, and make the spacers work, but they are also short on the rear axles. And when I get different wheels later any long stud I put on now, will be too long then. Also the wheels we would really want are the Dodge Hellcat wheels, which have a similar offset, just in a wider tire. I need the mounting surface of the wheels to be more toward the center of the truck. And custom wheels are outside the budget for sure. At $900-1500 a wheel I dont see that ever happening.

    Anyway, just another issue that Ill have to address eventually. Its a never ending saga of problems followed by several ways to fix them. I just have to find the one that fits the best.
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  6. #66
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    524
    Country Flag: United States
    I'm so freakin happy to see that you aren't going to keep those spacers. So many people seem to take that as the easy way out and it's just so wrong in so many ways. That's the part of building custom stuff like this that so many don't think about...everything is affected and it's exhausting trying to think ahead of these types of issues.



    Truck is looking good and coming together. Keep it up!
    '95 F-150 track ready street beast
    Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram


  7. #67
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    Thanks for all the kind comments. Im definitely learning. There are hundreds of little things to figure out. Im going to have to run the spacers for awhile, but they will be going away when I can get rid of them. The problem with it is, Ill need the wheels, and the a-arms, and the spindles and the brakes all at the same time to do that. That change alone will be more than I have in the truck now, so it will double the cost almost.

    Anyway, I got a little done. I lost a week because I was helping a friend. Plus we payed off a bill, so Im done buying parts this month. But with the bill paid, we save about $135 a month, so Im good with that. I should be back to ordering and parts running by July.

    Tomorrow Im going to start welding practice. Up till now my son-in-law has done all the welding. I have tacked a few things, and done a little welding, but Im going to get serious now. Im not trying to run him off, but he has his own life, and I hate waiting or depending on other people. The goal is to get good enough that when I start the Ford, I can weld it myself. Im going to start with some thin stuff (16ga) that I made a battery tray out of. Then Ill weld the tray. I eventually want to weld up the radio hole someone put in the dash, with what appears to have been a screwdriver or an axe.

    1st picture-clutch line. Ill run a small flex line between the hard line and the slave cylinder. You can see the brake line is short. Im going to split it under the cross member and put in a junction.
    2nd picture-fuel lines. It has a -8 AN bulkhead through the floor, Ill make a flex line, and it will connect to the -8 in the picture, which goes to the fuel block, which has two -6 line out. I dont need two, but you never know. I like options.
    3rd picture-driver side brake lines and the combination valve. I like this location. Im still working on the lines for the rear.
    4th picture- more lines. I like the lines straight and clean. Im also going to do this technique with the hoses, sort of. Ill use tubing, and only use hoses for the ends. It should be very clean. The wires will be neatly laid along the fender. Im thinking of trying to put them under it, instead of on top where I did have it. It would be cleaner.
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    Last edited by drummerdad; 3 Weeks Ago at 01:44 PM. Reason: I cant spell

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    The Druid City
    Posts
    14,774
    Country Flag: United States
    Moving right along!

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    sw Kansas
    Posts
    1,198
    Country Flag: United States
    If you're going to do more projects, I would strongly encourage you to get a good hydraulic flaring tool. I bought a Mastercool. I see Eastwood sells a clone for $289. It will do most everything and make you look good while doing it.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
    If you're going to do more projects, I would strongly encourage you to get a good hydraulic flaring tool. I bought a Mastercool. I see Eastwood sells a clone for $289. It will do most everything and make you look good while doing it.
    I considered that. I think it was that exact tool. I watched some videos and everything. A friend at work let me borrow his 3/16" hand flaring tool, which is also from eastwood, and it works great. Im actually going to go back and buy one later to have. After this truck is done, Ill only need it for repairs and replacements. The ford has new pre-bent steel lines that I replaced around Christmas and I dont plan on getting crazy with it. I also have the other universal flaring tool set. I bought it because we decided to go with 1/4" line to feed the rear brakes. Its a bit cumbersome. I like the small one, and Im getting pretty good with it.

    All the other lines are AN, and we have the flaring tool and benders at work for those.

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    Worked in the garage today. I got the clutch in. I cant finish, because I need a throw out bearing. I did a little welding also. Stephen had started welding a battery try for me. I laid it out, cut it and bent it up. He tig welded it at first. When I put it where I wanted it, it hit the tire. So I shortened it up, and welded it myself in the garage this morning. I think it turned out good. Ill have to drill a few more holes for mounting, and paint it before calling it done. I also made a support from the old battery support. I might modify the other as well. It will need some type of support on the inside also. Just a few little things, but its progress.
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  12. #72
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Jefferson City, MO
    Posts
    160
    Will you create a shroud to protect it from road debris and water from the tire? Also, can you reach the posts (for jump starts) with the front sheetmetal in place, or will you add remote posts?

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by Peanut1959 View Post
    Will you create a shroud to protect it from road debris and water from the tire? Also, can you reach the posts (for jump starts) with the front sheetmetal in place, or will you add remote posts?
    I hadnt planned on a shroud, but I will add a hold down across the top. The optimas are pretty tough, so it wont be damaged. I also dont plan on driving it much in adverse weather. I can reach the terminals through the wheel opening, but the Ron Francis wiring kit has a battery hot terminal that will probably stay inside the engine compartment.

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    4
    Cool truck

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    Thank you.

    Ive been playing around with inner fender skirts. I started by relieving the originals to see what I had left, and it wasnt much. It hits the A-arm and upper shock tower, and the battery after relocation and because this suspension narrows the track width by quite a bit, it hits the tire at full lock where the factory solid axle had a shock tower that came through into the engine bay. So, I decided to look into making some on my own. I bought a sheet of 16ga steel, and some foam board and played around today a little. I like the shape, and it gives me plenty of room. Now I just have to figure out how to transfer these shapes to steel, and make it work.


    There is a sharpie line on the foam board. This is an angle change, and it will be a seam when I make it. Im not sure if Ill weld it, or make a flange and bolt it. It will probably be bolted, because the skirt would be difficult to get in if its a single piece. Ill look into it.

    Also the section where the skirt meets the fender will be turned down and through bolted. I think this will look cleaner.

    For some reason, I cant upload pictures. This is my third attempt. Ill try again later.



  16. #76
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    Its acting weird. I tried uploading these several times. I hope this works.
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  17. #77
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    sw Kansas
    Posts
    1,198
    Country Flag: United States
    That will be good. If you have access to a bead roller, you might do something artsy.

  18. #78
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
    That will be good. If you have access to a bead roller, you might do something artsy.

    Actually I do. I have rolled beads in aluminum before, and it was okay. I might play around with it little and see what I can do. Im not skilled enough yet to make something really nice, but maybe I can avoid it being plain.

  19. #79
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    I tried the bead roller at work, and it doesnt do well with the 16ga metal. Ill do without it.

    I got the first part (of 4 parts) done on the inner fenders. Ill work on the second part this week, maybe monday of tuesday. The inner fenders have to be split into two parts to get them in. Ill do something around the a-arms later. Maybe some rubber, or even a mini wheel tub of sorts. Im not sure.



    Im happy with this part. After I get the driver side done, Ill remove the fender, and install the passenger side....and do this all over again on that side. Fun fun fun.

    Im having trouble uploading pictures lately. Ill try again later. Sorry.




  20. #80
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    80
    Finally got the upload feature to cooperate. Here are the pictures.
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